/* This is configured for Feather 32u4 LoRa */
int stepPin = 9; // Step pin
int dirPin = 10; // Step direction
int enable = 11;
void setup() {
pinMode(stepPin, OUTPUT);
pinMode(dirPin, OUTPUT);
//pinMode(enable, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(stepPin, LOW);
digitalWrite(dirPin, LOW);
//digitalWrite(enable, LOW);
}
void loop() {
digitalWrite(dirPin,HIGH); // Enables the motor to move in a particular direction
// Makes 200 pulses for making one full cycle rotation
for(int x = 0; x < 200; x++) {
digitalWrite(stepPin,HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(500);
digitalWrite(stepPin,LOW);
delayMicroseconds(500);
}
delay(1000); // One second delay
digitalWrite(dirPin,LOW); //Changes the rotations direction
// Makes 400 pulses for making two full cycle rotation
for(int x = 0; x < 400; x++) {
digitalWrite(stepPin,HIGH);
delayMicroseconds(500);
digitalWrite(stepPin,LOW);
delayMicroseconds(500);
}
delay(1000);
}
What is the winding current rating and resistance for the motor you have?
Note that the BigEasyDriver (A4988 version) is limited to 1 Ampere or less per winding without forced air cooling, so make sure that you have set the current limit to below that.
Finally, breadboards are for temporary experiments with logic circuitry and cannot support motor currents. The tracks will burn if you try, so either solder the motor and power connections to the driver board, or use suitable, soldered connectors.
Do you mean I should turn the potentiometer on the driver, or somehow reduce the output of the power supply? This has previously worked with this power supply.
It might be that the driver is fried, but I think it's weird that the motor still makes the noise/clicking sound.
If you look across the row, the rated winding current for that motor is 1.3A and the winding resistance is 2.5 Ohms.
It is absolutely essential to adjust the current limit of the A4988 to 1.0A or below, or it will overheat and shut down. There are a number of good tutorials on the web, and of course, the best resource is the motor driver IC data sheet.
However, the driver may well be partially functional, or dead. The very fastest way to destroy a stepper driver is with loose motor connections, or a burned breadboard. A single intermittent connection, if wiggled with the power on, will instantly destroy the driver.
Note: 1000 steps/second is too fast for many motors, without ramping up the speed.
Ok, thank you. I just find it weird that the motor still makes the sounds, and it's resisting if I try to turn it around (which is easy when it's powered off). But I guess this an still happen even if the driver is destroyed?
Tried with the increase in delay to delay(10), but the same results unfortunately. Will receive the new driver soon, so will test then. Then it will be easy to se if there is some error with the setup or not.
Nothing seemed to help, so I ended up bying new motor and a new driver, but I get the exact same problem. I have wired everything from skratch, and without using a breadboard. But still excact same issue.
I have attached a diagram of the wiring. The power supply is the same pictured above, 24V.
One thing I did, is that I hooked up a multimeter to read out the amps, and then adjusted the amp knob on the driver. It steadily increases towards about 0.7A, and after that the noise kicks in and the readings starts to jump up and down quickly.
It's a bit wonky, but they are soldered on the underside, and connected there. I have checked with the multimeter that the corresponding pins on the Arduino have conntact with dir and step on the driver.
