Does any of you know of a good place to start when one wants to get the hands dirty in some avr c++ , and not keep the hands clean with pinMode() and digitalWrite and such?
It would'we been great if anyone know if there is some kind of 'blink' example using nothing but avr-libc. If this exists with assembly as well, it would be great.
I really want to try some 'outside arduino' avr now.
You could start browsing in hardware/cores/arduino/wiring_digital.c.
Also take a look at the bootloader.
(* jcl *)
Yes, thanks for the reply.
Kind of already done that. But I will look more in the source files. 
I must emphesise that the 'outside arduino' part is important for me, I want to be able to write a decent AVR program without the arduino.
[Not that I don't like the arduino, it's just that I want to be able.
The same goes for assembly. Just some simple port on off, maybe a loop. I just need something to kick me off]
Tried google, no luck.
Are there no simple tutorials? If no I'll simply have to make on myself :
this page outlines the direct port i/o functions: Arduino Reference - Arduino Reference
there is a brief tutorial here:
http://winavr.scienceprog.com/avr-gcc-tutorial/accessing-avr-microcontroller-ports-with-winavr-gcc.html
the avrfreaks forum may be a good place to look for more information on accessing the hardware without the benefit of the Arduino abstractions.
You might like to take a look at a couple of my web pages about the AVR, one with a Persistence-Of-Vision wand:
http://www.gifford.co.uk/~coredump/povwand.htm
...and the other a simple PWM LED program (although it doesn't use the AVR's hardware PWM):
http://www.gifford.co.uk/~coredump/ledpwm.htm
Both examples are coded in AVR assembler (for AVR Studio 4).
If you are really brave... start hanging out at http://www.avrfreaks.net/ You can learn a lot about "the next step" there.