I've got a T-1000 (terminator jokes aside) LED Controller that has the capability to cycle through 16 pre-programed LED files on the memory card. However, when the controller is in my ceiling, it's pretty difficult to push the button so I'm thinking to wire up a Arduino board with either a direct 5v or a transistor.
I've taken a couple of pictures of the board in hopes that someone could recommend how I could tackle this.
The controller takes in 5V/40A from a power supply.
If you have any suggestions, please do let me know
replacing (or connecting in parallel) the switch with an IR receiver IC and using something along the lines of what you can get from Sparkfun IR remote or something similar
vaj4088:
What does this have to do with "Replace a pushbutton with a resistor"?
Please excuse me. It was a type. I mean to write replacing a pushbutton with a relay.
gpsmikey:
Two possibilities come to mind:
a stick you can poke the button with
replacing (or connecting in parallel) the switch with an IR receiver IC and using something along the lines of what you can get from Sparkfun IR remote or something similar
For #1 - Family members may be too short #2 - Yes, precisely what I was looking to do. I just can't tell by looking at the picture HOW to do that part
Paul__B:
Well, it was something that ended with "sistor", wasn't it?
As in Twisted ?
Paul__B:
There are various radio control modules - a receiver module and transmitter unit - readily available.
The trick is to arrange the interface between this module and your controller. That requires knowledge of its internal circuitry.
I've got the IR parts and the arduino boards and can easily turn high a pin but what I don't know is from the picture, where the incoming/outgoing voltage goes and how much of it. Just looking for direction if the pictures help where would be a good starting point
eeze:
I've got the IR parts and the Arduino boards and can easily turn high a pin but what I don't know is from the picture, where the incoming/outgoing voltage goes and how much of it.
Neither do we at present. That's where the skill in reading circuits (circuit boards) comes in. There's the problem - you need to be able to do that to figure out what to do.
I was considering suggesting you simply connect wire pairs across the buttons and extend them down to a box on the wall, but that may or may not be a good idea.
The Twisted Sis(e)r was a poor joke. I realize that now
Paul__B:
Neither do we at present. That's where the skill in reading circuits (circuit boards) comes in. There's the problem - you need to be able to do that to figure out what to do.
I was considering suggesting you simply connect wire pairs across the buttons and extend them down to a box on the wall, but that may or may not be a good idea.
I don't have the skills to read the circuits but I do have a pretty clear camera if anyone is willing to take a look. Also have a volt meter that I can use.
I did try to supply 5V on the left side of the button but nothing happened. I'm at a loss for what to try next.
I did try to supply 5V on the left side of the button but nothing happened. I'm at a loss for what to try next.
That's a really bad idea. (to play Russian Roulette with electronics with absolutely no idea what you are doing. It's best not to do anything until you understand the implications.
I seem to remember seeing a radio remote control relay on the web.
raschemmel:
That's a really bad idea. (to play Russian Roulette with electronics with absolutely no idea what you are doing. It's best not to do anything until you understand the implications.
I seem to remember seeing a radio remote control relay on the web.
Since this product is made in china, I've got pretty much no information about. I have opened it up and can see the traces. It is simply a button push that triggers the system to change the program.
Given the whole controller runs on 5V, it's not dangerous is it?
No, I wasn't talking about a safety hazard to you. I was talking about it is a bad idea to use such a high input voltage to a 5V regulator because it makes it overheat. I don't know anything about your project but anyone on the forum can tell you that you should use an input voltage in the range of 7 to 9V to the barreljack, not 12V.
Do you have good fire insurance.
The last place I would place anything electronic is in a ceiling or wall cavity, where it can get covered in dust, rat, mice, possum excrement/urine (to put it politely.) etc.
That box in my opinoin belongs out of your ceiling.
You are right. I wish I would have thought of that before I bought 4 of these controllers.
I may give it a go as it's much likely easier to code a single color light for 4 strips of LED with that then the cumbersome LED program that this controller requires.
Curious how you may have done yours. Seperate power supply and the Arduino just handles the data connection to address the LED?
TomGeorge:
Hi,Do you have good fire insurance.
The last place I would place anything electronic is in a ceiling or wall cavity, where it can get covered in dust, rat, mice, possum excrement/urine (to put it politely.) etc.
That box in my opinoin belongs out of your ceiling.
Tom....
I wasn't clear. Yes, it's in the ceiling however it is a two step ceiling which allows open air into the room. I live in a tropical country but the house is concrete. No mice or possum (hopefully) Appreciate the advice, i hadn't thought of it.
raschemmel:
No, I wasn't talking about a safety hazard to you. I was talking about it is a bad idea to use such a high input voltage to a 5V regulator because it makes it overheat. I don't know anything about your project but anyone on the forum can tell you that you should use an input voltage in the range of 7 to 9V to the barreljack, not 12V.
The controller is 5V and the seller advised that I need 5V, 40A to drive the 3 strips. I can use an external power 5V, 2A or somethign to drive the controller.
Sorry. My bad. I confused yiur post with a different post. What I meant is that it' a bad idea to connect voltages to a circuit without knowing how is wired because you could damage it.
You haven't posted a link fod the seller have you ?
If he said you needed 5V 40A, a 5V 2A supply is not going to cut it.
eeze:
You are right. I wish I would have thought of that before I bought 4 of these controllers.
