stripped it down again
the plan was to "simply" saw 1/3" or so off the sealed end,
so the thermocouple would hang in the middle of the oven
took a hacksaw to it - no effect
looks like it's stainless steel
tried a Dremel with one of the little "parting" discs
knife through butter!
cleaned the end with the same disc
so now have a slightly shorter tube
with thermostat out in the open
tried a profile run last night
MUCH closer to the first graph (several posts ago)
close enough that the dead time seems to have gone away
so next step is to look at stirring PID control into the equation(s)
I thought your other curve followed your desired profile better.
Am guessing its not all that critical if it can be controlled by hand just rotating a temperature control knob and a thermocouple stuck it the tines of a fork to hold in place near the card being reflowed ...
further update on the probe that I had to fix
before leaving eBay feedback I emailed the vendor
very responsive - bottom line got £1.00 refund
I'm happy - the probe works and it (now) only cost me £1.52
the fix was dead easy
here's a picture of the problem/fix
the red circle shows the stainless steel outer after I cut it back
the blue circle is where the outer stopped originally
with the frayed wires shorting out the probe
mmcp42:
here's the final circuit
(went through several iterations to get there - as you do!)
and here's the triac heater control
In your circuit, what's the purpose of R5? Also, I see you have the mains hot connected to MT2 on the triac. Does it matter which way the triac is wired? Would it make a difference if MT1 went to mains hot and MT2 went to the oven?