Need some Guidance with my Project...

Hi and a good day to everyone…

I am building some stuff to put on my car (Electronic Stuff) and I really want to build some new indicators for it. The idea that I have is really basic but for some reason I can’t find any good material for it anywhere. The idea is to have like 8 or so LEDs in a Row and they just start lighting up at one end until they are all lit up, and then they start lighting down one by one as they started lighting up, You know like the Waiting Icon on Youtube on android, but instead of in a circle it is a straight line… Like:

00000
10000
11000
11100
11110
11111
01111
00111
00011
00001
00000
And repeat…

I have found some circuits with 555 Timers and 4017 ICs but they just keep one LED on in the Row and make it look like it’s Walking. Can any of you good Folks help me??? I know It’ll be based on these two ICs the 555 and 4017, but I can’t find anything that hits close to the mark…

Waiting for your answers anxiously…

And Thanks in advance.

Knights1122:
Hi and a good day to everyone...

I am building some stuff to put on my car (Electronic Stuff) and I really want to build some new indicators for it. The idea that I have is really basic but for some reason I can't find any good material for it anywhere. The idea is to have like 8 or so LEDs in a Row and they just start lighting up at one end until they are all lit up, and then they start lighting down one by one as they started lighting up, You know like the Waiting Icon on Youtube on android, but instead of in a circle it is a straight line... Like:

00000
10000
11000
11100
11110
11111
01111
00111
00011
00001
00000
And repeat...

I have found some circuits with 555 Timers and 4017 ICs but they just keep one LED on in the Row and make it look like it's Walking. Can any of you good Folks help me??? I know It'll be based on these two ICs the 555 and 4017, but I can't find anything that hits close to the mark...

Waiting for your answers anxiously...

And Thanks in advance.

So I think I have found a way... I say we use Latches or something like a transistor or anything that will change it's output from 0 to 1 or from 1 to 0 only when the rising edge of is detected on the input.

Like LED goes on on pin 1 and stays on until the next time a rising edge is detected and when it is detected it turns off and repeats this over and over again...

No I need a way to do this, with transistors or another IC or something. Please help, I'm going crazy over here... :stuck_out_tongue:

Takes the Q7S output (pin 9) of a 595 shift register and feedback via an inverter to the DS input (pin 14).

As you clock the chip this you'll get the wave pattern you want. Make sure the latch is enabled so the outputs
are 'live'.

You will need to reset the chip at the start I think to avoid a random pattern.

MarkT:
Takes the Q7S output (pin 9) of a 595 shift register and feedback via an inverter to the DS input (pin 14).

Well First of all thanks for the reply, Secondly I have worked with 595s to Drive seven segments with Arduino and my understanding of them is really limited to that. This inverter business however just went over my head... I am really new at this, I mean I have worked with arduino a lot but other than that I am an idiot. So please can you make a crude diagram of this and tell me what to use as inverter???

MarkT:
As you clock the chip this you'll get the wave pattern you want. Make sure the latch is enabled so the outputs
are 'live'.

Can I clock this chip with a 555 Timer??? Again, I am a braindead when it comes to this, I'll really appreciate your time and effort spent here...
And I'd like to use 595 better because I have them on hand and won't have to run to market and buy something else... I'm really anxious to hear from you back soon...
Many many thanks again...

This inverter business however just went over my head.

Or search for a 74HTC04, it has six in one package but it is cheap enough.

Grumpy_Mike:
Inverter (logic gate) - Wikipedia

Or search for a 74HTC04, it has six in one package but it is cheap enough.

Got it, I have two of these in my "Some Day Box", Now all that is needed is a dumbed-down version of what MarkT said so I can understand and build it. If somebody is generous enough to doodle a rough schematic or diagram for me, I'll be eternally grateful to them...

OK...
So, I spent the whole day and studied all the ICs, the 555, the 595 and the 74HC04 and built the circuit like MikeT said...
And violah, it works, Works well and as expected, but there is a problem with it...
When I turn it off and back on again, it sometimes goes into a crazy pattern and goes totally haywire...
My guess is it picks up some random values from somewhere in the 595 IC and just starts inverting them and propagating them... Is there any way to solve this problem???
Please I need Help, I'm almost done... All thanks to you guys, but this little problem may ruin the whole plan...
Please help me fix this...

