i was looking at the news recently, OK 1 hour ago and it passed my mind that i might need a ozone generator for water purification as the water system here is not safe enough. i was planning to use it for 200-1500 Liters a day for my family. Has anyone any working circuit/schematic for any ozone water purifier. i have got some UV lamps for air cleaning but i am short on water section :P.
i may look a little too upset and exagerating but i dont know i am just asking for advice.
i know but i am thinking that i must do something and buying one is to expensive for me. the water system is not good for general use and with this things going around i don't know.
Ozone is a toxic gas. You can get it from sparks that ionize the air. That is what your old circuit probably does. It would be difficult to collect this and then bubble it through the water without producing lots of wast ozone.
Have you thought about UV lights. Fish pond pumps use this to kill the agile. However any thing that you are relying on for human health will have to be tested properly before you use it. This would involve a lot of micro biology to ensure your purifier is working before you can trust it.
Do you know what sort of contaminates you have? Do you know what part you expect the Arduino to play?
Grumpy_Mike -> i want to bring it to 21 century with arduino as the brain to control the air pump with air flow the water valve&&pump the Frequency || PWM and possibly the amount of the O3 generated by measuring the intensity of the the blue gas generated via a optical filter or something. i was thinking of a pressure tank "O2 tank used in oxygen welding" for the air with the generator to create high electric field and when the concentration would be good enough to release it through some very small holes at the bottom of the water tank. or possibly a fine grid in the bottom of the water tank. and then the water release the diluted o3 for the night to come to normal levels or use a PH meter to check the acidity of the water or something like that. Will ask a friend of mine to help with the chemical part to check the levels etc.
For the UV part my brother is a Veterinarian and UV is good for air but not so much for water and only living bacteria and not viruses so that is a big drawback. O3 can dissociate in air in about half an hour from what i did found so a mechanical pump and air bubling the cleaned water can do the trick. thats why i am looking at 200-1500 liter to have time to verify it is safe to consume.
i was used ultrasonic and UAV and CL drop system in my tank, every 2 days the arduino put 2 drop of CL in the water tank
well my brother is chemical, and he told me about this system and how much i must put for 2000L of water
after 3 month my cat died from water poisoning, thanks god that's not me or someone from my family,
don't ever play in these things believe me, and for that all equipment is expansive, they make allot of tests over years to make 1 device
(No Modem’ 2 Sheets-Sheet 1.
N TESLA,
APPARATUS FOR PRODUCING OZONE.
No. 568,177. ‘Pa-tented Sept. _22, 1896.
Sept. _22, 1896 i was offset by one century bad math :P. that was not the point. the idea was that ehmmmm i might need one. searched amazon and they have china stuff for 100$ for small quantities and no output parameters ???? to be checked. Still searching hope to find something.
Interesting enough i found the mq131 on arduino playground that happens to be an O3 detector and a doc from google
"Lublin University of Technology, Faculty of Electrical Engineering and Informatics
Methods for measuring ozone concentration in ozone-treated
water" that shows the parameters:
Part Code: MQ131
Features
High Sensitivity
Detection Range: 10 ppb - 2 ppm O3
that's near the data that is bellow for safety. 2 of them can get the job done in 1 plus one. safety first :). So having and arduino around is usefull :).
Regards,
Timi
===============================
Although ozone was discovered in 1839 (by C. F.
Schonbein) and used for tap water treatment in the
Netherlands (1880’s), Nice (1907) and St. Petersburg
(1910) [3], the water ozonation process is still widely
investigated [4, 5]. This research was intensified after 1982,
when the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA)
recognized safe status for ozone usage in bottled water,
and later for liquid food and beverages processing (in
1997). The designing of optimal water ozonation system is
a complex task because of unique features of gaseous
ozone technology as chemical agent. Firstly, the ozone
generators can operate on either air (the output is 1-3%
ozone) or pure oxygen (the output is ca. 6 % ozone) – if the
corona-discharge or other high voltage-based generator is
used The UV or VUV generator outputs are insufficient
(0.5% ozone or less). So, the gaseous concentrations are
small.
