Anyone ever set a board and workings in resin? will this just break the board? just trying to think of ways to display a project
Ive set some in epoxy, worked well
a couple things you need to think about is
A) air, its not as big of a deal on perfboard, but you might want to strap a vibration motor on the back of some plywood or something to shake it out or you will get bubbles (if that bothers you, it didnt me)
B) when epoxy cures, and I am sure everything on the planet that cures, it creates heat, especially sensitive components may have issue with this (ie crystals)
I wouldn't worry too much about the heat. There's epoxy based potting material, like this one.
-j
When setting a project in epoxy, do you use a mold? What materials work for a mold?
I've never actually potted anything in epoxy. I did an acrylic-based conformal coating on a geiger counter board for a high altitude flight once, but that was just painting it on.
I've seen commercial stuff potted. It's generally in a cup-type arrangement (think a project box with no lid) and the potting compound fills the cup.
I would think any mold and a standard mold release would work.
-j
thanks, I will look into using epoxy and let you know how i get on!
I've been setting LEDs into resin. I'd have a hard time believing that a thin pour would generate more heat than soldering on parts. But I'd be more concerned about heat dissipation of the parts when the board is running if you are planning to pour directly over the circuitboard. For example, internal trace widths are specced thicker than external for the same current.
I'm very interested to hear how this turns out since I'd like to try it myself.
Other resin tips:
To minimize internal bubbles stir the resin at a slow constant rate for several minutes. You can see if you are generating bubbles because the resin will cavitate at the back of the stirring stick. This is very boring! 
After pouring, to remove all surface bubbles fire up a blowtorch and just touch the edge of the flame to the surface for an instant. It will pop all bubbles like magic! Don't keep the fire on the resin for too long though.
A wax based mold release like Carnuba will leave an opaque finish. Apply as thinly as possible. I think if you want a transparent finish your best bet is silicone spray lubricant but maybe I'm misremembering...
Sorry for the repeat post. But there's one more important thing. You want to use a resin that's made FOR display. Resins made as glue or for surfboards, etc will yellow with age (well all resins yellow with age, but some yellow less than others) and may even turn cloudy.
I've had great luck with Kleer-Kote (its the glassy finish on restaurant tabletops):
You want to use a resin that's made FOR display. Resins made as glue or for surfboards, etc will yellow with age
Resins not specifically made to be clear are likely to start off with some color, as well as a surface that is neither hard nor glossy (This is a "feature", since it helps the next layer stick better.) Many epoxies are rather brownish, for example.
If you have a TAP Plastics store near you, they'll typically have several different resins for sale, and the stores will have SAMPLES of what the cured resins look like.
When setting a project in epoxy, do you use a mold? What materials work for a mold?
I have never released from a mold, as others have said I imagine any type of cup shaped object properly prepared would do
the last thing I did was a small weak amp in a 9v battery casing, the circuit was done dead bug style and there was no other choice to flood fill it
as far as finish, yes most expoy is going to dry yellow, the cheaper it is the yellower (sulfur) the quicker it is to set the yellower, so 5 min expoy you got for a 1.99$ at *mart is going to look really yellow
vs high grade 48hour stuff, while still yellowish, is almost clear
as far as plastic resin goes I have no idea since I have never used it
and theres very little a good buffing wheel cant fix if something turns out a bit cloudy
personally I would cast a small brick or something to see how it turns out before committing to it
I used mold release or yet turtle wax for a release agent when I built a fiberglass gap cover on my experimental aircraft. I polished the mold with turtle wax, then laid my fiberglass and resin. When dried it lifted right of the mold. I don't recommend stranded fiberglass it's harder to work with than the standard patched style you'd see at an automotive store. Then I laid a coat of primer and then paint... All smooth and no buffing 