Hello!
Thank you for taking the time to check this post!
I currently have a 2.4" ILI9341 TFT shield seen here
I would like to build a GUI interface for it using drawing functions in the code to update individual parts of it to save on memory and draw time.
The project currently is an Arduino Uno with pins:
5(thermoCLK)
6(thermoDO)
7(thermoCS)
8(relay pin)
the initial Setpoint of the PID is 0 until user input above 300 is given to turn it on. Upon "turning on",
pin 8 Turn changed from LOW to HIGH allowing the PID to turn on. the MAX6675 thermo module reads the temp as the input.
If possible i would love to get a "crash course" on coding for this screen and similar ones based on the MCUFRIEND_kbv library. if anyone has a cheat sheet of sorts it would be greatly appreciated!
the goal for the GUI is to be able to monitor temperature and give visual cues to the user as well as allow changes to the Setpoint!
Post a link(using the chain link icon on the toolbar to make it clickable) to where you downloaded the MCUFRIEND_kbv library from or if you installed it using Library Manger(Sketch > Include Library > Manage Libraries) then say so and state the full name of the library.
I suggest that you always use the Library Manager. (unless I have advised you to use a specific Branch)
The Library Manager always installs an "official" Release. (and strips out the GitHub files)
Unless you are a Developer with a GitHub account, this will suit most users.
Your ILI9341 has been supported forever.
These Mcufriend Shields use D2-D9, A0-A4 pins for the TFT.
If you are not using the microSD, you can use D10-D13 and A5 for your own purposes e.g. A5 for relay.
Some of the Uno clones have holes for extra header pins/sockets. This will let you access D10-D13, A5 when the Shield is in place. They often have extra Analog pins A6, A7.
It is worth buying some straight male header strip and some angle strip. I always use ready-made Dupont jumper wires.
I do have a uno clone but its an older one before they changed too much about them! i do have the secondary pinout holes on the board so we actually used those to solder direct. no biggie though we can always desolder it.
and the PIN breakdown of what will be used was extremely helpful!