I have now sat down with a couple of engineers and they could help me. The wiring diagrams which are in the appendix are false. This chematic´s would damage your Arduino !!!

If you are interested in the new chematic, Software pls send me a PM.

Dear community.

I and my friends are bored most of the time.
So we thought about what we should do.
Maybe Paintball would be cool or ?
But we are not eigthteen…

So we decided to build our own LaserTag System !
It’s like paintball, only there is no danger of getting dirty and you dont have to fear of being hit by a high-speed flying object !
So its perfect for us.

Its called LaserTag ,Yes !
But that has nothing to do with lasers.
LaserTag use a Infrared Beam.Which is not dangerous for your eye´s.

Id designed my own Atmega328p based LaserTag Board.(56Khz transmission)
I beg that someone check my chematics for accuracy.
With the Arduino Bootloader normal sketches should work.
You will need a ISP or JTAG programmer,MK-II JTAGICE-3 e.t.c.

I use James Haydons Source Code of his LaserTag Game.Warning ! The diagrams in his Fork are not finished !
He defined in his Code a piezo Speaker and a LCD Display which is not shown on his Fritzing diagram.

Here a Photo were i d build his project.

Click the picture to view it in a bigger window.

I only added a better Infrared LED and a Muzzle Flash.
And removed the LCD Display (defined in his Code) the Status LED and the Piezo Speaker.
The Goal is to build a Arduino Sketch compatible LaserTag System which fits in Softair or Nerf™ Gun.

The code is not finished yet, because id add a hardware feature to change the LEDs Power for indoor and outdoor.
Indoor you wont neet such power as outdoor.Outside you wont have those reflections from walls
you will have like playing inside.

Why i post this ?
I beg that someone check my chematics for accuracy.
(Id used Targer3001! which is free of charge for Conrad pcb-pool and distrelect User)

The MOSFETs used are IRLML2502PBF ´s.


-Why do you not design a LaserTag Shield ?
->You will need a very bright Infrared LED to achieve a high aim range.
Thus one Led consumes a lot of power.
In my Case i prefer to use a LD 274-3 because her beam angle of 10°.
The Arduinos Voltage regulator wont forgive you if you consume a Surge Current of 3 Amps.

-Why no Display ?
->When you are in a “combat” you dont have the time to look on a Display.I think a Display is non-essential.

-Why no Sound ?
->I will use a simple mechanical Piezo beeper connected to the muzzle Flash as “Sound”.Its cheaper.

-Why you wont use EAGLE ?
->Because i dont own EAGLE.I would use EAGLE, but i dont know how to use it.

-Your English is bad.Why ?
->I have a potato in my mouth.

I hope that some of them were inspired by this Project. So that a few build their own laser tag weapon.

Thanks in Advance.

328PTAG.T3000 (162 KB)

328PTAG.TIF (1.39 MB)


The best way to check a circuit is to either model it in something like LTSpice or build it on a breadboard, or solder it together either as a birds next or on veroboard, or if you are really confident go straight to PCB and then cut and strap

If a circuit looks fairly simple I usually use a breadboard or solder it together.

Thank you for your hint.

Id already try this chematic on a hole grid board.
I dont like Breadboarts because in my case the connections are mostly bad per pin.
If the MOSFET loses Ground ,i could write R.I.P on my MCU.
Sometimes I dont see some mistakes. I have just seen for example that I had forget to connect the feedback pin of the voltage regulator.(In the chematic, chematic is already reuploaded)

Thanks in Adventure

Solder it together then. Just watch out for dry joins.

BTW. Buy at least 2 of every item, as you will then have a spare if you damage one of them.