But for electroplating all traces would need to be connected, right? Or you would have to make sure that every single isolated trace had its own connection to the voltage... sounds like fun.
The cooper wont oxidize and tinning should also help boosting down the resistance and permitting some more current and voltage from a given trace, and it also looks nicer.
What?
I just assemble shortly after making home made boards else I just get some fine glass paper and sand it down lightly before I want to assemble it.
Well you just kind of answered your own question there......you don't have to assemble shortly after making, then there are the I'm sure debatable questions of oxidisation, longevity, and MOST important of all aesthetics.
I have read about that cool-amp stuff before. Is it really that easy? clean, rub on and polish? Sure seems expensive - how many boards will the $32 kit do?
I've just used the traces as they are etched - even a few days later soldering is no problem as the flux takes care of required cleaning.
Well, what you're looking for is a "electoless Tin plating solution." Even if you can't get the hobbyist grade "Tinnit" stuff in your country, there may be another supplier of a tin plating solution. Be a bit careful; plating solutions seem to vary form "somewhat nasty" to "very nasty indeed!" (cyanide being a popular ingredient!)
I don't think the UK is one of those countries where raw chemicals are easier to get than prepared products, but you can also consider making your own: http://www.finishing.com/0200-0399/260.shtml
Whats silver like to solder onto, any advantages over tin?
I have read about that cool-amp stuff before. Is it really that easy? clean, rub on and polish? Sure seems expensive - how many boards will the $32 kit do?
You can make your own really cheap, it as easy as 123.
1 gram Silver Chloride
2 grams Cream of Tartar (Common Compound used in baking)
3 grams Sodium Chloride (Ordinary table salt)
Grind the Silver Chloride and Table Salt into a fine powder, using a mortar and pestle.
Combine all three ingredients.
They can be stored indefinitely (if stored in a dark place).
This will make enough to plate about 37 square inches of metal surface.
1 - Polish and Clean the metal surface you wish to plate.
Water will cling to the entire metal surface when it is clean enough.
2 - Pour a generous amount of powder on the metal surface you wish to plate.
3 - Moisten a paper towel or soft cloth, and use it to rub the powder onto the metal.
Hey thanks for the info - I googled and found this source to buy - Wish they had a 5gram bottle to play with. At $53/25 grams I'll have to think about that a bit. Only $5 shipping. Hmmm.... sure would be nice to try. http://www.saltlakemetals.com/SilverChloridePlating1.htm
Silver is very easy to solder - well, silver wire anyway. I would expect this to be ok?
Just checked the Cool-Amp price of $32 for 2 oz - enough for 750sq inches - maybe that's less expensive since 1 grams will do 37 sq inches, 25 grams would do 925 sq inches. By doing a bit of back calculations it seems like they might be using the same mix of 1, 2, &3 grams of each. Yep, the Cool-Amp looks better price.
The Cool-amp treated boards are exceptionally easy to solder. That is the main reason why I like it. It will eventually tarnish a little but there is a very good conductor involved with your solder joints.
Does anyone know where you can get this in the USA? I see tons of stuff for MG Chemicals (coatings and such), but nothing for Seno products (or should I be looking for something else?)...
Smells like Bigfoots thingy, but really nice results.
That container looks like the one I got (Seno 3211), even with the 90g powder included for 1 liter. From your description of the smell too Only difference I can spot right now (without knowing the actual content), is in the area coverage, which in your link varies from 0.6 to 2.7 m2. Mine says 5600cm2 (0.56m2) at 1 - 1.5 um thicknesss, but I guess thats dependent on how long it is submerged. It claims to be sufficient for 100 average "europe" sized PCB's (10cm by 16cm), having 70% trace coverage. Or possibly the opposite, the text is a bit ambiguous on that (In fact I think they mean 70% etched away, leaving 30% copper left, especially it being a product info trying to look good or something).
I've used about 5-10 minutes so far, but from the looks of it I should be more patient (I wasn't sure of the times, plus also it looked nice after that. in fact it looks nice after a much shorter time).
Oh, and like the warning says,never use metallic containers for tinning (not that I have, I just wanted to say that).