NE555 Timer Delay Module

Ok ive been trying to wire up these timer modules into my car for a chase light/sequential function. The car has 3 lights on each side. I can get them all to light up but trying to set the timer attenuator on the module does nothing. I have 5 of these modules, only need 2 per side but they all do the same thing so Im not sure if its a user error or possibly something up with the timers.

Also, even though the inner most light, far right in diagram doesnt go through the module, the last 2 lights blink at the same rate as the 1st,again timer set screw doesnt change anything.

Parts Im using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MH4GYX1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1st pic,The diagram Im following. I have followed just as it shows 2nd, what I have done

Sequential mod.jpg|1024x450

wiring 1.jpg|400x720

Here's OP's pix:

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Is this the desired sequence ?

  1. Immediately the brake pedal is depressed, the inner led should light. It stays on until the brake pedal is released.
  2. After a period of X seconds, the the center led lights. It also then stays on until the brake pedal is released.
  3. After a period of Y seconds, the the outer led lights. It then stays on until the brake pedal is released.

If that is the case, I would have expected Vcc of Relay 2 to be fed from CK of relay 1. There may be other problems.

Edit:

I've just read this from https://www.amazon.com.au/HiLetgo-Switch-Adjustable-Module-Second/dp/B01DK8NJNI

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Characteristics: 1. Connected to the power relay to 1-10s fixed cycle pull and disconnect. Specifically: to the relay for 12v power supply, the relay will immediately suck and relay output status: normally open and common conduction, normally closed and disconnected; until the delay 1-10s (can be adjusted), the release of the relay, At this moment, the state of the relay output is: Normally open and common open, normally closed and common conduct; As long as the module is not powered off, this state will keep and release with fixed cycle of 1-10s.

Well it is quite ambiguous. It is not clear if the "delay" (for example 10 seconds) is the delay before the relay is energized, or the period for which the relay remains energised after being switched on.

Hi, Welcome to the forum.

Please read the first post in any forum entitled how to use this forum. http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php/topic,148850.0.html .

That PCB has an LED on it. Does it light up when you connect power to the input terminals. Leave the power connected for at least 10seconds to see where the potentiometer is set.

Test just ONE unit.

Remove all the wiring from the output terminals. Connect 12V to the input terminals only and see what happens.

Do you hear the relay click?

Can you tell us your electronics, hardware experience?

Thanks....Tom... :)

Ok thanks for the replies.

yes the LED's do light up, I get clicks and I have tried 1 module at a time and they all do the same.

Whats suppose to happen is that when brakes are applied both sides and center lights will sequence 1 time. Parking lights work as normal. Blinkers will sequence starting with the inner light,middle, then outside.

but Im not getting them to sequence. Yesterday I had them all lighting up but the outer 2 bulbs blinked same rate as the inner. I tried turning the attenuator to adjust but nothing happens, they just blink the same speeds.Even trying other modules and 1 at a time, same results. If it was just 1 or 2 doing this then Id just figure a bad 1, but they all do it so it must be me.

I know this diagram works for my car since it was original made by a couple others for my specific car. Car in question here is 2004 Mustang Mach 1.

This is the guy that originally did it.

https://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/876090-diy-sequential-led-taillights-under-30-a.html

My electronics experience is mediocre. Nothing great but I get by normally by myself but get stumped with stuff like above. Ive had no issues using Arduino boards to make things. EX: Converted several joysticks to USB, completely gutting them and rewiring,various footswitches,led setups. Ive also made led readouts to show various PC/game related info and somewhat involved button boxes using Arduinos.

Hi, Have you adjusted the pots all the way form one end to the other, they are 10 turn pots? What are you using as your power supply? Tom.. :)

TomGeorge: Hi, Have you adjusted the pots all the way form one end to the other, they are 10 turn pots? What are you using as your power supply? Tom.. :)

They will turn continuously in either direction. Its just a flat head screw,not the usual plastic phillips type head pots. The power was the car.

I didnt really have a way to test off the car, besides this looked like a fairly simple diagram compared to some things Ive made before so I didnt really anticipate any issues.

Like I said, all lights almost work as they should. The issue is not being able to change the timings.

What Im finding odd is that instead of the lights sequencing they all will blink at the same speed no matter how much or which direction I turn the pots. Tail lights stay on as they should,brakes come on and stay as they should. But blinkers/hazards will all blink at the same rate.

The power LED on the module lights when power is connected. The 2nd led will blink and so will the power led when I activate the blinker. Both LED's flash at same exact rate. The relays are also clicking on/off at same rate as LED's.

Now for the diagram above I have been chatting with another guy that used the same diagram,parts and car type with proper results. I showed him the same pic as above and he says it should be working. SO we are both kinda stumped why the timing will not change. I figured both of us are just over looking something, I cant see all 5 being bad out of the box.

If it helps this is the cars wiring diagram.

NOTE: On the 2 outer lights(circled) they were originally 2 wire sockets, they were changed with FORD 3 wire sockets so as to function same the middle and outer.

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Oops, in that diagram, the circled lights are backwards, they are the inner lights and vice versa, the labeled inner are actually the outer.

