data log the analogRead(x) values by connecting one of the analog inputs of the data logging device to the output of the power supply board, but with a resistor that will keep the current below the max operating for the data logger, eg if you have programmed an uno with an SD card shield to log the analog input on the pin connected, see the max operating current for the uno in its spec sheet.
get a good number of samples, say leave it writing to an SD card all day. copy and paste your data into an spreadsheet and use the stats formulas to spot any surges/transient voltage spikes that have occurred. if its being rectified well enough and there is no decent spikes, well excluse the power supply and focus on the led circuit.
in this case, and If you are not getting a few naughty little buggers at the fringes of the bell curve of kinetic energy distribution that are damaging your circuit, im not sure exactly what your problem is, ( in my case its almost always because ive rushed the pin out and its not wired like i wrote in my book or the person who wrote the project guide has recommended, ive soldered two IC pins together that short the MCU, SOMETHING silly)
but ive attached photo of on of the component types i like for surge protection (range of this design, not the exact one i have attached a pic of) and they seem to be very popular
Able to recommend a better dealer of LEDs?
Cree for white. Lite-On for colored.
arduidiot:
data log the analogRead(x) values by connecting one of the analog inputs of the data logging device to the output of the power supply board, but with a resistor that will keep the current below the max operating for the data logger, eg if you have programmed an uno with an SD card shield to log the analog input on the pin connected, see the max operating current for the uno in its spec sheet.
get a good number of samples, say leave it writing to an SD card all day. copy and paste your data into an spreadsheet and use the stats formulas to spot any surges/transient voltage spikes that have occurred. if its being rectified well enough and there is no decent spikes, well excluse the power supply and focus on the led circuit.
in this case, and If you are not getting a few naughty little buggers at the fringes of the bell curve of kinetic energy distribution that are damaging your circuit, im not sure exactly what your problem is, ( in my case its almost always because ive rushed the pin out and its not wired like i wrote in my book or the person who wrote the project guide has recommended, ive soldered two IC pins together that short the MCU, SOMETHING silly)
but ive attached photo of on of the component types i like for surge protection (range of this design, not the exact one i have attached a pic of) and they seem to be very popular
Wouldn't I need to use some sort of potentiometer for this? If I was getting spikes beyond 5 volts, wouldn't that damage the analogue input pin? Or at the very least, would I ever get a reading above 5 volts? I think that's where its measuring range maxes out.
I also have access to an oscilloscope at a local fab lab, I could try and bring the project down there in the coming week and observe it for a while.
note that i said you must connect it to the analog input with an appropriate resistor inline to drop the analog input voltage to a safe level. if you are getting spikes, it will still spike but below 5 V with that resistor. so you simply calibrate the analog read data to reflect how large the voltage spike WOULD be if you had not have put the resistor there.
arduidiot:
at the fringes of the bell curve of kinetic energy distribution that are damaging your circuit,
What on earth does that mean? Total rubbish to talk of kinetic energy distribution in the context of electronics.
Data logging this will tell you nothing.
electrons in the charge cloud for the current in a circuit with resistance that should limit the voltage to a certain amount but occasionally it is possible to spike over. it was kind of a joke in that it should never happen to an extent it damages the circuit if everything is wired as you've calculated.
Are you talking about Johnson noise?
well im definately talking about noise! i dont know who the first bloke to write about it was to be honest!
but i do know it should never appreciably happen if your wiring match your figures.
So, update!
I have had one of the LEDs I purchased powered by an arduino for the last two weeks using one of the same 220Ohm resistors.
Conclusion: Definite and noticeable dimming after just two weeks of operation. It's a well ventilated and cool area, with a good power supply. I can't blame this on anything other than the supplier.
If anyone ever comes across "bright components" on eBay, I would think twice about purchasing from them. Their products have proven to be less than "top quality".