How can I use a long led strip say 3-5 metres with a sound sensor with Arduino UNO?
I can buy any MOSFETS / Transistors , but I don't know how to use them and I am okayish with coding.
I want to make Sound reactive LED strip.
Thank you.
What kind of led strip?
There are single colour strips. You can fade/flash the whole strip using a transistor (specifically, a logic-level n-channel MOSFET).
There are RGB strips. You can fade, flash, change colour of the whole strip using 3 MOSFETs.
There are individually-adressable RGB strips. You can fade, flash, change colour and animate patterns by controlling each led individually (for some strips, groups of 3 LEDs). No MOSFETs needed.
So which type do you want?
PaulRB:
What kind of led strip?There are single colour strips. You can fade/flash the whole strip using a transistor (specifically, a logic-level n-channel MOSFET).
Yes the single colour strip which we can animate like fade, flash. Not the RGB one. I am going to buy that this week with some mosfets or transistors? I don't know which one of them to buy? Maybe you could help me with that?
I already have a 6V, 0.5A and 12V , 1A ; AC/ DC adapter for them and also, the sound sensor is with me.
Thanks in Advance!
You cannot animate the single colour strips. You can fade/flash the whole strip but you cannot control the LEDs individually. Single colour strips normally take a 12V supply. For 5m strip, the psu must supply 1A if it has 30 LEDs per metre, or 2A for 60 LEDs per metre.
For transistors, I would suggest irl520 (not irf520) or stp16nf06l. But there are many other suitable ones. You need n-channel MOSFET with, importantly, a logic-level gate, in a TO-220 package.
PaulRB:
You cannot animate the single colour strips. You can fade/flash the whole strip but you cannot control the LEDs individually. Single colour strips normally take a 12V supply. For 5m strip, the psu must supply 1A if it has 30 LEDs per metre, or 2A for 60 LEDs per metre.For transistors, I would suggest irl520 (not irf520) or stp16nf06l. But there are many other suitable ones. You need n-channel MOSFET with, importantly, a logic-level gate, in a TO-220 package.
Thanks for this info,
I also had one more question that I had a TIP122 Transistor Laying around , so can I use that without a Mosfet so I don't have to go to the shop ( which is very very far .away from my house )?
Yes, you can use a TIP122 with ~330 ohm base resistor for your 3-5meter strip.
But note that the TIP could get hot, and the LEDs won't be as bright.
Leo..
Wawa:
Yes, you can use a TIP122 with ~330 ohm base resistor for your 3-5meter strip.
But note that the TIP could get hot, and the LEDs won't be as bright.
Leo..
Alright, I'll continue with the TIP122, as soon as I get the resistor, I shall begin the project.
Thanks!
Anything between 220ohm and 1k will work for <= 2Amp strip current.
Connect the resistor between Arduino PWM pin and base.
Connect emitter to supply(-) and Arduino ground.
Connect strip to supply(+) and collector.
Leo..
Wawa:
Anything between 220ohm and 1k will work for <= 2Amp strip current.
Connect the resistor between Arduino PWM pin and base.
Connect emitter to supply(-) and Arduino ground.
Connect strip to supply(+) and collector.
Leo..
I have 60 LEDs / m and I'm using 2 metres,
So if 300 Leds take 2A
120 Leds will take 0.8 Amps.
And I've a few resistors which show 217/216 Ohms in My Voltmeter, So I hope They should work.
Which ones are more ideal, the ones which are near 1000 Ohms or the ones which are near 220 Ohms?
I have a few more and I will test them too.
Also, you said that The LEDs will be Dim and The Transistor will heat , I don't understand why, can you please explain?
Thanks!
Your 220R resistors might be better than 1K. They will help ensure the transistor is "saturated" which will help to reduce the heat and voltage drop.
Tip122 is an old design and not as good for this purpose as more modern MOSFET transistors. There will be a voltage drop across its collector and emitter pins of up to 2V. This means less voltage for the strip, making the LEDs dimmer, and dissipating heat in the transistor because power = volts X amps.
A MOSFET like the ones I described in post #1 will drop a much smaller voltage, only around 0.5V for irl520 and around 0.2V for stp16nl06l, leaving much more for the LEDs and dissipating much less heat in the transistor. But you must use a "logic-level" MOSFET, otherwise the strip might not light at all, or you might get the same heat/voltage drop issues as with the tip122.
