Datasheets for both components are available at the links shared. I would like to use Potentiometer control to control the valve and the guidance shared on the datasheet for the controller shows this:
Based on this, I plan to use the SC-2000-U proportional control option. For this an external potentiometer will be required to be connected and I plan to use this component: 410-239 Digilent | Mouser United Kingdom
Hi, many thanks for shaing feedback. Based on your reply, I have remodelled my circuit set-up with an N-Channel Mosfet (unsure if this is the right choice). I believe resistors would have to be added in and I am unsure on the rigth way to determine the value of these resistors. Would appreciate if you could have a look at my diagram and provide feedback if I am on the rigth track:
One resistor (10-50k) should go from GND to the PWM pin, to keep the transistor off while the Arduino is not yet powered up. It should not form a voltage divider together with the gate resistor.
The other resistor from PWM pin to gate can be 270 Ohm, for gate current limitation.
The shield, if ever, should be connected to earth/GND.
Thanks for your guidance and learnings shared. I've updated the resistors and wiring as suggested. A note: how will I wire two pins to the same PWM pin coming form the Gate and GND - can the wires be unionised before entering the PWM pin port? Sharing my updated diagram:
@alto777 and @DrDiettrich cheers for sharing both your inputs. Would like to get an understanding whether my latest diagram shared would be safe to implement - and an understanding on this: "how will I wire two pins to the same PWM pin coming form the Gate and GND - can the wires be unionised before entering the PWM pin port?". Many thanks.
Yes. The signal at the pin goes to two places, delivering to them the same voltage.
Where they part ways physically is unimportant over the small distances these are probably, and is mostly something you can decide on the basis of convenience.
For getting into the Arduino board, you could use a male Dupont jumper, or a pin header you could solder a wire onto.
They are inexpensive. Long pin headers are easily cut to size - I'm still working through a life time supply of 40 pin headers I got some years ago - never mind how long precisely.
The Dupont jumpers can be cut, and used in the gazintas on the UNO board. Cut they are handy to solder to a few parts like switches and stuff for easy rapid testing.
When tou are doing the other side, where the power is being delivered through the MOSFET the important thing will be wire of a good size and solid connections. You can run this circuit on a bread board but it would be a stretch for that, and def not the way you leave it when saying this is finished.
Small circuit boards with a grid of 0.1 x 0.1 "pad per hole", um, holes is an easy way to,lash up a tiny circuit like this.
What exactly are you trying to do? My guess is throttle a hydraulic FCV (Flow Control Valve). OK, the valve is a proportional valve and you have the driver for the valve. I assume you have the 24 volt valve since I see plenty of 24 volts in your images.
So you have the valve body and you have a controller designed to work with your valve. The controller sends a signal to the valve sending the valve a command for a position. Reading the data sheet, the controller data sheet, and looking at the partial data sheet you posted they show a pot used for position control of the valve. One end of the pot is tied to Gnd and the other end to 4.5 volts out of the controller. So the voltage on the pot's wiper can never be less than zero and never greater than 4.5 volts. Don't want that? You had a digital pot in the mix for awhile?
So you can use an external pot to control the valve body or just simply set a voltage between 0 and 4.5 volts between Gnd (Brown) and Green, The image also points out Imax and Imin which you adjust on pots inside the amplifier driver.
Again, what exactly in detail is your objective?
Understand also the Dither is applied by the valve body driver amp.
Many thanks @alto777 this has been very helpful. I'll test on a breadboard and then transition to a pcb layout/design - I understand that with a 24V power supply running, jumper wires shouldn't be used for the final solution. Cheers.
Cheers for sharing this explaination - it has helped me better understand the workings of the controller. You are right in understanding that I am trying to throttle the FCV, the initial idea was to use the matched controller to deliver the dither/pwm signal, however @DrDiettrich suggested the use of a MOSFET - which I believe would be a lower cost and quicker to implement solution. Nonetheless, your description has vastly helped in better understanding the function of the components. Cheers.
