Geekings
Obviously the chip in an arduino Uno is the Atmega 328.
If I were to get a project working on my arduino Uno that I wanted to keep the arduino in, would the following approach work?
I have done that very thing with several 328 chips. And since they have the bootloader you can program them on the breadboard through the serial port with a FDTI or by pulling the chip from the Uno and using it as a FDTI.
That works fine for me for both bootloaded 328's and Pro-mini's.. i like to put the pro-mini's and bare 328P-PU's on strip-board (Veroboard) and go on from there and as was mentioned in the other response the Uno board either with the reset disabled or the chip pulled makes a fine FTDI adapter for programming another bootloaded chip so you can continue your development on the separate target board... OR you cad break out the SPI pins to a 6 pin ISP header with power and ground connected and dispose of the bootloader completely. There are plenty of examples and as always Google is your best friend.. If searches in this Forum prove ineffective.
It is going to be less wear and tear on the socket in the UNO (though you can mount a ZIF socket into the original socket) to just load each new chip with the sketch on the breadboard using a USB to TTL adaptor (remembering to include the 0.1µF capacitor from the DTR or RTS connection to the Reset pin and the 10k pull-up).
You can even use the UNO itself as the adaptor with some jiggery-pokery.
Musicboy:
Geekings
Obviously the chip in an arduino Uno is the Atmega 328.
If I were to get a project working on my arduino Uno that I wanted to keep the arduino in, would the following approach work?
Once the code is uploaded to the Uno, pull out the Atmega 328 chip, put it on a breaboard, then reassemble the circuit for that particular project on the breadboard
Yes, but it's a lot of work compared to using a Pro Mini (which is also a Mega328 and pin-compatible with an Uno).
You can put Pro Minis in breadboards using the supplied pins.
fungus:
Yes, but it's a lot of work compared to using a Pro Mini
In what way would it be more work?
More questions on the 328 chip by itself:
Also, I assume it would be a good idea to buy some cheap 5v regulators, how sensitive is the power input?
And would I need to buy and external oscillator? I've read something about using the internal clock, how accurate would this be and how easy?
I like "Alice" - bought my first stuff from her. But no discount for quantity - same price, give or take a few cents, whichever option you pick. What is interesting is the steady reduction in price over the last year from about $4 (US) to $3 and less for some auctions from G&C and such.
More questions on the 328 chip by itself:
Also, I assume it would be a good idea to buy some cheap 5v regulators, how sensitive is the power input?
And would I need to buy and external oscillator? I've read something about using the internal clock, how accurate would this be and how easy?
The Atmega328P power input can run a little under to bout 0.5V over... But the closer to 5.0V you get and maintain the better design... Just do not forget bypass caps physically close to the uC. Bulk cap(s) needed on board unless regulator is connected with short leads and the PS only supplies one board. If multiple boards, multiple bulk caps should be used.
You need inexpensive 16MHz crystals and associated matching load capacitors, also inexpensive when purchased is quantity.
You can use the internal RC oscillator at 8MHz with fasir accuracy - good enough for 9600BAUD serial communication. It is easy, just flash the fuses and it works (boards.txt file defines the fuses so you need a core with those entries.)
Wow, what a nice price, $3 each for a functional microcontroller board! Just sent off for 5 (that I don't really need )
Get a $5 USBasp programmer and use the IDE upload using programmer option and there you go.
Wow, what a nice price, $3 each for a functional microcontroller board!
I have used TxHang for nearly 2 years and have purchased more than 50 boards, never with an issue. But, with any eBay mail order, your results may vary.
Also, be aware that while things usually go OK with long-term eBay sellers in China, you should be aware that orders placed that impact Chinese New Year celebrations (the country just shuts-down) will impact fulfillment, shipping, email status, delivery interval... You get the idea!
Wow, what a nice price, $3 each for a functional microcontroller board!
I have used TxHang for nearly 2 years and have purchased more than 50 boards, never with an issue. But, with any eBay mail order, your results may vary.
Also, be aware that while things usually go OK with long-term eBay sellers in China, you should be aware that orders placed that impact Chinese New Year celebrations (the country just shuts-down) will impact fulfillment, shipping, email status, delivery interval... You get the idea!
Ray
Yes I've maybe made 50+ purchases from China on E-bay. I've never had a problem that the seller wouldn't fix pronto, they seem to really care about their feedback ratings, which is good. I usually get delivery in 10-11 days (except for new years you mentioned). Most electronic components and modules I don't really need, but can't resist the low price and a chance to try out a new sensor or switching power module or whatever.
My most recent order was a bit of a drag though. The boards now say Sparkfun on the bottom. I preferred the generic arduino-compatibles to these counterfeits.
The auction showed pics of the basic generic boards. I guess these were on sale this week from Alice' supplier?
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