Powering setup - newbie looking for suggestions

Hi. I've got a project planned to build a TARDIS hat. The intention was to use wifi to trigger LED pulses + sound. I've rounded up some bits and pieces. I primarily need to figure out how to power everything in as light a setup as possible, and without plugging into a wall since it needs to be worn/carried.

So far I have a full size solderless breadboard (And a half size, which I'd like to use but don't think I'll be able to fit everything) a DFPlayer mini, a HiLetgo ESP8266, and an assortment of m/m wires.

What I need to get from here - some sort of power setup (and any associated bits I need to make that work), LEDs, and speaker(s).

The light and sound themselves don't need to be super bright (you don't need to hear and see it from 50 feet away, I'll be happy with five or six feet)

Any assistance here would be greatly appreciated.

Power: one or more Li-ion batteries will do fine.

For the general construction: get a piece of protoboard or perfboard to solder all your components on, unless you want to spend most of the evening hunting down loose wires (a solderless breadboard is great for prototyping on your bench, but that's also where it should stay).

The hope was to move it to a soldered project yeah, but I'm more worried about making sure I have the right bits to make it all work first.

It's my understanding that not everything works at the same voltage. The ESP8266 works on 3.3v, and I'm not entirely certain about the DFPlayer. Speaker(s) I'm not too worried about, I'm looking at a couple of the tiny ones from Adafruit (under 0.5w each). I'm a bit confused about how to get a battery to provide the right amount of voltage to each component without blowing out others. Plus what size battery.

Any further advice in this arena is welcome.

According to the specifications the DFplayer will work on 3.2-5V so 3.3V is OK.

And assuming that the speaker will be fine with that (why wouldn't it?)

Looks like I need to get a logic level shifter, and something to connect a LiPo battery with a JST connector to the board. Yes? (I know, seems like an obvious answer, but I just want to be sure before I put in the order for the perfboard and other bits).

A LiPo battery produces 3.3-4.3V (nominal 3.7) depending on the charge level, with the 3.3V a voltage where it should kick out. Many such batteries come with protection circuits, but not all.

Easiest is to add a LDO 3.3V linear regulator to get the voltage for your system. Otherwise look for a buck converter, it's a bit more efficient.

I don't see where a logic level shifter comes in play.

The logic level, I think, came in when I was trying to figure out if it was better to power everything off a 5v and just step it down to 3.3 for the lower components. I looked at something like a Neopixel Ring, and it says it can be powered off 3.3v but might have performance issues.