Did you replace your flasher circuit with an electronic version?

Possible your blinkers are simply blinking too fast for the relay boards work correctly?

Hi, If you connect the relay input directly to the battery, do you get a delay? That is the relay clicks sometime after the connection is made?

How long is the first indicator light on for when you have it flashing. Indicator lights are usually only ON for about 1/2Second and OFF for 1/2Second.

With your circuit, the delay relays are only powered for that 1/2Second, so you cannot get a delay longer than the 1/2Second.

Tom... :)

Slumpert: Did you replace your flasher circuit with an electronic version?

Possible your blinkers are simply blinking too fast for the relay boards work correctly?

Best of my knowledge its already an electronic version. The repair manual diagram above has an electronic flasher in it.

Also the ones online that have the same car and did this same thing didnt change anything other than cutting out the single 2 wire socket on each side and replacing it with a 3 wire socket just like on the middle and outer lights.

I know Im probably just over looking something here, I just dont have any idea what would keep the pots from affecting the timing.

This is the guy Ive been chatting with trying to figure this out. He did what Im trying to do on basically the same car.

Mustang Sequential lights

TomGeorge: Hi, If you connect the relay input directly to the battery, do you get a delay? That is the relay clicks sometime after the connection is made?

How long is the first indicator light on for when you have it flashing. Indicator lights are usually only ON for about 1/2Second and OFF for 1/2Second.

With your circuit, the delay relays are only powered for that 1/2Second, so you cannot get a delay longer than the 1/2Second.

Tom... :)

I havent tried to the battery yet. I believe it is a very short delay, not even a second.

When the lights do flash, they are your typical turn signal speed.

As for the circuit, Im following the diagram above and the link in my last post is the same exact thing. He used that same diagram to do what Im trying.

Hi, Looking at the link, its a massive show and NO tell. There is no setup instructions that I can see.

You will have to set the delay times up on a battery, so you can see if you are adjusting it correctly. Connect to the battery and do not disconnect until relay has activated.

Tom... :)

TomGeorge: Hi, Looking at the link, its a massive show and NO tell. There is no setup instructions that I can see.

You will have to set the delay times up on a battery, so you can see if you are adjusting it correctly. Connect to the battery and do not disconnect until relay has activated.

Tom... :)

Yeah, its not a great how to on anything but I chatted with him and he gave me the diagram he used and its the one from my OP.

Here's what I tried.

Instead of using the car battery I have an old bench test power supply that simulates running 12v car electronics in the house.

Only connecting the VCC and GND wires to power the "Power" led lights immediately but the other module LED never lights nor any clicks. To be honest Im not really sure what I should expect. I tried to figure out how to trip the relay but relays are bit of weak spot for me.

What would be the simplest way to trip the relay for testing, not worried about testing with the blink function since I know I would need an electronic flasher? I assume just powering the module should eventually trip the relay.

BTW forgot to mention that the diagram shows LED's for lights but these are just your standard 3157 bulbs.

When you apply power to the relay module via Vcc and Ground, a timer starts. As soon as the timer expires (after 1 to 10 seconds depending on the setting of the potentiometer) the relay should be energized and the blue led should switch on. The relay will stay energized until power is removed.

You have understood that the potentiometer is multi turn precision type. It may require 20 turns to travel from its minimum to its maximum value. Once it reaches an extremity, you can still turn the screw but it simply doesn’t do anything. You may hear a very slight click on every rotation once it has reached the extremity, however.

6v6gt: When you apply power to the relay module via Vcc and Ground, a timer starts. As soon as the timer expires (after 1 to 10 seconds depending on the setting of the potentiometer) the relay should be energized and the blue led should switch on. The relay will stay energized until power is removed.

You have understood that the potentiometer is multi turn precision type. It may require 20 turns to travel from its minimum to its maximum value. Once it reaches an extremity, you can still turn the screw but it simply doesn’t do anything. You may here a very slight click on every rotation once it has reached the extremity, however.

Thanks. Yeah the blue led never lit nor any clicks. Im thinking they are bad.

Update.

Finally got 1 module to actually adjust. Takes several turns just to make any noticeable changes. Also to trigger the relay it needs more than 12v.

The 12v power supply I used wouldnt do it.

Straight to the car battery sitting around 12v after car not running all day made such a small click that if your finger wasnt on it you wouldnt know.

Start the car and relay has a good loud click,although another I tried had nothing ever trigger.

Can you post a schematic of your circuit before you added the relay modules that shows their normal wiring ?

Im thinking they are bad.

but they all do the same thing so Im not sure if its a user error or possibly something up with the timers.

I'm thinking it's the wiring. I think there is something not right. First of all the chance of getting a bad relay module is super slim to begin with . The chance of getting multiple bad modules is like nil. I don't like your schematic. Can you draw it differently so it is easier to see the wiring.

If I were you I would simply assume I made a big mistake and start over by putting everything back to the way it was and then add just one module. Have you taken any voltage measurements with a DMM ? If you can remove the relay modules from the schematic and show how it was before you added them that would help.