C1/R1/LED2 is almost certainly wrong.
D1 should have a current-limiting resistor.
The schematics is ugly and hard to read; it's bad form to run signals inside of component outlines. Put a nice horizontal +5 line across the top and GND at the bottom and run appropriate signals vertically (or use GND and V+ symbols.)
LED2 is shown connected backwards.
Lefty
Much nicer (version 2.) Not my favorite style of schematic (aside from power, I like to actually see wires), but it is pretty common and not something I can complain about. Nicely named and labeled signals...
LED2 is backward.
R1 (with the IR LED) is too big (1k); you probably want larger resistors with the status/power LEDs (since they're just status) and a lower value on the IR led since that's where you want to send most of your power...
Use thicker traces on the PCB, especially if you're going to make it yourself. See http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-hobbyist-PCBs-with-professional-CAD-tools-by-/
You can probably make this into a single-sided board with some effort.
Cleared some things up.
This is the final PCB/Schematic.
Files:
http://www.snorksoft.co.uk/FILES.ZIP
Schematic:
PCB:
Thanks for all your help! And you certainly did.
i bet you can make this into a single sided.... (another project)
do you have any code?
n/m its in the zip file
Yeah probably! but the fab house I'm using charge $2.50/sqinch for 2 layer boards.
I think it would be the same price for a single layer board :\
Also! if your going to build it note i changed the pins:
#define LED 13
#define IRLED 3
#define TRIGGER 6
#define REGIONSWITCH 7
This is so i don't need a jumper to re-program it (originaly pin 0 was connected to ground for Euorpeon TV codes)