# Share tips you have come across **URL:** \ **Category:** General Electronics\ **Created:** [January 4, 2017, 7:20am UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745 "2017-01-04T07:20:57Z")\ **Posts on this page:** 20\ **Page:** 7
**Author:** ![LarryD](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/larryd/32/215550_2.png) [@LarryD](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/LarryD)\ **Post date:** [February 5, 2017, 7:05am UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/121 "2017-02-05T07:05:52Z")
![2017-02-04_23-56-08.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/a/0/f/a0f921c875438d59e7da7ef20c5bd70e2d926cd6.jpeg) . ---
**Author:** ![technogeekca](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/technogeekca/32/1098976_2.png) [@technogeekca](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/technogeekca)\ **Post date:** [February 5, 2017, 3:15pm UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/122 "2017-02-05T15:15:24Z")
> LarryD: > That would increase the current handling of a trace quite nicely. > Regular bus wire works also and surplus solder. Yes you are absolutely correct. To clarify what I didn't properly state before is that I use it on wider traces and generally wider traces that have been burnt open. This allows me with a bit of prep and cleaning to almost completely cover the burnt section so it's almost invisible. Thanks again for all your amazing tips. ---
**Author:** ![LarryD](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/larryd/32/215550_2.png) [@LarryD](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/LarryD)\ **Post date:** [February 5, 2017, 6:43pm UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/123 "2017-02-05T18:43:40Z")
When you loom your cable harnesses, the point of termination requires some thought. I prefer to use the loop method as it gives slack to the wires. If wires need to be re-terminated or moved you have the slack to do so. The eye is less forgiving when the loop method is used. ๐Ÿ˜‰ ![one.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/e/f/0/ef005f7479f74c7494eaa5cf7c52074264632cf7.jpeg) ![two.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/e/9/d/e9d56cfe92453ca55996aebe4c5e498f9f94a945.jpeg) ![three.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/1/1/0/110b26c4c7a9e995b1e169b9726ce6ce49ece399.jpeg) ![four.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/f/7/7/f77e058d26619506b89d567ef94a5cb8e4e656c1.jpeg) . ---
**Author:** ![mjward](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/m/5e9695/32.png) [@mjward](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/mjward)\ **Post date:** [February 6, 2017, 5:57pm UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/124 "2017-02-06T17:57:45Z")
Hi, A lot of great tips here, esp from Larry D--thanks, folks. Speaking of desoldering braid, I find that the performance of cheap braid can be considerably improved by applying a drop/dab of flux to the braid before use. --Michael ---
**Author:** ![LarryD](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/larryd/32/215550_2.png) [@LarryD](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/LarryD)\ **Post date:** [February 7, 2017, 8:33pm UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/125 "2017-02-07T20:33:05Z")
Update on two items mentioned: ![2017-02-07_13-24-12.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/6/8/c/68c51a6651eff7297591d8046b855c0408932ae2.jpeg) ![2017-02-07_13-24-39.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/2/e/5/2e5c74d1ddbdf38cb965cb20530f524e1e0198c4.jpeg) > Speaking of desoldering braid, I find that the performance of cheap braid can be considerably improved by applying a drop/dab of flux to the braid before use. Yes good tip. You could pre-flux the braid with liquid flux, let it dry, then use it as needed. . ![2.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/2/6/3/2637c540fde84f91f119fb97cf02c2bf43ccb946.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![LarryD](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/larryd/32/215550_2.png) [@LarryD](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/LarryD)\ **Post date:** [February 7, 2017, 8:51pm UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/126 "2017-02-07T20:51:09Z")
The conversion of two third hands into one was mentioned in a previous thread. Added it here for reference. ![2017-02-04_19-06-11.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/2/b/5/2b52dda1037725f48f423be58cd01093781ed0b1.jpeg) ![2017-02-06_0-54-48.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/3/d/7/3d79b6fe4bb6958baddb3441f3a5c41657db2735.jpeg) . ---
**Author:** ![LarryD](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/larryd/32/215550_2.png) [@LarryD](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/LarryD)\ **Post date:** [February 7, 2017, 9:08pm UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/127 "2017-02-07T21:08:29Z")
![2017-02-07_0-51-23.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/1/b/3/1b3e075528bda7f7923bfc64ceee946a3891b661.jpeg) ![2017-02-04_19-06-42.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/3/1/2/3121d573668d76a2902b879f8d4a0b91b350f1aa.jpeg) . ---
