I bought several of these smart plugs:
They don’t work because they won’t connect to any of the apps that came with the instructions. They are generic and off brand. Any idea if/how they can be reflashed with code that I could use to control it. I assume it has something similar to an esp8226 to control the on board 5v relay…..
I have a ftid adapter that I have flashed sonoff devices with before, but don’t really know how I would reflash this. Any ideas?
Thanks
Where’s the suspected 8266 module?
Clearer, more complete photos please.
Any links or user manual of the existing product to mention..
Can you post a link showing where you bought these? Is there a model number or any other information on the plug?
What specific apps were they designed to work with?
Wsiiroon WiFi Smart Plug - Best Wireless Outlet Plug for Alexa, Google Home - You Can Turn The Light On/Off from Anywhere(A Secured 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi Network Connection Required) - 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0816FFCQJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_W6DDSNYPNJFD60EX6YTR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
SmartEHome+ Is what it suggests. But I can’t even find it. I bought these over a year ago. I just found them and have been fooling around with esp8226 based on how it looked thought I may be able to do something with them.
It certainly could be a predecessor to the existing 8266, but I doubt it’s compatible with the current tool chain...
If it is WIFI and Alexis compatible, there’s a chance the API and cloud support no longer exists.
The bottom line is that you need more detailed information…
Now for the possibilities…
You could possibly replace that daughterboard with a real ESP, and program it to work the way you want, but these modules are so cheap, it would only be for something custom.
Luckily, it looks like the I/o pins have been listed, so a bit of reverse engineering shouod yield results.
Promising, but if it was an ESP8266, you need control of GPIO0 and GPIO2 to program it and they are not listed so it is not looking good! 
I think you may have hit the nail on the head. I just saw them in my junk pile and thought if it were something simple I would flash them some how and make use of them, but it seems it is not going to be an easy task. I appreciate the help though!
Agree, I suppose that if OP’s reprogramming a new ESP, you just use different pins.
Point taken.
ets Jan 8 2013,rst cause:2, boot mode:(3,6)
load 0x40100000, len 2592, roo1tail 0
chksum 0xf3
load 0x3ffe8000, len 764, room 8
tail 4
chksum 0x92
load 0x3ffe82fc, len 6rm
tail 0
chksum 0x22
csu0
nbvo (f
Pe HSM:OSF eM8t25)jtne@0
rf cal sector: 251
freq trace enable 0
rf[112] : 00
rf[113] : 00
rf[114] : 01
Dr.(9 mdu 13:
v16pe1
Deo267
t_auic:1r s
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ce ai96.s555,11.
n0U_Deepept, u c
l1d (1:6cset station mode to scan test AP
scandone
TESTing scan done, status=0
~~> rescan testing AP 1
set station mode tct scandone
TESTing scan done, status=0
~~> rescan testing AP 2
set station mode t
scandone
TESTing scan done, status=0
test AP not found, start working
enter deln
AO_ elor0oa
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<dn _0_rtn0sda
write reset count 1
pcfg->remote_ctrl=01
wifi init
setup AP, repeater=0
et09b: oP04:cai
rs:p..mk...:..)n0load ssid: SmartTouch_6dfc, password: 12345678
APSTA max sta num: 3
not connecttrrcert~oml8cvofa
sosi
vn
h0BFi
4fd0bab000000000000000000000000000000
vk 4ca2b5c
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I analyzed the board and I was able to replicate the action of the button and the 2 LEDs, only 2 resistors are needed, a button and 2 LEDs, as shown in the photo.
More info:
https://fcc.report/FCC-ID/2AQSI-AKZ-M4
This is awesome info. Thanks!
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