Good evening. I would like to begin by saying I'm new to this type of creativity. I'm involved in a project involving designing a beam grid that has horizontal and vertical lights. Let's assume the frame is 8'x8' square, but the vertical beams shooting down (or vice versa up), would only be from the exact middle out 8.5" each way and the horizonal beams would be from the middle height and extend up and down 10" from the middle up and the same dimensions down. In the last day, I obtained a Arudino Uno board and the Adafruit 5mm IR break beams. By powering the board with a 5v power adapter, I was able to extend the break beams to approximately 50", instead of the known 20". But I really need to extend it to the 8' mark. I have read the Arudino Uno board can accept up to 20v, but if I increate the voltage by obtaining an adjustable power supply and allow 20v to flow, will it allow more power to the beams to stretch further? If the answer is no, what other laser beams would you recommend instead? Thanks.
Thr Uno runs on 5V and can the output pins can output only 5V. The 5V comes from the USB connection or from an on board 5V voltage regulator that is supplied from the power jack or the Vin pin. The maximum practical voltage to the power jack or Vin is around 12V. The amount of current that the onboard regulator can supply is limited and depends on the supply voltage. The higher the voltage the less the current that can be supplied before the regulator overheats and shuts down (best case) or burns up.
If you need to increase the voltage and/or current, use a transistor to switch the higher curren/voltage.
If you want better help, show us exactly what you have and how you are using it.
The Arduino boards need 5V. The regulator on the board can tolerate up to 20V. For a while. All of that excess voltage has to be dissipated somewhere as heat and the regulator is not heatsinked. Power the Arduino with 20V for a few hours, then you will replace it because it's toast.
If you provide a block diagram (ideally a schematic) of what you are doing you will get more responses.
Use a passive ir sensor, most are good off the shelf for 12 metres and have relay output.
220 and 12v versions available for a few dollars complete on any online shop.
Ok. To better define what I'm trying to accomplish, here is what the design is. I am part of a team who train baseball/softball umpires for youth sports, primarily Little League. When we have a plate umpire training (calling balls and strikes behind the plate), we use a pitching machine to throw the balls and have the trainee call the pitch, once the ball has been received by the catcher. The vertical part of the strike zone (armpits to top of knees) change with each batter but the horizonal part (17" width of home plate) is static throughout. We have a full size player cutout we place next to plate to give the umpire the vertical zone. Our idea is to build a 8'x8' frame and have beams aligned directly over the plate, covering 17" spread, spaced 2.5" apart. Due to the sensitivity of the receiver to sunlight, it would be mounted on the top rail pointed down and the sensor itself would be capped with a piece of plastic pipe to reduce the amount of sunshine hitting it. The side to side beams would be covering a yet to be determined area of approximately 28" (armpits to top of knees). Our plan is if a pitched ball breaks both the vertical and horizontal beams, it indicates it was in the strike zone and we would program the board to send a signal to light up a green bulb. If the pitched ball only broke a vertical beam (meaning over plate but too high or too low), a signal would be sent to light up a yellow bulb. If the pitched ball broke only a horizontal beam, it would indicate, it would mean the ball was within the batter's zone but not over the plate (either too far inside or too far outside). These bulbs would be to the side and behind the umpire training and when he calls the pitch (either a strike or ball), the trainer would use the light to either validate the trainee's decision or discuss the positioning behind the plate to better see the pitch. Our plan is to use this during clinics, outside at the fields and usually in the bull pen area. We have electrical availbility and would build this for 110 current connection. In a 8 hour field session, I estimate it would be used 4 to 5 hours, with the remaining time working on base mechanics. I received the Arudino UNO board and accessories yesterday and started investigating it. I added length to the receiver sensor and set everything up on the dining table. The transmitter was secured on one end corner, with the board next to it. The board was powered by a 5v AC power adapter. I had good signal between the transmitter/receiver up to about 48", but then it started wavering a bit. I'm open for any suggestions, recommendations or help. While this excercise has been extremely fun and interesting, I'm entering a realm that is foreign to me. I am retired from executive management over 47 years, which involved asking people to bring me ideas and solutions, not come with them. I was using the Arudino Uno board and IR Break Beams simply due to the cost and ease of programming. Someone mentioned lasers, which are an option. This structiure would be setup right in front of the plate, so any laser beams would be aimed at the opposite board and end there. Both the catcher and umpire in training are behind the plate. I tried to attach a diagram of what my vision is and it said new members couldn't attach anything. Suggestions on how to let you see it?