**Author:** ![LarryD](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/larryd/32/215550_2.png) [@LarryD](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/LarryD)\ **Post date:** [February 8, 2017, 3:42am UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/128 "2017-02-08T03:42:21Z")
Every now and then you need to stage a PCB so you can: - work on it with external devices - power it and test or upload software - insert PTH components for soldering By adding high-power magnets to standoffs along with a magnet base you can come up with a flexible assembly to accomplish the above. The magnet/standoff assembly is positioned on a magnetic base material. Use 4-40 and 6-32 setscrew/standoffs to accommodate different sized mounting holes. A PCB with mounting holes is positioned so the setscrews go through the PCB mounting holes. As can be seen, you can easily go from board to board just by moving the positions of the magnet assemblies. If the PCB does not have mounting holes, you can make four spring vice units to hold the PCB at the edges. Adding more standoffs and setscrews can raise the PCB to the required height. ![One.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/f/0/b/f0bd933c448b857298d62c4cfba9b31039846434.jpeg) ![Two.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/a/3/9/a397561190485cf8a19a6de311e97f66f3709ddf.jpeg) ![Three.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/3/f/7/3f735fab2df56cfa6b03efbf864aeae35c0beee2.jpeg) ![Four.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/d/c/3/dc39f45016d334ea783cb1b71b2eb7aae1fd6a34.jpeg) Badge magnet: > **[Magnetic Pin Back](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1170)** > > These magnetic pin backs have two pieces: a metal bar with adhesive strip and a plastic piece with two strong rare-earth magnets. Affix the metal bar to your FLORA projects-- it's just ... Magnet mat (you can also use a steel cookie sheet): > **[Professional Non-Slip Magnetic Project Mat](https://www.adafruit.com/product/1636)** > > Repairs can be tough. You don't need missing screws making it worse. iFixit designed this mat to make repairs easier. You wonโ€™t lose screws and wonโ€™t forget which screws go ... Rare-Earth Magnet, Cup [http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=58750&cat=1,42363,42348](http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=58750&cat=1,42363,42348) ---
**Author:** ![LarryD](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/larryd/32/215550_2.png) [@LarryD](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/LarryD)\ **Post date:** [February 8, 2017, 3:42am UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/129 "2017-02-08T03:42:27Z")
![Six.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/5/d/c/5dc2b488a0e49f3d79e54bae204328b539d3c8fc.jpeg) ![Five.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/0/4/a/04a8285ad7270c2d314645ebd87b0e75330cfde5.jpeg) . ---
**Author:** ![LarryD](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/larryd/32/215550_2.png) [@LarryD](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/LarryD)\ **Post date:** [February 11, 2017, 2:03am UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/130 "2017-02-11T02:03:07Z")
![2017-02-10_18-49-26.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/e/6/0/e60c5ae3d024b73cb9e294049d7081e68afc57f5.jpeg) Edit: For more strength, you can weld a 1/16 inch acrylic back plate to the combined headers. . ---
**Author:** ![Jiggy-Ninja](https://avatars.discourse-cdn.com/v4/letter/j/8edcca/32.png) [@Jiggy-Ninja](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/Jiggy-Ninja)\ **Post date:** [February 11, 2017, 3:06am UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/131 "2017-02-11T03:06:44Z")
> LarryD: > > ![2017-02-04_23-56-08.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/a/0/f/a0f921c875438d59e7da7ef20c5bd70e2d926cd6.jpeg) > > . Instead of just heating after twisting to lock in the curve, you can heat it up to make the insulation more pliable for further twisting. Repeat this a few times to get a _really_ nice twist. ![IMG_20170210_215700430_compressed.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/b/5/0/b504632db8b5562466e73d15437ea7041e6bbf8d.jpeg) More tightly twisted wire is more flexible and bends better than a loose spiral. ![IMG_20170210_215917437_compressed.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/2/9/e/29e87a72d7f1e4ebb4275165af89f2214d6fe624.jpeg) And yes, I checked it for continuity. There's no short in that twist. ---
**Author:** ![LarryD](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/larryd/32/215550_2.png) [@LarryD](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/LarryD)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2017, 8:05pm UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/132 "2017-02-12T20:05:07Z")
Yes, it is very interesting (almost magical) twisting and heat locking wires makes the cable . . . "More tightly twisted wire is more flexible and bends better than a loose spiral." . ---
