P-Channel MOSFET - soldering temperature

In the future, use proper level converters.

  • Suggest you look at the SN74LVC version as their Vcc can be 1.65V to 5.5V

  • The inputs of the LVC family are 5V tolerant.

  • LVC can be used as 5V to 3V3 logic level shifter. i.e. 5V logic --> 3.3V.
    As a side note, we can use the SN74AHCT1G125 for 3V3 to 5V.



FYI

Probably not.

Contrary to some of the earlier comments, most semiconductors withstand fairly absurd amounts of abuse without apparent degradation in performance or long-term stability. The odds that the behavior you're currently seeing due to taking a little too long with the soldering iron are next to zero.

The problem is likely a combination of design errors in your circuit. You may want to start by simulating your circuit in something like LTSpice. This can help to tackle some of the more obvious issues. There can still be some remaining problems due to marginal effects like leakage currents that sometimes spoil the broth.

This is not to say it's perfectly fine to blast a SOT23 MOSFET with a propane torch to desolder it or anything other extreme. But being a bit slow with the soldering iron really won't do as much damage as some fear, even if it isn't necessarily good practice.

Hi, @szkorbut

Did you protoboard your project BEFORE going to PCB?

Tom... :smiley: :+1: :coffee: :australia:

+1
No ESD precautions likely kills more fets than soldering too long. Touching the gate before touching drain/source could already kill it, especially with non ESD-safe tools.
A trick for through-hole fets is to wrap a thin wire around/through the legs (starting at the drain/source), which is removed after soldering. SMD fets should only be soldered with paste and a hotplate or rework station.
Leo..

1 Like

Your ESP module has 3.3V output, connect the logic converter LV to it.
Change R3 to 220 ohms.

Why is there a 10uF cap connectet to GPIO0? Must be another mistake.
Take some time and review your schematic.

I did with modules and programming, but added the FET switch in the process later on. Figured since I've already did that before would work - I was wrong. It is clear to me that the problem is not my soldering but schematics. I will go back to protoboard for a while.

Ok.

Can you point me to why?

That is something that I found on this forum. ESP32 modules often will not boot on power on and require manual reset to start program. Adding that cap solves this issue, but I do not know why.

It will make the 2N7000 turn on/off a little faster plus it will increase the voltage to the gate if you can't make the change suggested in post #16

It was a very bad fix to a specific esp module problem and was never proven to work reliably. If your module does not have the problem, remove it as it may damage your particulay module

This is a confusing thread. Just a few points.
The 2N7000 is a poor choice for 3.3volt logic. Better use an NPN transistor in it's place.
The BS250 is also a poor choice, since it's ON resistance is likely about 15 ohm @ 5volt.
That could explain the large volt drop.

Not sure what's wrong with an ESP32-C3 SuperMini. I have used about 25 so far in a project, without issues. I know that ESP32 devices have high current spikes, and tiny boards have no room for big caps. A good supply and/or a good/short USB lead are essential. But that goes for most ESP32 boards.
Leo..