Greetings!
I try to run different LEDs on a D1 board but I see the D15 and D3 connections are connected
Both D14 and D4 are connected
D13 and D5 ......
As written on the board.
That is, when I turn to pin D7, pin D11 will also light up
The question I want to ask is is there a way to treat each connection individually?
Thank you!
Exactly which board have you got as I don't recognise
WeMos D1 R2 WiFi uno based on ESP8266
it's a rubbish board. 
Yes, because the ESP-12 module it contains, has nowhere near as many GPIO as the Arduino (ATmega328), a number of connections are duplicated or absent. For example, only A0 exists among the analog.
Frankly, it is a pretty complete waste of time, compatible with very little. 
Please do not refer to it in any way a a "UNO" - that would be the most mendacious of advertising! 
And be careful running LEDs as the 3.3 V pins are capable of far less current than an Arduino though the same resistors at the much lower voltage will probably take care of that.
You are so professional!
Certainly - every word - a gem!
(Right now this is what I have, and maybe precisely because it's junk I can learn basic concepts that I would not have had to mess with if not .....)
Anyway, is there a way to treat each pin on its own?
I believe every beginning manufacturer does not need a lot of IQ for wasting production of several pins with the same connection? This is definitely puzzling!
Maybe there is still a solution on how to access each personal pin?
post Scriptum. Which board includes WIFI do you recommend I buy?
Thank you so much for your kindness and dedication of such matter-of-fact attention !!!
No, because they are as you say, simply connected together!
The WeMOS D1 Mini is the basic form of the same ESP8266 - cheap and practical. All useful pins are brought out. (The NodeMCU appears to have more available pins, but they have specific functionality, you cannot really use them as GPIO.)
The ESP-01(S) has very few GPIO pins (four actually) available but is still extremely useful.
1 Like
Thank you
I really appreciate your kindness
By the way, even in this there is only one analog pin
Or Arduino Mega R3 I see that it has a lot of pins
But its price in the sky .... almost like fuel ......
Anyway again thank you very much
Frankly, I do not consider the Mega 2560 very useful at all.
It has more I/O pins, more RAM and more flash code space (and extra hardware serial ports if you actually need them), but is - like the UNO - in a clumsy format and certainly very expensive.
I/O can be added to an ESP8266 using "port expanders" which also distribute that I/O over a wider area, and its other capabilities substantially exceed the Mega 2560.
Under $20 at Walmart for a mega 2560 is to you "very expensive"?
Walmart is quite a fair distance from me (perhaps fortunately, from what is seen on the oft-posted videos!).
For the same price, you should be able to get between eight and ten WeMOS D1 Minis.
Distance? I order online. Walmart will refund instantly if I have an issue with ANYTHING I've puchased. Who drives with $6 diesel?
The small CPU's are better than the Mega in all but one respect. I have got the required hardware to m,odularize the Mega. Moving to an even smaller platform doesn't help if I still need 70+ screw terminals for connection.
Yes, I can work out the details for other CPU's as I have for the Mega, but that NRE is past and without strong needs for something the Mega doesn't have (I admit built in bluetooth & WiFi is something I want) there's no point in reengineering a sufficiently-solved issue.
At this point the entire Mega, shield and PDB all form a solid core that can be used in a variety of projects as a drop in controller. Everything attaches with screws and nothing needing soldering or crimping. Makes field installs easy since all you need is strippers and a screwdriver.
My interest in Arduino is NOT as a "proof of principle" or a one shot solution but with an eye to being able to build many products from a common core. Something that can be rapidly assembled by lower skill assemblers and shipped as a complete item.
I understand that there are geniuses here in controller systems and electronics.
Maybe someone can help me with the original question I asked here?
I need to run on the above D1 more than 4 circuits, the options I thought are
Or let 2 Arduino talk to each other, I've never experienced that
or:
If anyone can guide me (this idea is better for me because that way I can learn new things and also have other beginners like me - a very useful tool for many different channels)
The idea I imagine is: to build a 'ladder' circuit perhaps by transistors, that when the Arduino wants to turn to circuit number 2 for example pin X gives 2 beats, then pin Y gives an instruction to turn the circuit on or off.
