Perfboard Arduino +++ (a few pictures warning)

Forum 2005-2010 (read only) General Exhibition
1

Ok so here is the story, I am working on a project, at the time I have no power switch hooked up to my DC adapter so I am reaching down and unplugging it from the power strip, that in itself is inconvenient, but Thursday night I got my finger on one of the prongs and got bit by mains current (which is no fun)

Usually I just put a little switch inline with the cord of the DC jack, but I switch tween a few different ones (9v 12v and 15v for different reasons) and B whenever I get a 2.1mm jack it only lasts a month at best before it goes on someones laptop or whatever, and my cords get shorter, Im tired of re-doing switches and etc. I decided I was going to put a switch on my BBB Arduino

The problem with that is the BBB Arduino uses 3 atoms wide pcb pads and removing something from it is impossible without destroying the pad, I had encountered that when I put it together, but somehow thought I could get around it now... NOPE! dead arduino (fixable but a pain)

At that point I said screw it, I am going to make an Arduino that suits my needs and my workspace, and because I am a sick s.o.b. I did it on perfboard using uninsulated wire :smiley:

Now mind you this is not my best example of perfboarding with bare wire, it was made mostly out of frustration and a since of "lets get this done ASAP so I can get back to my project". Adding onto it I decided to use a board that I had sprayed with black lacquer about 4 months ago, and the pads have been scrubbed down 3 times since then with an abrasive pad, so they funk up real quick and are a bit thin (fun times!) so please dont hold me to perfect art of soldering on this thing lol, it was rough!

anyway, its similar to the BBB (thought wise) and not sheild compatible, I rather like having all my pins accessible from the front of the board, also since I use a serial port, its a serial model with a modern device rs232<>ttl serial level shifter / inverter connected by a ribbon cable assembly, other wise heres what I did

  • no more 2.1mm power jack, I now have a dual screw terminal on the left side, cause thats where my power is. Since the screw terminal is obviously not polarized diode protection gets changed from your standard 1 diode to a 1.5 amp full bridge rectifier (you can plug it in any way you want and its right)

  • ribbon cable is on the right rear of the board, this is great cause my serial connection snakes tween my lcd and my o-scope on the right, my old board had it on the left front adding to clutter

  • added sockets for 14 pin and 8 pin attiny chips, and they are wired up to the 328 for use in programming, they also have a jumper to send power to one of the sockets when needed

  • added a freaking power switch (I dont know why this is not standard on all boards)

pictures



and why yes it works perfectly :wink:

2

because I am a sick s.o.b.

You are sick! ;D
Amazing work! or is it amazing that it works? :wink:

3

I'm jealous. I need a board like that.

...a dual screw terminal on the left side, cause thats where my power is...
...ribbon cable is on the right rear of the board, this is great cause my serial connection...

Now THAT'S a customized Arduino.

4

As a stripboard veteran, I can't help thinking it would be a lot easier with insulated wire. :slight_smile:

5

Class bit of brewing! Me, I like Vero Wire, or the very similar Roadrunner system for the signal lines - so I really have to take my hat off to you Sir.

Glyn

6

Is the base a coaster? :wink:

I added switches not too long ago for the same reason, but thanks to British safety standards, it only happens when using chinese power supplys :smiley:

7

I can't help thinking it would be a lot easier with insulated wire

yeah !
did u get it working?
if the answer is yes :sunglasses: cool
i had tried two times but every time i go wrong somewhere on the other :frowning:

8

You are sick! ;D

thanks

Amazing work! or is it amazing that it works? :wink:

I would say both heh

I'm jealous. I need a board like that.

yes you do, I think it will be very handy when dealing with tiny's and it helps keep clutter down

Now THAT'S a customized Arduino.

heh yea it was semi irritating to have the serial cable lopped to the front and the dc power dragged half way cross the table

As a stripboard veteran, I can't help thinking it would be a lot easier with insulated wire. :slight_smile:

probably, I dunno its a lot of little bits of wire to strip :wink:

Class bit of brewing! Me, I like Vero Wire, or the very similar Roadrunner system for the signal lines - so I really have to take my hat off to you Sir.

thank you! I have never had the pleasure of the vero wire systems, but they do look like something I would love to get my hands on (ps: Sir is my fathers name)

Is the base a coaster? :wink:

close, but its just a chunk of plywood, actually most of the stuff I have is mounted on the same thing, as I have a (very tiny at this point) sheet of it at work, and a couple spays of lacquer it looks rather decent

I added switches not too long ago for the same reason, but thanks to British safety standards, it only happens when using chinese power supplys Cheesy

American safety standards on house wiring pretty much boil down to "don't put your finger in there stupid"

yeah !
did u get it working?
if the answer is yes Cool :sunglasses:
i had tried two times but every time i go wrong somewhere on the other :frowning:

yep works fine, and keep trying you can only get better