Tired of your +12vdc battery wire breaking loose and touching your +5 volt stuff and taking out your chips. :-[
Time to neaten up and play safe:
It's a kit so you could just install 6 or 8 positions and plug it right into one of the Arduino connect sockets.
The seller has a lot of other nice stuff.
Lefty
Nice find! That'll be nice for battery connections!
I'm sure I've aleady posted this link before.. but if you're using breadboards as much as me, these are a MUST!
Ignore the wires on the right.. those are just for testing! (But look how ugly they are compared to the jumpers, lol :D)
This is a picture of 5 EEPROM, all with different addresses, without any wires! 
Wow! That would be a rat's nest without those little jumpers hahaha. ;D
I jsut use the little jumpers that you can get @ radio shack or wherever, or chop up some bus wire
but the screw post, thats a good idea
The thing that makes it easier is good positioning of the various components so that short jumpers can be used.
When I use through hole components, I keep the cut leads from resistors, caps, LEDs and diodes. Then I used these cut leads and bend them into shape for 0.1" to 0.3" jumpers. The thicker diode leads are used for power connections. I also use solid core wire I have cut and stripped myself into short lengths which lay flat on the breadboard.
-- Mike
oakmicros.com
Normal office staples also work well as premade jumpers. Available everywhere by the thousands.
Normal office staples also work well as premade jumpers. Available everywhere by the thousands.
I would've never thought of that 
I just realized that the title for that eBay item page has the word "Assy" in it :P. Is that a (poor) abbreviation for Assembly? ;D
Normal office staples also work well as premade jumpers. Available everywhere by the thousands.
I too would have never thought of that. I just tried one and it fits nice, spanning 6 pins. I would however not recommend it for carrying larger amounts of current say over 20ma or so as the voltage drop will add up. I measured it with a good DMM (Fluke model 45 bench model) and got 10 ohms of resistance. Now this might change with different brands or types of staples, mine were just a standard office brand "Swingline".
Anyway great tip, thanks for sharing the idea.
Lefty
and got 10 ohms of resistance.
Woe Are you sure? Perhaps there's a bit of glue covering one end
Woe Are you sure? Perhaps there's a bit of glue covering one end
Perhaps. I just inserted the staple into the breadboard and then using two male jumper wires hooked up to my ohm meter (and yes I 'zeroed' out the leads) and plugged into the breadboard holes that aligned with the staple ends.
Just reporting the facts. If one has to scrape or test every staple then it kind of takes some of the convenience out of using them. I usually make my own short jumpers just using the cut off component leads from resistors and caps.
10 ohms of resistance is fine for signal routing, it's just main DC ground and power connections that are carrying much current that one might want to check out closely. Staples are probably made from a steel material rather then tin coated copper solid wire, and would be expected to have higher resistance.
Lefty
I think most stables would be coated in something to stop oxidization ...
Neat idea though ...
Well ok I dicked around at work this morning and heres what my super scientific LAB approved experments showed (*insert sarcasm anywhere in that last sentence)
tools: Tektronix auto ranging True RMS DMM
Subjets: Standard Issue "staples brand" office staples
HEAVY DUTY Stanley carbon steel staple (about 3 normal staples makes up one of these things
2 groups for each, one was ran over some scotch bright pads to remove any coating, the others were taken directly out of the box
Results:
Staples staples directly out of the box 0.30ohms
Staples staples + scotch bright showed as 0 ohms
Stanley directly ouf of the box, 0.45 ohms
Stanley + scotch bright 0.25 ohms
ok I have work to do lol
Well this thread went completely off track. Two ideas for the price of one thread. What a deal 
Tired of your +12vdc battery wire breaking loose and touching your +5 volt stuff and taking out your chips.
Actually, no: I lucked into a couple of breadboards mounted to plates with binding posts on them. I just run jumper wires from the binding posts to the breadboard, and connect the battery/bench supply to the binding posts with banana plugs.
If you can't find them used/surplus, they're ridiculously expensive, but you can make the same thing with some scrap sheet metal or plexiglas.
The DAQstuff board is cute, but I'd rather solder some screw terminals to a piece of stripboard, and either solder jumper wires to it or solder on some headers to connect jumber wires to. That way, you don't have to bring all the breadboard connections to a "bus" area to mate with that PCB.
Ran
Yea I have one with binding post also, altho I would not call them "ridiculously expensive", but they do cost about 2x as much as just the loose ones (which I mount on a piece of plywood, and could have binding post too)
The situation as I see it is that some people lack breadboarding skills. I lacked them, but I think I have gotten better.
Before:
http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/5564/1236568052450.jpg
After:
http://img693.imageshack.us/img693/9497/20091206210533.jpg
http://img686.imageshack.us/img686/3606/20091204230836.jpg
I wouldn't use a stapler as a jumper for one simple reason: There is no insulator, so anything can short with it rather easy.
Staples staples directly out of the box 0.30ohms
Staples staples + scotch bright showed as 0 ohms
Stanley directly ouf of the box, 0.45 ohms
Stanley + scotch bright 0.25 ohms
That is the results I would expect to see - thanks for the "scientific" tests
Ken H>
What is wrong with something like this?
http://maplin.co.uk/images/full/BZ12N.jpg
It is a small block that connects to the top of the breadboard and allows spade conectors to go into the board and then jumpers go into breadboard type connections in the front.