**Author:** ![LarryD](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/larryd/32/215550_2.png) [@LarryD](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/LarryD)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2017, 8:06pm UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/133 "2017-02-12T20:06:12Z")
The following describes a typical process of making a bezel. It is very important you measure accurately and test fit before you commit to the final design. Gluing things with DCM requires a day for things to completely dry. If you do not have a CNC, you can still use the following to come up with a reasonable product. [http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=219747.0](http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=219747.0) ![One.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/3/3/3/3332098480d7e06c18516847c59300ca85647ef8.jpeg) ![Two.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/e/d/6/ed6ee125aa9864c669cda00d9220e10f9dd1f8b3.jpeg) ![Three.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/d/f/3/df3cd1fe54f22d19c2babdbadadca960e5861ee6.jpeg) ![Four.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/d/e/7/de7ee178510e1e86f253034a8fdbe0a662c2138e.jpeg) ---
**Author:** ![LarryD](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/larryd/32/215550_2.png) [@LarryD](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/LarryD)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2017, 8:06pm UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/134 "2017-02-12T20:06:18Z")
![Five.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/e/d/2/ed2f1e74e412355908a2cc767fa2ebdf791ff3c7.jpeg) ![Six.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/5/4/f/54f8b4f5320c7b03200b9586c59d36ac5d99c5c2.jpeg) ![Seven.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/4/3/1/43101edb0ae44be2d137eb0d8afd708e565ec6a7.jpeg) ![Eight.jpg](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/c/d/2/cd2aebda017fc5d58b33202ac8beb9dbb9b06d1f.jpeg) . ---
**Author:** ![TKall](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/tkall/32/218283_2.png) [@TKall](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/TKall)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2017, 8:46pm UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/135 "2017-02-12T20:46:53Z")
Which end Mills are you using for the cuts? ---
**Author:** ![LarryD](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/larryd/32/215550_2.png) [@LarryD](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/LarryD)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2017, 9:07pm UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/136 "2017-02-12T21:07:06Z")
Similar to these, usually ~ 15-20 degrees. > **[10 x 20 Degree 0 1mm Titanium Coated 1 8 PCB Engraving Bits CNC Router Tool...](https://www.ebay.ca/sch/i.html?_id=172033225643&_nkw=10%20x%2020%20Degree%200%201mm%20Titanium%20Coated%201%208%20PCB%20Engraving%20Bits%20CNC%20Router%20Tool&_sis=1)** > > Find great deals on eBay for 10 x 20 Degree 0 1mm Titanium Coated 1 8 PCB Engraving Bits CNC Router Tool. Shop with confidence. Careful: They break easily, they are very sharp, they do wear down, need replacing when the milled line is too wide, order lots. I file the point down a little on new bits using a diamond sharpening honing block. . ---
**Author:** ![TKall](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/tkall/32/218283_2.png) [@TKall](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/TKall)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2017, 9:11pm UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/137 "2017-02-12T21:11:25Z")
I thought they would be more expensive. ---
**Author:** ![LarryD](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/larryd/32/215550_2.png) [@LarryD](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/LarryD)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2017, 9:17pm UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/138 "2017-02-12T21:17:50Z")
On 64mil material (with a new bit), a cutout is 10-20 thou larger, therefore make the opening that much smaller. i.e. a 1/2 inch diameter hole would be .52 inches therefore draw it ~ .48 inches if you are OCD ๐Ÿ˜‰ The price locally is ~ $6.00 each and can only get 30 degrees here, so I order from China by the bunch ๐Ÿ˜‰ . ---
**Author:** ![LarryD](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/larryd/32/215550_2.png) [@LarryD](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/LarryD)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2017, 9:28pm UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/139 "2017-02-12T21:28:35Z")
I use a 1/4 inch to 1/8 inch collet for the reduction in the router. Similar to this: ![](https://europe1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/original/4X/6/c/a/6ca95faa5bb9f54be8e67702842bb61af5bb1dc2.jpeg) . ---
**Author:** ![TKall](https://dub1.discourse-cdn.com/arduino/user_avatar/forum.arduino.cc/tkall/32/218283_2.png) [@TKall](https://forum.arduino.cc/u/TKall)\ **Post date:** [February 12, 2017, 9:29pm UTC](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745/140 "2017-02-12T21:29:00Z")
I understand. I have been experimenting with it to get a feel for how it moves and responds to the drawing file. My focus has been narrow out of necessity. Thanks for the tips. It is fascinating. [Previous page](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745.md?page=6) [Next page](https://forum.arduino.cc/t/share-tips-you-have-come-across/428745.md?page=8)