Lot of comments on using those dimmers:
http://www.amazon.com/Westek-6503BC-3-Level-Wire-In-Replacement/product-reviews/B00004XS95
Caveat: You never want to run a CFL with that thing! Better to make a variable shade.
I think that you want to wire the lamp as it should then simply run a wire from LAMP GROUND to your touch rod.
The wider blade of a US lamp lug is the "neutral" wire - on most lamp cords there's a rib or wale in the insulation surrounding that wire. Once you've confirmed which wire entering the lamp base is the neutral, it needs to be joined to the grey wire from the 6503BC and one of the supply wires to the lamp(s)...the one which is connected to the shell of the socket(s). 3 wires join together on this neutral leg.
The other wire from the plug, the one from the narrow blade of the plug, is the "hot". It needs to be joined to the black wire of the 6503BC. Usually just two wires at this junction, but if the fixture has multiple lamps there could be more. The supplied wire nuts can handle two or three wires if they aren't too stout, but for four or more you should acquire slightly larger wire nuts.
The second wire supplying the lamps(s), the one going to the base contact(s), is often (but not always) red...it connects to the brown wire of the 6503BC. Again, only two wires at this junction for a single-lamp fixture but you may have more.
Lastly, the yellow wire of the 6503BC connects to the metal body of the lamp fixture - it's the sensor lead that causes the unit to respond when you touch the fixture. Normally if there's a ground wire connected to the body it will be green in color. If there is no ground "pigtail" provided, connect the yellow wire directly to a metal part of the fixture which can be touched to control the lights.