Need help soldering Arduino Pro Mini with Accelerometer and Bluetooth Module

To start with, I am relatively new to all things involving electronics and programming. I need an accelerometer for a project I'm working on. I have got everything working and optimized for my project using an Arduino Uno, Sparkfun ADXL335 Accelerometer, and breadboard. But a breadboard prototype won't work for my project. I need something that is much smaller and wireless. For the wireless part, I have connected a HC-06 bluetooth module to my breadboard and got that working.

But to reduce the form size, I'll have to use an Arduino Pro Mini. The problem is that I have very little experience with soldering so I have no idea how to assemble everything together. It was a struggle for me just to solder headers onto the accelerometer. I want this thing as compact as possible so I feel like soldering female headers onto my Arduino Pro Mini and plugging everything in won't be ideal.

Here's what I have (and I have attached a picture):
Arduino Pro Mini
Sparkfun ADXL335 Accelerometer
HC-06 Bluetooth
Sparkfun FTDI Basic Breakout
LiPro 1000 mAh 3.7 V Battery
LiPro Basic Charger

Here are the connections I believe I'd have to make:
Accelerometer X,Y,Z to Arduino's A0,A1,A2 respectively
Accelerometer Vcc to Arduino's Vcc
Accelerometer Gnd to Arduino's Gnd
Bluetooth Tx to Arduino's 10
Bluetooth Rx to Arduino's 11
Bluetooth Vcc to Arduino's Vcc
Bluetooth Gnd to Arduino's Gnd

Here are the problems I believe I'll have and some things I can use help on:
1.) I have little soldering experience so I don't know how to directly solder wires from my modules to the Arduino while being effective, compact, and aesthetic.

2.) I have no idea how to connect the battery to the Arduino. My guess is that I'd plug the battery into the LiPro Basic Charger, and then solder wires from the + of the Charger to the RAW of the Arduino, and then from the - of the Charger to the Gnd of the Arduino. Is this correct?

3.) I don't want to solder the FTDI Basic Breakout to the board because once I upload the code, I will have no reason to modify it. So how can I temporarily connect the Pro Mini to my computer to upload the code?

4.) Are there enough pins on the Pro Mini to do what I need? If the battery leads go to RAW and GND like I'm assuming, that looks to me like it will leave two Vcc pins and two GND pins to power the Bluetooth and Accelerometer. Is this correct, or are the Vcc/GND pins on the right of the board on the programming side ONLY capable of being used to upload code with the FTDI?

5.) What is a simple way of incorporating a switch so that the device isn't constantly drawing power from the battery?

  1. Everybody started with zero experience. A lot of people got into electronics through buying kits that had to be assembled. Looking at how a kit is constructed on a PCB will give you a lot of experience.

These days commercial electronics is almost completely surface-mount. I am starting to prefer surface-mount for my projects, but it’s a pain if I have to unsolder one resistor to change it. Don’t be afraid of surface-mount. The PCB technology now has solder mask which makes it so much easier.

  1. You will need a plug. There’s always reasons to unplug the Arduino from the battery. The plugs called “dupont” with 0.1" pin spacing and little latches are pretty damn good and they can plug into a breadboard too. Unfortunately starting out and buying a selection of plugs you might need (2 position, 3 position, 4 position…) can easily cost hundreds of dollars.

  2. There should be a male header soldered onto the Pro Mini which fits the 6-pin FTDI cable. The Pro Mini is delivered without the header because you might want a header going straight up or one with a right-angle bend that puts the connector off the end of the board. Buy a bunch of header strips (both straight and right angle) from your favourite retailer. This will cost you less than $10 to get a good set of headers that can be used for many projects.

  3. Yes, you can extract 5V (or 3V depending on the board) from either of the VCC pins. However one is going to be occupied by the FTDI header. You may make the bluetooth plug in there and unplug it for programming, if that makes sense. If your sensor has very low power consumption (less than 20mA) then you can even power it from an Arduino output pin.

  4. Use a switch. Or just make the battery unpluggable.