well my question is about the standalone arduino, or let's say the Atmega328P out of arduino, we know what components we should add from the tutorial about standalone arduino but i need to know please if :
1- is necessary to add Schottcky Diode for reverse current protection ?
2- if i need to work with SPI, is there any hardware that must be added to make the pins 12 and 11 ready for SPI or that's an atmega built in function ?
No need for reverse current protection if you are not going to connect the supply backwards.
SPI is built in.
What you do need is decoupling capacitors on both supplies (preferably on each supply pin).
Having a 8 or 16MHz clock is useful if you don't want to rewrite slabs of the Arduino libraries,
so a crystal and its load capacitors are pretty much mandated.
MarkT:
No need for reverse current protection if you are not going to connect the supply backwards.
SPI is built in.
What you do need is decoupling capacitors on both supplies (preferably on each supply pin).
Having a 8 or 16MHz clock is useful if you don't want to rewrite slabs of the Arduino libraries,
so a crystal and its load capacitors are pretty much mandated.
aha ok so it's build in the atmega alone
well in my application i have a special connector for the battery which you can see in this link but i only wanted to make sure everything is protected in case someone took this connector off and wired only the wires
Paul__B:
To me, the big question about a StandAlone Arduino is - why?
A Pro Mini is less than US $2, is ready-to-go with all the components you need. Extremely easy to wire up, easy to program (either serial or ISP).
well i have a pro mini which is way more than 2$ here, i did not like working with it with big application like this at all
so i preferred to take the atmega and work with it alone after program it with the arduino uno board
A Pro Mini is smaller or the same size as a ATmega328 DIP + the rest that's already on there (voltage regulator, crystal, switch, caps). And you get to skip all the wiring you need to do! So yeay, I only use Pro Mini's
The Pro Mini doesn't have a USB-serial converter, so you would need an FTDI cable or similar
to program it. The Nano has a USB-serial converter so would be easier. With a standalone
board you either need a FTDI cable or to program the DIP version of the ATmega on a socketed
Uno and then plug into the standalone.
But the Nano is more expensive and bigger... Not much, but it is.
And both the "stand alone" ATmega328 and the Pro Mini you can program the same way, use a Serial-USB converter, a programmer or an Arduino as ArduinoISP. And even better, a normal single ATmega328 has no bootloader so you need to burn it with a programmer or an ArduinoISP before you can use it. The Pro Mini always has a bootloader (although you might want to swap it with the Uno bootloader).
I should of course point out that I was referring to the "clone" Pro Minis, which so far I (and most other people) have found to work perfectly well.
But unless you are ordering through one of the big dealers and paying "big bucks", the "StandAlone" ATmega328 you get will be from the same source as the one on the clone Pro Mini, and I very much doubt that the other components on the clone Pro Mini will be different to those on the Genuino.
Also, I have a notion that on eBay at least, Pro Minis are as cheap or cheaper than the "raw" ATmega328 because - they sell many times more modules than bare chips!
hello everyone, thanks a lot for your advices, well i checked again on the website of the local shop i buy from, the one I have is called Arduino Pro Micro which i don't think is original or made by the arduino company
it's this one and is expensive and not good to work with it has some problems http://www.ekt2.com/products/productdetails?ProductId=eaa31277-7828-44bc-9851-393ca08e9086
about the pro mini, does it change a bit in the code level ? because this micro has a little bit of difference in terms of coding
firashelou:
Well I checked again on the website of the local shop I buy from, the one I have is called Arduino Pro Micro which I don't think is original or made by the Arduino company
Is that perhaps because there is the logo "Deek-Robot" on the back?
firashelou:
It's this one and is expensive and not good to work with it has some problems
Well, the Pro Micro is indeed tricky to work with.
firashelou:
About the pro mini, does it change a bit in the code level ? because this micro has a little bit of difference in terms of coding
You referred to an ATmega328. The Pro Mini uses the ATmega328, same as the UNO, so using a Pro Mini or clone thereof is the same as a stand-alone ATmega328 though the Pro Mini (virtually always) does come complete with the bootloader.
A Pro Micro uses a quite different chip, so it will not be the same as using an ATmega328. My point is that you can buy clone Pro Minis from eBay for less than US $2, though you have to wait a while for China Post to Air Mail them by boat.
Paul__B:
Is that perhaps because there is the logo "Deek-Robot" on the back?
no it doesn't have, the only tiny very little logo that is made on the PCB and not silkscreen white is perhaps a FFA or TTA i can not tell exactly because the shape is confusing whether it's an A or T
Paul__B:
Well, the Pro Micro is indeed tricky to work with.
tricky you mean in terms of software, like you have to add some sort of lines to make it work ? that's what i remember i did wheni tried to work with the micro
Paul__B:
You referred to an ATmega328. The Pro Mini uses the ATmega328, same as the UNO, so using a Pro Mini or clone thereof is the same as a stand-alone ATmega328 though the Pro Mini (virtually always) does come complete with the bootloader.