Secondly, ozone is a highly unstable gas which cannot
be stored [6]. The half-life time of ozone in distilled water is
ca. 20 minutes [7] (in raw potable water ca. 10 min.), It
facilitates the problem of excess ozone utilization, but
enforces the installation of the ozone generator as integral
part of the ozonation plant [8, 9].
Thirdly, the solubility of ozone in water is rather low –
approximately 10 times lower than solubility of chlorine [10]
(for this reason, chlorine is still used; although the ozone
killing power of microorganisms is 400 times stronger than
chlorine). Therefore, a special chamber (bubble column, or
contact tank, or contactor) is necessary to allow diffusing
the ozone gas into water [11]. The ozone (mixed with the air
or oxygen from the generator) is injected into the water in
fine gas bubbles, and the turbulent mass transfer (by
diffusion) occurs. Higher temperatures mean decrease in
ozone solubility, but increase in reaction rates. Since the
bubbles contain a few percents of ozone, and the solubility
is low, the mass transfer and, in consequence, the reaction
rates are moderate, even for such powerful oxidant as
ozone (only fluoride exhibits higher oxidation potential) [10].
When the ozone is dissolved in water, there is a need of
measuring the ozone concentration at the inlet. The
concentration level of the applied ozone depends on the
kind of microorganisms or inorganic pollutants to be
destroyed, and on the required reduction ratio (expressed in
logarithmic scale). This level also depends on the designed
treatment time; the disinfection standards take into account
both factors (e.g. exposure to 4 ppmw ozone concentration
for 4 minutes is required) [5]. In practice, the applied ozone
exhibits concentrations from 0.2 ppmw to 10 ppmw; only
some processes in wafer technology require ultra-pure
water treated with 30 ppmw ozone.
A long-term exposure of the personnel to 0.2 ppmw is
harmful for lungs and respiratory tract. A person who
doesn’t work around ozone, may smell in air the
concentration 40 ?gO3/1 m3air (i.e. 18.7 ppmvO3, or 0.03
ppmwO3= 30 ppbwO3) – “sniff test”. Ca. 0.1 ppmv ozone is
present in the ambient air; so for workspace the US
Occupational Safety and Health Administration limits the
allowable ozone concentration to 0.1 ppmv. For these
reasons, the residual dissolved ozone in the exit water
should be checked and maintained at 5-50 ppbw; if
necessary, it should be decomposed using UV radiation of
ca. 250 nm wavelengths [6, 11].
almost everything to start getting the whole idea of what must be done
Plus all variables needed to be monitored, in order not to finish like AWOL Cat "lucky AWOL" and me for not going that path thanks to AWOL "he has the merits for crystallizing the idea of not using chemical other than ozone THANKS A LOT, REALLY thanks".
found these DEEP UV LEDs UVTOP245-FW- that are in 250nm wavelength that i think can be used to make sure that the ozone is dissociated. http://www.roithner-laser.com/led_deepuv.html
haven't found the price but now i know they exist out there in the market :). they should be expensive i think but who knows my expensive is relative to my small pocket :P.
the search was faster than i thought. i found out that Philips UV neon's are around 258nm wavelength and i can have them locally i have two for air already. so AWOL i think i will have a good chance in surviving and increasing the output and lowering the water tank capacity "cheaper". also bigger concentration of O3 i think if i have a strong UV light to eliminate O3 from the water after getting it purified. So guys correct me here "really i am not good at this part".
air pump
air presure sensor
temp sensor
cooling device to improve dilution of O3
UV neon for eliminating O3
O3 sensor
water pump
and of course Arduino to make these things stick together and work eventually.
Please feel free to pour ideas. maybe it will help someone. there are already plenty of guys selling these on internet without control parameters. i am just trying to make it with parameters so everyone can monitor and ADJUST TO HIMSELF.
IN the hurry of thinking i forgot that "narzan"has the cat that died. AWOL i am sorry i addressed you as the owner of the cat on my posts, my mistake :P. "narzan" thanks for the warning i learned a lot in the past hours :).
i am thinking that i must do something and buying one is to expensive for me. the water system is not good for general use and with this things going around i don't know.
i learned a lot in the past hours :).