Share tips you have come across

LarryD:
I do not care for the metal version that comes with a nut.

pert:
Why not?

Like me probably forgets to put the nut and washer on before soldering to the leads.


Tom… :slight_smile:

I love this thread, talk about great tips and tricks posted here. I definitely want to see and contribute more to this thread.

I'm going to start off with a real simple one that many of you probably already know and use but here it is anyway.

I always keep my strips of used Solder Wick and have used them for a couple of things.

1- Add solder to get rid of any of the exposed braiding and use it for ground straps. 2- Lay it down on PC Board Traces that don't seem robust enough to handle higher currents and then flood it with solder. It even works great to fix a trace that has actually fried. Done properly it looks good and well no burnt traces.

I have used the silver/chrome coloured bezels but prefer the black/matte finish of plastic.

I have not tried these yet:

As mentioned these are a good version.

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Twisting wires can help keep your projects more organized and manageable.
Twisting can cause some signal cross talk between wires, however, for short distances and the frequencies seen in Arduino projects this is usually negligible.
The images below present some ideas you might want to use in your next project.

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Hi, I use post #116 to make twisted pairs.

I SET the twist by briefly running the heat-gun up and down the twist before releasing it. It relaxes the insulation and helps to get even twist.

Tom... :)

technogeekca: I love this thread, talk about great tips and tricks posted here. I definitely want to see and contribute more to this thread.

I'm going to start off with a real simple one that many of you probably already know and use but here it is anyway.

I always keep my strips of used Solder Wick and have used them for a couple of things.

1- Add solder to get rid of any of the exposed braiding and use it for ground straps. 2- Lay it down on PC Board Traces that don't seem robust enough to handle higher currents and then flood it with solder. It even works great to fix a trace that has actually fried. Done properly it looks good and well no burnt traces.

That would increase the current handling of a trace quite nicely. Regular bus wire works also and surplus solder.

See EEVblog:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=L9q5vwCESEQ

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TomGeorge: Hi, I use post #116 to make twisted pairs.

I SET the twist by briefly running the heat-gun up and down the twist before releasing it. It relaxes the insulation and helps to get even twist.

Tom... :)

Just tried this, works well ! :)

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2017-02-04_23-56-08.jpg

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LarryD: That would increase the current handling of a trace quite nicely. Regular bus wire works also and surplus solder.

Yes you are absolutely correct.

To clarify what I didn't properly state before is that I use it on wider traces and generally wider traces that have been burnt open. This allows me with a bit of prep and cleaning to almost completely cover the burnt section so it's almost invisible.

Thanks again for all your amazing tips.

When you loom your cable harnesses, the point of termination requires some thought.
I prefer to use the loop method as it gives slack to the wires.
If wires need to be re-terminated or moved you have the slack to do so.
The eye is less forgiving when the loop method is used. :wink:

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Hi,

A lot of great tips here, esp from Larry D--thanks, folks.

Speaking of desoldering braid, I find that the performance of cheap braid can be considerably improved by applying a drop/dab of flux to the braid before use.

--Michael

Update on two items mentioned:

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Speaking of desoldering braid, I find that the performance of cheap braid can be considerably improved by applying a drop/dab of flux to the braid before use.

Yes good tip.
You could pre-flux the braid with liquid flux, let it dry, then use it as needed.

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The conversion of two third hands into one was mentioned in a previous thread.
Added it here for reference.

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Every now and then you need to stage a PCB so you can:

  • work on it with external devices
  • power it and test or upload software
  • insert PTH components for soldering
    By adding high-power magnets to standoffs along with a magnet base you can come up with a flexible assembly to accomplish the above.

The magnet/standoff assembly is positioned on a magnetic base material.
Use 4-40 and 6-32 setscrew/standoffs to accommodate different sized mounting holes.
A PCB with mounting holes is positioned so the setscrews go through the PCB mounting holes.
As can be seen, you can easily go from board to board just by moving the positions of the magnet assemblies.

If the PCB does not have mounting holes, you can make four spring vice units to hold the PCB at the edges.

Adding more standoffs and setscrews can raise the PCB to the required height.

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Badge magnet:
https://www.adafruit.com/products/1170

Magnet mat (you can also use a steel cookie sheet):
https://www.adafruit.com/products/1636

Rare-Earth Magnet, Cup
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=58750&cat=1,42363,42348

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Edit:
For more strength, you can weld a 1/16 inch acrylic back plate to the combined headers.

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LarryD:
2017-02-04_23-56-08.jpg

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Instead of just heating after twisting to lock in the curve, you can heat it up to make the insulation more pliable for further twisting. Repeat this a few times to get a really nice twist.

IMG_20170210_215700430_compressed.jpg

More tightly twisted wire is more flexible and bends better than a loose spiral.

IMG_20170210_215917437_compressed.jpg

And yes, I checked it for continuity. There’s no short in that twist.

Yes, it is very interesting (almost magical) twisting and heat locking wires makes the cable . . .

"More tightly twisted wire is more flexible and bends better than a loose spiral."

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