A Pro Micro uses a quite different chip, so it will not be the same as using an ATmega328. My point is that you can buy clone Pro Minis from eBay for less than US $2, though you have to wait a while for China Post to Air Mail them by boat.
well i can not buy from ebay because the paypal is not supported in my country but i can buy from aliexpress.com and via china mail lol
well about the USB, i have this one, will it work ?
The Pro Micro uses a different chip. So you need the board files to go with it. After that all the basic stuff will work. But libraries is a different story. If a library does some register manipulation it needs to know which register on which chip. The Uno (and thus Pro Mini) and Mega are like in every library but the Pro Micro may not. And that makes it harder.
So the Pro Mini and the Uno are the same except the Pro Mini is smaller and misses the onboard USB. You USB-serial converter will work just fine. But it has no DTR pin broken out so you need to keep the Pro Mini in reset untill the IDE starts to upload. (But that would be the same for a stand alone...) If you're not afraid to solder an extra wire to the USB-serial you can make your own DTR pin. See this article for the pinout, but spoiler, it's pin 13
septillion:
The Pro Micro uses a different chip. So you need the board files to go with it. After that all the basic stuff will work. But libraries is a different story. If a library does some register manipulation it needs to know which register on which chip. The Uno (and thus Pro Mini) and Mega are like in every library but the Pro Micro may not. And that makes it harder.
So the Pro Mini and the Uno are the same except the Pro Mini is smaller and misses the onboard USB. You USB-serial converter will work just fine. But it has no DTR pin broken out so you need to keep the Pro Mini in reset untill the IDE starts to upload. (But that would be the same for a stand alone...) If you're not afraid to solder an extra wire to the USB-serial you can make your own DTR pin. See this article for the pinout, but spoiler, it's pin 13
And yeay, Aliexpress will work just as fine
hahaha yea i ordered 3 for 1.5$ each so the cost with shippement is around 6.5$, if i wanna buy one here it will cost me the 6$ lol
thanks for the reply what do you mean about the register ? the main library works different for this one ?
about the USB, you meant the pin is missing not broken ?
for the reset, i must add a tactile button and keep it clicked untill the arduino uploading bar starts ?
about the standalone, in fact i do not make a standalone for uploading no, what i do is i upload the program to the chip and after i unplug it from the uno and plug it into the IC socket of my circuit, that's how i do it to keep a small space circuit and remove the arduino uno board which i will use again for another new atmega328 after i burn the bootloader on it
septillion:
And yeay, Aliexpress will work just as fine
You may be lucky (it seems firashelou is! )
I am frustrated by going through the registration process, choosing an item which clearly and explicitly details "Free shipping to Australia by China Post", going to the checkout to pay and being told "this item does not ship to Australia"! .
So if you are lucky, well and good but their website appears to be seriously broken!
firashelou:
about the USB, you meant the pin is missing not broken ?
Right - for autoreset to work, you need TX, RX, Vcc, Gnd and DTR (DTR gets connected to one side of a 0.1uf cap, other side goes to reset, so when DTR is asserted, that generates a low pulse on the reset pin to reset the chip). Your adapters only break out TX, RX, Vcc and Gnd.
I got a bunch of those $1/ea CH340G adapters, and soldered a flying lead onto pin 13 to get my programmers (or that's what I did before I made a bunch of my own CH340G adapters)
Paul__B:
You may be lucky (it seems firashelou is! )
I am frustrated by going through the registration process, choosing an item which clearly and explicitly details "Free shipping to Australia by China Post", going to the checkout to pay and being told "this item does not ship to Australia"! .
So if you are lucky, well and good but their website appears to be seriously broken!
lol i don't know about that but so far i made like 10 independent purchases and received all of them just fine
maybe there is a shipment problem between china and australia nevertheless the same distance is to our region
DrAzzy:
Right - for autoreset to work, you need TX, RX, Vcc, Gnd and DTR (DTR gets connected to one side of a 0.1uf cap, other side goes to reset, so when DTR is asserted, that generates a low pulse on the reset pin to reset the chip). Your adapters only break out TX, RX, Vcc and Gnd.
I got a bunch of those $1/ea CH340G adapters, and soldered a flying lead onto pin 13 to get my programmers (or that's what I did before I made a bunch of my own CH340G adapters)
i guess because they consider the reset button should be added independently
so about that reset button, i never made one because i never used it in a standalone situation because i program the chip on the arduino uno board, but you suggest i must connect a cap to a pushbutton connected to gnd and that's it?