Waiting for your answers...

You don’t need a separate NOT gate, the 74x595 has a inverted QH output on pin 9. Just loop that back to the serial data input.

Pulling the nSRCLR line low will set all the bits in the register to 0, giving you a clean slate to start from. Put an RC circuit on there to hold it low for a few milliseconds on power up while the capacitor charges, or just use a button+pull up.

Just don’t leave it floating. CMOS inputs should never be left unconnected, because they are sensitive to noise.

Jiggy-Ninja:
You don’t need a separate NOT gate, the 74x595 has a inverted QH output on pin 9. Just loop that back to the serial data input.

That does not work, or I don’t know how to make it work, however going through inverter IC it works just fine…

Jiggy-Ninja:
You don’t need a separate NOT gate, the 74x595 has a inverted QH output on pin 9. Just loop that back to the serial data input.

Pulling the nSRCLR line low will set all the bits in the register to 0, giving you a clean slate to start from. Put an RC circuit on there to hold it low for a few milliseconds on power up while the capacitor charges, or just use a button+pull up.

Can you please tell me the Capacitor’s and Resister’s value that’ll suit me well???

Also one more thing, My Latch pin on 595 is just hanging in the air, connected to nowhere, and sometimes my circuit starts behaving erratically, means it sometimes neglects the 555’s clock signals or it just sometimes freezes and lights stop changing their state… What do I do with that??? If I connect the Latch pin to Ground it just stops changing and if I connect it to +5 it also stops… Where do I put this pin???

Thanks…

Wire the latch pin high. That is to 5V.

Try a 0.1uF capacitor from the reset to ground, with a 10K from reset to 5V.

All ICs should have a 0.1uF ceramic capacitor between the power and ground of the chip. This is known as a decoupling capacitor.

Grumpy_Mike:
Wire the latch pin high. That is to 5V.

Making it so freezes the circuit, as in All Pins High, every LED in the row turns on and stays on, Making it Ground Stops the movement of LEDs right where they are...

Grumpy_Mike:
All ICs should have a 0.1uF ceramic capacitor between the power and ground of the chip. This is known as a decoupling capacitor.

Is that 0.1 or 0.01??? The 555 is using a 0.01 (103)... And thanks for the tip, I'm gonna do that...

Grumpy_Mike:
Try a 0.1uF capacitor from the reset to ground, with a 10K from reset to 5V.

And I'll do that too and get back to you with the results...

Thanks again...

Is that 0.1 or 0.01???

0.1 and it is vital they are the ceramic type.

http://www.thebox.myzen.co.uk/Tutorial/De-coupling.html

Knights1122:
That does not work, or I don't know how to make it work, however going through inverter IC it works just fine...

There are two outputs for QH on the chip, one inverted and one not. The inverted one is called QH'.

screenshot.188.jpgscreenshot.189.jpg

Can you please tell me the Capacitor's and Resister's value that'll suit me well???

Exact value isn't important, as long as it's held low for some time during power up. Try 10k and 0.1 uF to start with.

Also one more thing, My Latch pin on 595 is just hanging in the air, connected to nowhere,

I mentioned in my last post to not leave any inputs unconnected. Inputs are sensitive to noise, leaving them unconnected puts them at the mercy of every stray radio wave and stray impulse that looks at them funny, leading to...

and sometimes my circuit starts behaving erratically,

That happening.

Knights1122:
Making it so freezes the circuit, as in All Pins High, every LED in the row turns on and stays on, Making it Ground Stops the movement of LEDs right where they are...

That is because the 74x595 doesn't have a latch strobe like Mike is thinking, instead it has an edge-triggered RCLK input. Connect the 555 output to both pins 12 and 13.

Is that 0.1 or 0.01??? The 555 is using a 0.01 (103)... And thanks for the tip, I'm gonna do that...
And I'll do that too and get back to you with the results...

