Of course, there is always the option of replacing the circuit breaker with one with higher amp rating. That depends on the rest of the wiring. What else is on the circuit breaker?
Paul
dlloyd:
If you're using the Arduino PID library but would like an AutoTune function, you might want to give QuickPID a try. I've only tested the AutoTune function with an RC filter having 0.1 to 20 sec time constant, but sometime in the future I intend to test this on a unique re-flow oven (just an idea at this point).
Thanks for this recommendation, I'll check it out. I may end up posting my code once I complete these modifications.
Paul_KD7HB:
Of course, there is always the option of replacing the circuit breaker with one with higher amp rating. That depends on the rest of the wiring. What else is on the circuit breaker?
Paul
The attached picture shows most of the circuitry. I believe the only things not shown on the diagram below are the microcontrollers, Uno and a raspberry pi. But when the solenoids, pumps, sensors, and controllers are running I think I will need about 3Amps. I usually could get this with my old set-up but was very close to the ceiling and tripped the breaker frequently.
A 15 amp breaker is entirely inadequate for an industrial project like you have. The breaker to my bedroom is a 15 amp breaker. That tells us you have #14 AWG wires going to the room. You need to have #12 and a 20 amp breaker.
In the mean time, pop out the 15 amp breaker, write down the manufacturer and model number and get e new breaker. They do wear out over time and use and will eventually open at much less current that in the beginning. Eventually they will not even hold closed. Yours may be old and may have been used as a switch!
Paul
I don't have time to read this whole thread right now.
If you SAY you are looking for a way to limit current draw, does that actually mean you are really looking for a way
to limit the heat generated or that failure to limit the heat would overload the current capability of your system ?
You realize that if you can measure the current the heater draws and measure the temperature, all you need to do
is put an SSR in series with the heater and turn it OFF when the current or heat gets too high and then poll the current and heat until it is low enough to turn the SSR back on. If you want to know HOW to monitor the heater
current I can tell you but don't want to waste your time if that's not what you want to do.
For a simple resistive load like this, you can easily cut the power in half by wiring in a suitably sized power rectifier.
For version 2 of your system, you might consider using a water heater element. They are widely available at most hardware stores in the U.S., inexpensive, and available in a variety of power levels. They utilize a standard screw-type mounting with a gasket, such that they can be easily replaced in a minute or two (once the tank has been emptied). They are made to withstand at least 75 psi, or roughly 5 bar.
S.
larryd:
If you put them in series you get 750 watts, 6.25 Amps.
No, 375W, 3.1A
Yes, you are correct.
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