(Actually I think every pre-computer electronic game and children's game was built with such a program. Would you please suggest how I could build such a thing in simple words?)
OK, having accepted that the imitation "UNO" with the ESP8266 is not very practical, what can we do? Part of the impracticality is the low (3.3) logic voltage and current driving capability.
I think you will need to use (purchase) a LED driver. Let's start by specifying just how many LEDs and of what type you want to control, and what else you might want to connect?
From where did you buy the WeMOS D1?
I have a weakness for mornings, I have bought in recent years owners of Express, BangGood or local stores 8 WeMOS D1
I'm attaching a picture,
can't remember where I bought it from.
The background is:
I grow vegetables at home on a hydroponic system that I assembled myself. Everything works by a 24 hour timer in a 15 minute division, but if I can be more accurate and with the help of Arduino and control by sensors I should get better results and also save on expenses.
By the calculation I need 4 circuits for fans, heating, light and water pump and another 4 places for at least basic sensors, temperature, humidity, light sensor, and water level sensor.
I was able to activate the circuits with a relay and a photoelectric switch according to the instructions here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1i7s1xP6av8
Now in the heart of the sensors I am stuck because I have no more free ports.
I was thinking about the possibility of mounting the sensors on another WeMOS D1, and it will send data to the server, and according to the information on the server the pins will work, but even though it's the simplest, I think it's like using a sophisticated anti-fly missile instead of an analog 'bat' ....
You can think of connecting 2 boards, or assembling a processor that will run circuits according to the scale, I think they call it shift register
But I am sure that instead of scratching my left ear with my right hand ... the simple solution will come from you or one of the geniuses like you here in the forum with your rich knowledge and special love to help others and contribute to the wisdom of the whole world.
Interesting board there - I can't see the resistors - are they on the other side?
In general, I think you need this:
thank you very much!!!
What's the name of this board?
Regarding the resistors -
Truth be told, I'm groping for the experiment and will be. I have tried several times to learn about the basics of electronics and resistors and when I come to Ohm's law or a binary count suddenly something else is more interesting .......in the best case scenario.... 
Anyway in this board I use the LED as a resistor.
Did you click on it?
It is a type called a "port expander" - you connect it to the (two) I²C pins on the ESP and it gives you 16 (in this version, there are other sorts) I/O pins.
You can connect multiple I²C devices to the same pins on the ESP as long as they each have a different address and there are many different I²C devices available. The address selectors are on the other side of that board as you can see in the Aliexpress item.
Note that port expander can only switch outputs LOW, so you need to connect them to "active low" relay modules. Now ...
No.
Absolutely not. 
Hahaha I didn't think about the option to click on the picture
Thank you
For being interested, for the recommendations and the backing!!!
It is interesting to meet sweet and kind people
You must be a very special person
Thank you
Wait, sorry, just one question (a bit stupid question.....)
If the LED lowers the voltage in a series circuit, why is it so important to also insert a resistor?
Because a diode (most any type), as a current mode device, will attempt to act as a dead short, and will burn itself out if not provided with some method to limit its current to a safe level.
Most common LEDs happily run on 20mA or 50Ω for every volt of drop.
Assume the supply, Vs = 5V, and the LED forward voltage, Vf is, say, 1.9V. The drop is then Vs - Vf or 5V - 1.9V or 3.1V. Times 50Ω gives 3.1 x 50 or 155Ω. Round to the nearest 5% standard value, 150Ω (Brn, Grn, Brn).
Check resistor wattage. P = I^2 x R = .0004A x 150Ω = .06W, so an 1/8W (.125W) resistor will work with 100% power safety margin.
Such a pleasant explanation, I read it again and again and it adds a lot of wisdom to me
Thank you!
I would be very happy if you could strip the last line a little more, I feel that there is an important and useful treasure here, please - maybe it will help me understand a little more why the role of the resistors is so important