This is the exact way I set up the sensors. Only differences are I spliced in 8' of wireing on the 2 wire sensor and I powered it with a 5v AC adapter.
The IR LEDs can have their own power supply but you have to stay within their maximum ratings.
Previously USB powered? That shouldn't have made a difference unless the LEDs are "pulling down" the 5V USB power.
20V and powering the LEDs through the on-board regulator might be worse! The more voltage you "drop across" the regulator and the more current through it, the hotter it gets. Dropping 20V to 5V means 15V across the voltage regulator, and the regulator is dissipating more power (and heat) than anything else.
We had to design a frame that allowed it to be outside of any chance of being hit by the pitched ball. So, and 8x8 frame puts each side outside of the batter's boxes on each side of the plate. Same thing with top and bottom. So, the sensors are mounted to frame, which creates the 8' distances side to side and top to bottom. If this is too long to shoot a IR break beam, we would have to see what other options there would be, that didn't rise the cost to make it too high. Hope this makes sense. Thanks
Sorry. I confused you since I was confused. In my test here at the house, the IR break beam was losing connection to the receiver as it traveled. The manfacturer said the beam was good for 20" at 3v. When I amped it up to 5v, I had a good beam to receiver at 50". The 8' high and wide frame is required to get it outside of the boxes on each side and we don't want to put studs in closer, at this time if we can find a solution to have the beams or lasers travel from end to end (96"). Today, I put a 12v power supply to the board and it only gave me about another foot. I also think I would have problems with the transmitter and receivers connecting to each other and we would constantly be having to adjust them to hopefully get the aligned to each other. So, n the end, I don't think the IR Break Beam is the answer. I've now looking at the lasers. If you have knowledge, will a Class 2 laser travel 8' and connect to a receiver without an issue? I looked at some lasers and receivers that work with the Arudino Uno board. Shouldn't they work the same way and with a ball enters and interrupts each one or two beams, we could program it to flash a light accordingly? Apologize for all the questions but my knowledge of this type of equipment is void to me. But very interesting also.
Increasing the supply voltage to 20V will not increase your range.
All the components you are using have a voltage rating.
The UNO works at 5V, the IR devices are also 5V and you seem to have reached their limit of operation.
What you also need to consider is the spread of the IR beam, those IR emitters have domed lenses so are not providing a pencil thin parallel beam.
To provide the range, response and precision you will most possibly be looking at quite an expensive commercial/industrial sensor beam system.
After learning from everyone over the past two days, I realized that the break beam sensors are not the answer to my projects. After further research, I'm moving my direction over to using laser beams (KY008) to provide the "wall" I need for the project. I've built a frame to start testing everything on and have attached 4 laser beams to it (2 shooting vertical and 2 shooting horizontal). While I do have the lasers wired to the breadboard, I'm looking for a schematic or line drawing so I can verify I have it hooked up correctly. I searched Google and the websitess with the search phrase "Hooking up multiple KY008 lasers" and nothing comes back to what I'm looking for. Can anyone provide me information or direction on the path to getting the proper info? Thanks.
I am confused by all your writing about a "beam" of first IR light and now laser. You never define the width of your beam. An IR 'beam" will be wider than a laser "beam". so how will a laser benefit your design. For a frame you mention, you might need several hundred laser "beams" to cover the area.
Again, sorry to confuse you. New that this type of action and misspeak in terms and such. In my first attempt, I used IR breakbeams but I need the distance to be 96" apart. I was able to get a strong signal to about 50" and then it dropped off. Was advised to look at lasers then. I bought some cheap lasers and receivers and set them up in the garage and it worked well. I had read that being out in the normal sunlight would be a completely different story and tried it today. It works but in bright daylight, it might not work. I was told by someone to shield the receiver and it might make it dark enough. I was thinking about getting a 1 1/2" to 2" plus piece of plastic pipe and spray paint it black (inside the tube) and mount it over the receiver. Then test the laser again in the backyard to see if makes a large differene. If so, then move forward. I appreciate the assistance. Thanks.
The more voltage you "drop across" the regulator and the more current through it, the hotter it gets. Dropping 20V to 5V means 15V across the voltage regulator, and the regulator is dissipating more power (and heat) than anything else.