I may give it a go as it's much likely easier to code a single color light for 4 strips of LED with that then the cumbersome LED program that this controller requires.
Curious how you may have done yours. Seperate power supply and the Arduino just handles the data connection to address the LED?
I use the power supply to power both the arduino and leds. But, you don't have to. You have to make sure all the grounds are common. Since this is a simi permanent I also recommend fusing the strips and arduino with polyfuses. I'd run multiple runs to the strip, fusing each tap. Low voltage has just as much fire hazard if not more than line voltage.
right now I using 433mhz radios to transmit data.. but I found it slow, limited, and complicated (antenna wise) so I'm transitioning to wifi via esp8266 modules
raschemmel:
Sorry. My bad. I confused yiur post with a different post. What I meant is that it' a bad idea to connect voltages to a circuit without knowing how is wired because you could damage it.
You haven't posted a link fod the seller have you ?
If he said you needed 5V 40A, a 5V 2A supply is not going to cut it.
Here is what i'm currently powering. I've got an external brick I can use to power this thing.
Prefer to use this other powersupply that I have.
Even before I plug the thing in, If I take my multi-meter, I should be able to test for connectivity when the button is pushed right? I was thinking to even try to push 5V from the Arduino (turning a pin high) to simulate the momentary pushbutton. That is likely not going to work....
Qdeathstar:
I use the power supply to power both the arduino and leds. But, you don't have to. You have to make sure all the grounds are common. Since this is a simi permanent I also recommend fusing the strips and arduino with polyfuses. I'd run multiple runs to the strip, fusing each tap. Low voltage has just as much fire hazard if not more than line voltage.
right now I using 433mhz radios to transmit data.. but I found it slow, limited, and complicated (antenna wise) so I'm transitioning to wifi via esp8266 modules
My power supply is 5V/40A though. Won't that crush the arduino? Maybe best i just use the USB cable and an adapter?
I'm not quite sure what you mean by "fusing the stripts and arduino with polyfuses? Could you show me a picture?
I have 3 seperate 4 meter strips. When I did it last week and just ran one line frm the power supply, the 5V power cable plastic began to melt. I asked the seller, and they said I should connect the power to each strip to avoid this issue. Pretty scary.
the arduino won't draw more power than it needs, unless there is a problem. if there is a problem, 40 amps rushin through the arduino, or your strips can cause a problem.
I dont have a picture handy, but the general idea is:
+vPsu >>> Polyfuse >> +ledStrip
use 18awg copper. (bigger the better, but I wasn't able to get larger diameter wire hot enough to solder). You need to add several taps along the length of your strip. Each of the taps should be protected with a 10A fuse. you want the psu as close as possible to the strips, but in my case it wasn't practacle so I ran some 6awg from the psu to a distribution center and protect that with a 50a glass fuse.
I would add taps at the start, middle, and end of each strip. I put a 25uf capacitor between the ground and vcc of each of my strips, and it seemed to cut down on noise a little bit. I am running 70m of strip though. You may not need it,
My power supply is 5V/40A though. Won't that crush the arduino? Maybe best i just use the USB cable and an adapter?
I very concerned by the wording in your post. It could be an ESL thing, but I get the impression you have no electronics experience. If this is the case, you need to post a schematic (photo of a hand drawn schematic) so we can verify that you understand exactly what and how to connect things, as well as that you understand clearly the power supply implications. With a 5V, 40A supply, one wrong connection could spell disaster. (for your project, and there is a potential fire hazard as well)
raschemmel:
I very concerned by the wording in your post. It could be an ESL thing, but I get the impression you have no electronics experience. If this is the case, you need to post a schematic (photo of a hand drawn schematic) so we can verify that you understand exactly what and how to connect things, as well as that you understand clearly the power supply implications. With a 5V, 40A supply, one wrong connection could spell disaster. (for your project, and there is a potential fire hazard as well)
Definitely heed this advice. I'm just toying around with my arduino board tonight and will work on the diagram as well. You are correct that I have no practical electronics experience but there is a electrical guy (can't use the word electrician in my area) that I can leverage.
Qdeathstar:
the arduino won't draw more power than it needs, unless there is a problem. if there is a problem, 40 amps rushin through the arduino, or your strips can cause a problem.
I dont have a picture handy, but the general idea is:
+vPsu >>> Polyfuse >> +ledStrip
use 18awg copper. (bigger the better, but I wasn't able to get larger diameter wire hot enough to solder). You need to add several taps along the length of your strip. Each of the taps should be protected with a 10A fuse. you want the psu as close as possible to the strips, but in my case it wasn't practacle so I ran some 6awg from the psu to a distribution center and protect that with a 50a glass fuse.
I would add taps at the start, middle, and end of each strip. I put a 25uf capacitor between the ground and vcc of each of my strips, and it seemed to cut down on noise a little bit. I am running 70m of strip though. You may not need it,
Yours and raschemmel's advise point out that I don't really know what I'm doing as I don't understand the capactiors and what a "tap" is.
All I know is that if I connect my power supply out to each 4M strip that the colors and bright and vibrant. If I connect the power supply to only one spot, the wire melts and smokes.
The wire I used is bigging than the wire that came connected to the LED. But again, I think better I diagram this up
