Programming a standalone Atmega 328P bootloaded...

... on a bread board via the USB-Mini Adapter
Hello I tried making a simple stand alone version ot the Arduino which I can reprogram using these instructions:

Here's how my arduino looks like:




I uploaded the Blink program to the chip using my original Arduino Duemilanove and when I put it to the bread board the program functions ok, but I cannot reprogramm it on the bread board I get these errors:
avrdude: stk500_getsync(): not in sync: resp=0x00
avrdude: stk500_disable(): protocol error, expect=0x14, resp=0x51

I am a still a great noob but in some posts I read I think you must first reset the chip (using the RESET PIN that is connected to the button) then upload the program so you can programm it.
How do i do that??
Please help! :-/

If your mini-USB adapter has the DTR signal broke out then just wire it to the reset pin via a series .1ufd capacitor and the Arduino should be able to auto-reset the board prior to uploading a new sketch. If you don't have a means to auto-reset then you have to use the manual reset switch, but the timing of that reset is tricky as there is a pretty short 'window' of when it will work properly with the IDE timing. Most hold the reset button down and release it as soon as the IDE displays the size of the compiled sketch, but again it can be tricky getting it right.

please dude give me some kind of schematic because whateverI try it doesn't work :-/b
btw I have the DTR broke out, I connectedit to one of the end a capacitor (not in parrarel) and the other end of the capacitor I connected to the reset pin of the Atmega328P
It doesn't work :cry:
I have the revised version of the Mini USB Adapter

please dude give me some kind of schematic because whateverI try it doesn't work

A schematic showing what? Auto-reset function?

The Standard Arduino uses auto-reset, just locate C-13 where it connects from the DTR pin on a FTDI chip to the ARV reset pin:

I see C-13 but it doesn't work, what is tha circle with the white line between where it shows RESET-EN.
:-/

That's just a optional signal path, such that you could cut the other path and use a switch or jumper pins at the half-circles so that you could enable or disable the auto-reset feature at your wish.

What size cap are you using and are you using a pull-up resistor for the reset pin. If so what is it's value?

The cap is in plastic yellow square body .1 (100 nF)
63 (63V)

I use a 10K resistor conected between the +5V and the RESET pin of the chip.Just like in the picture of the project

So I don't do anything about that "circle"?

So I don't do anything about that "circle"?

That's correct, just ignore it.

well I ignored it but I still cannot program the chip,damn! :cry:

Okey, I am really pissed right now >:( >:( >:(
I fixed the issue, for this thing to work you need to connect DTR pin of the Mini USB ADapter via a 100nF capacitor to the RESET PIN of the chip,
BUT.... YOU HAVE TO CONNECT THE RX PIN OF THE ADAPTER TO RX PIN OF THE CHIP, AND THE TX PIN OF THE ADAPTER TO TX PIN OF THE CHIP...s o you can program it.
So that guy's standalone version review has a mistake, so fix it pls so there are no more headsmashings like mine.
(Dude you cannot imagine what a wishful thinking I have towards you :o)

Dude you cannot imagine what a wishful thinking I have towards you

If you get this ticked off on something this minor, you'll probably land in jail when life throws you a real curveball...

;D

Lol

Dude I live in the worst country in Europe what more of a curve ball can I get :stuck_out_tongue:

And right now I have to make a 3-phase voltage inverter with the arduino to control a 3-phase AC induction motor, V/f controll
So the question of the week is physically possible for the arduino to make such device? :o
Can I controll 6 IGBT transistors in such fashion to replicate such device? :-?

Thank you. Thank you.

I searched the forum and couldn't find this thread, before initiating a thread of my own. I tried again and found it.

Is it true that you go from TX to TX AND RX to RX in all cases or is this the exception?

Thank you again.

RX and TX are bad labels, but they are the signal names, depending from which end your looking at they could be either and still correct

try one and if it doesnt work flip them, its a 50/50 shot

There are 2 ways of labelling TX and RX, in theory TX goes to RX and vice versa but some label the pins as whet you connect them to rather than what they are on the board. In this case you connect TX to TX and RX to RX.