The exact value isn't super critical, as long as there some ceramic capacitor as close as possible to the power pins that isn't obscenely small.

The 0.01 uF capacitor in a 555 circuit is usually on the COMP pin, not the supply rails. That's for a different purpose, it's meant to filter noise out of the voltage divider in the circuit.

screenshot.188.jpg

screenshot.189.jpg

Grumpy_Mike:
0.1 and it is vital they are the ceramic type.

De-coupling

Done… Thanks for the awesome tip good sir…

I’ll definitely keep this one in mind for the future…

Jiggy-Ninja:
I mentioned in my last post to not leave any inputs unconnected. Inputs are sensitive to noise, leaving them unconnected puts them at the mercy of every stray radio wave and stray impulse that looks at them funny, leading to…
That happening.

Jiggy-Ninja:
That is because the 74x595 doesn’t have a latch strobe like Mike is thinking, instead it has an edge-triggered RCLK input. Connect the 555 output to both pins 12 and 13.

First of all, Many many thanks for sparing so much time and making this effort for me…
Secondly, Yes, You said it I had your post in mind that’s why I specifically asked for this, and Yes, I have tried to couple the Latch pin with the Clock of 555 but I the LEDs start stuttering like instead of turning one LED on and move to next, sometimes it turns on 2 or 3 at a time and also turns them off all at once sometimes and kills the COOL effect that I want to achieve, but if I leave the Latch Hanging in the air, it smooths out the effect but sometimes goes crazy… (I know, I am an idiot and taking too much of all you good peoples time, but I really am invested in this and want to make it work)…

Jiggy-Ninja:
There are two outputs for QH on the chip, one inverted and one not. The inverted one is called QH’.

Yes, I also saw the diagram of the 595 and thought to myself that could work, but sadly, Putting the Pin 9 through an Inverter seems to do the trick… If I pass the Pin 9 directly to Data Line, nothing happens, it just stays either All LEDs on or All LEDs off…

Again, many many thanks for your time and effort…

Knights1122:
Secondly, Yes, You said it I had your post in mind that’s why I specifically asked for this, and Yes, I have tried to couple the Latch pin with the Clock of 555 but I the LEDs start stuttering like instead of turning one LED on and move to next, sometimes it turns on 2 or 3 at a time and also turns them off all at once sometimes and kills the COOL effect that I want to achieve, but if I leave the Latch Hanging in the air, it smooths out the effect but sometimes goes crazy… (I know, I am an idiot and taking too much of all you good peoples time, but I really am invested in this and want to make it work)…

Yes, I also saw the diagram of the 595 and thought to myself that could work, but sadly, Putting the Pin 9 through an Inverter seems to do the trick… If I pass the Pin 9 directly to Data Line, nothing happens, it just stays either All LEDs on or All LEDs off…

Again, many many thanks for your time and effort…

Use the names from the datasheet, or the pin numbers. In both 74HC595 datasheets I looked at, there are no pins called Latch or Data. The inputs, from pins 10-14, are named nSRCLR, SRCLK, RCLK, nOE, and SER.

Also, fully specify the state of all the inputs when you report an experiment. Telling me you tied the latch and clock pins together (which are not the correct names) doesn’t tell me how the rest of the inputs were connected. It might be that when unconnected, noise at the RCLK pin is causing oscillation, so it’s continually seeing positive edges and loading the output latch. Things will stop if the noise quiets down, because there will be no more edges to clock the output latch.

It doesn’t make sense that looping QH’ back to SER wouldn’t work, but given that you’re new with this chip I don’t know if you’ve done it correctly. However, it’s hard to track polarity through the diagram in my datasheet since it’s full of redundant inverting dots. Like in the screenshot I posted above, why have adjacent dots on the output and input? That’s just noise.

If you don’t want to use an entire hex inverter chip for just a single NOT gate, you can use a 555. Leave COMP and Discharge disconnected, and connect both Trigger and Threshold to the input logic signal.

Try this:

nOE input connected to GND.
SER connected to QH’
RCLK and SRCLK connected to the 555 output.
nSRCLR connected to the RC circuit.