According to the specifications it's good for 5V 10A and it has Short circuit protection, Over load protection, Over temperature protection, Over voltage protection
I want to use it to convert 12V from my motorcycle to 5V for LED stripes. 90% of the time my LED stripes will use probably less than 20W. But it might be possible that my LEDs will use maybe 60W or even 70W for a few seconds (flashing white light or full on white light).
Is this likely a problem with this converter? I guess that it's important that this thing does not get too hot for extended time. But I guess a few seconds with 120% or 150% load might be ok. What do you think?
Would it make it better if I would add a big capacitor (i.e. 4,700uF) on the output?
Do you know if that is a good brand ?
Do you know if the specifications make any sense at all ?
Do you know if there are really good quality capacitors inside ?
Do you know if it has been tested by an independent organization ?
Do you know the current curve ? that shows how it behaves when too much current is drawn ?
Do you know how hot it gets for high currents ?
Do you know if the module you buy is indeed that brand or a counterfeit ?
If you answer "no" to all these questions, you better buy the double of what you need (2 * 70). That means a 150 Watt module.
If you answer "yes" to all these questions, then a 100 Watt module is also okay.
Koepel:
Do you know if that is a good brand ?
Do you know if the specifications make any sense at all ?
Do you know if there are really good quality capacitors inside ?
Do you know if it has been tested by an independent organization ?
Do you know the current curve ? that shows how it behaves when too much current is drawn ?
Do you know how hot it gets for high currents ?
Do you know if the module you buy is indeed that brand or a counterfeit ?
If you answer "no" to all these questions, you better buy the double of what you need (2 * 70). That means a 150 Watt module.
If you answer "yes" to all these questions, then a 100 Watt module is also okay.
Thanks for your long answer. You know, I could have just looked at the specification and read what is max and accept that it is max. It's easy to do that.
But I am sure I am not the first person in this world who thinks about using something above the stated max. I know for some parts this is not a big deal for a few seconds and for other parts it's instant death.
So I was kind of looking for answers like:
a) I did this a couple of times and never had any problems.
b) It died right away.
I got that DC DC converter because it was easy to order and cheap. If it dies no big problem, it does not power a life supporting machine. If I order a high quality part online from Europe or the USA I pay probably 10 times as much also because of the high shipping cost.
A good example for using parts above the specifications are ESCs in racing quads. Often they are used for 50% more than the nominal current but just for peaks...
I don't know if someone on this forum has actually used that specific DC-DC converter.
Let me explain what I was trying to say:
When Bosch makes a sensor and writes in the datasheet that it is ±3% accurate, then you can assume that is correct. When you need such a sensor, you have to be sure to buy it from a normal seller, like Mouser, Farnell, Digikey, or you might end up with a counterfeit.
When you see a DC-DC module on Ebay / Banggood / AliExpress, the specifications are often wrong. It might work for a week when used according to the specification. Or it might blow as soon as you power it without load. The rule of thumb (my rule of thumb) is to use the DC-DC converters and power supplies and so on for only up to 50% of what is specified.
When buying a good multimeter, it is important that they are according to a certain standard, but also that an independent organization has tested it. That is the only way to be sure.
Therefor the reliability of the brand is important. They might use good quality components, but they don't show a lot of information on their website. There is not even a curve to show what it does when too much current is drawn. Not even a curve for the efficiency. That kind of information is important to answer your question. Since we don't know that, I would use the 50% rule of thumb and hope for the best.
So I was kind of looking for answers like:
a) I did this a couple of times and never had any problems.
b) It died right away.
There are thousands of different DC-DC converters. And, most of use try not to overload whatever we have.
it has Short circuit protection, Over load protection, Over temperature protection, Over voltage protection
Then the question is, what happens when it's over-stressed? Does it shut off? Do you have to power it off, and then let it cool down before it will re-start? Etc.? You'll have to find out the hard way...
I want to use it to convert 12V from my motorcycle to 5V for LED stripes. 90% of the time my LED stripes will use probably less than 20W. But it might be possible that my LEDs will use maybe 60W or even 70W for a few seconds (flashing white light or full on white light).
Are these lights "important"? Brake lights, etc? Or, are you taking it to a show where it would be an embarrassing "disaster" if they fail or if they are flaky?
You're obviously taking a risk, and that's no problem as long as you can accept the consequences if it goes the wrong way. But, you're a motorcycle rider so I assume risk doesn't bother you!
Its common for no name Dc - Dc converters from China that even if you do run them within their maximum ratings, they get very hot , especially the inductor and the switcher chip.
Normally, if you overload a no name type converter, it will simply stop regulating, and the output voltage will drop.
The better ones will shut down either from the overload or from overheat.
Its better to buy one that has double the capacity that you need if you want reliability.
According to the specifications it's good for 5V 10A and it has Short circuit protection, Over load protection, Over temperature protection, Over voltage protection
think?
Built-in over/under voltage input, overload, overhead, and short circuit full protection
Would it make it better if I would add a big capacitor (i.e. 4,700uF) on the output?
The answer is in specification, converter will shut down and you need to turn power off/on to activate it. Overload protestion oftem is time dependet.
Capacitor will make worse, 4,700uF for 10A is not much, but if you add 10 times more = 4700uF that can cause overload by capacitor itself.
ted:
The answer is in specification, converter will shut down and you need to turn power off/on to activate it. Overload protestion oftem is time dependet.
Capacitor will make worse, 4,700uF for 10A is not much, but if you add 10 times more = 4700uF that can cause overload by capacitor itself.
Thanks, I suspected that with the capacitor, this is why I asked.
I will test that thing on the bench and look how it works and how hot it gets.
So I was kind of looking for answers like:
a) I did this a couple of times and never had any problems.
b) It died right away.
If anyone overloads anything electronically for a few seconds and then says it is no problem knows very little about electronics and reliability.
While damage might not be instantly observable it has occoured. It might manifest itself as an increased probability of early failure say a 2% increase in failure over three years, which is hard to detect for a hobbyist, and impossible to test if you only have one unit.
So stop thinking there has been no damage and think more about what is acceptable damage.
Edgar1:
Is this likely a problem with this converter? I guess that it's important that this thing does not get too hot for extended time. But I guess a few seconds with 120% or 150% load might be ok. What do you think?
If lives don't depend on it, or somebody's well-being doesn't depend on it --- ie. nobody is going to get hurt or significantly inconvenienced, then it's fine...... try it out, but always make a note that it is going over the limit, even for a few seconds. Otherwise, if it fails sometime down the track, and nobody records notes or history of what is being done, then this is how things start to go astray.
Sometimes, just got to set the boundaries. Eg.... if there's a manufacturer specified limit, then stick to it.... ie. don't exceed it at ANY time. The other thing is.... if possible, avoid working at or near the max limits. Obviously, there are always 'exceptions' that can be made..... such as, if there is no choice but to go with whatever you have. So....... sure, we can always do something ..... depending on circumstances. This is all assuming unmodified (stock) component.
If the regulator is yours, then whatever you want to do with it is acceptable, by definition. Plug it into the wall and short the output if you want. If you mean, will there be any degradation if you exceed the "absolute maximum" ratings, then yes there will be.