The single colour 12volt strips I know draw 20mA per three LEDs, so 120 LEDs draw 0.8Amp.
The TIP needs a base current of about 1/250 of the colllector current for full saturation.
A 1k base resistor should just be enough base current (~3.5mA) for that 800mA collector current.
A TIP is not an ideal 'switch'. There is some volt drop across when 'on'.
That means that the strip will not get the full 12volt, and the drop across the transistor with the current through it heats it up.
800mA should just be ok on full power (about 0.6watt, or ~35C increase in temp).
Longer strips do need 'better' transistors (logic level mosfets).
Leo..
PaulRB:
Your 220R resistors might be better than 1K. They will help ensure the transistor is "saturated" which will help to reduce the heat and voltage drop.Tip122 is an old design and not as good for this purpose as more modern MOSFET transistors. There will be a voltage drop across its collector and emitter pins of up to 2V. This means less voltage for the strip, making the LEDs dimmer, and dissipating heat in the transistor because power = volts X amps.
A MOSFET like the ones I described in post #1 will drop a much smaller voltage, leaving much more for the LEDs and dissipating much less heat in the transistor. But you must use a "logic-level" MOSFET, otherwise the strip might not light at all, or you might get the same heat/voltage drop issues as with the tip122.
Wawa:
The single colour 12volt strips I know draw 20mA per three LEDs, so 120 LEDs draw 0.8Amp.The TIP needs a base current of about 1/250 of the colllector current for full saturation.
A 1k base resistor should just be enough base current (~3.5mA) for that 800mA collector current.A TIP is not an ideal 'switch'. There is some volt drop across when 'on'.
That means that the strip will not get the full 12volt, and the drop across the transistor with the current through it heats it up.
800mA should just be ok on full power (about 0.6watt, or ~35C increase in temp).
Longer strips do need 'better' transistors (logic level mosfets).
Leo..
Thanks, The next time I go the shop, I'll definitely get the Mosfet and the Transistor irl 520.
For now, Let's continue with TIP122 without any Mosfet, and let's see how does it go.
Thanks a lot For the great explanation Leo and Paul,
I shall post an update here what happens next and for the coding
nityoday:
I'll definitely get the Mosfet and the Transistor irl 520.
Irl520 is a MOSFET. It is a type of transistor and replaces your tip122.
If you cannot get stp16nf06l or equivalent, then get irl520 or equivalent. But make sure that what you get is a logic-level MOSFET, because not all MOSFETs are logic-level. Also make sure that what you buy is in a to-220 package, otherwise it will be difficult to solder or use on a breadboard.
PaulRB:
Irl520 is a MOSFET. It is a type of transistor and replaces your tip122.If you cannot get stp16nf06l or equivalent, then get irl520 or equivalent. But make sure that what you get is a logic-level MOSFET, because not all MOSFETs are logic-level. Also make sure that what you buy is in a to-220 package, otherwise it will be difficult to solder or use on a breadboard.
Sorry ,
and I'll make sure to buy the MOSFET which is a logic level one and fits in a breadboard.
Thanks for the info again 
PaulRB:
Irl520 is a MOSFET. It is a type of transistor and replaces your tip122.If you cannot get stp16nf06l or equivalent, then get irl520 or equivalent. But make sure that what you get is a logic-level MOSFET, because not all MOSFETs are logic-level. Also make sure that what you buy is in a to-220 package, otherwise it will be difficult to solder or use on a breadboard.
Hey my adapter of 12V has a DC jack in it, so can we directly put it in the Arduino Uno or I've to cut it to get the +ve and -ve wires?
nityoday:
Hey my adapter of 12V has a DC jack in it, so can we directly put it in the Arduino Uno or I've to cut it to get the +ve and -ve wires?
I would use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Areyourshop-5-5mm-2-5mm-Camera-Connectors/dp/B01CJE0ZLI
ieee488:
I would use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Areyourshop-5-5mm-2-5mm-Camera-Connectors/dp/B01CJE0ZLI
I don't have it currently, so let's continue by Cutting the wire, and I'll grab this connector thing too , when I go to the shop.
Thanks!