Share tips you have come across

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Yes, modern digital calipers are excellent - but don't buy a dirt cheapo one , which, in my experience are poorly made and inaccurate - jaws not parallel, outer and inner jaws not aligned correctly etc ...

Allan

A suggestion to create a busbar.
See discussion here:
https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=563703.0

A long male header pin can change the gender of the Dupont connector.

If +5v and GND are both needed, use red and black wires.
Red would go the even number pins.
Black would go to odd number pins.
A two pin header would then be the supply connector.

I have one bad eye and one that’s not great :frowning: .
Add a 6” X 13” X 1/8” Plexiglas safety shield to your workbench.
Two magnets hold the shield to a 403 stainless steel sheet under a silicone mat.
With the shield being 6” wide, your hands can easily get around to hold tools, etc.
Wearing a 1.5X and 2X head magnifier might be a good thing also.
And CrossRoards says wear a dust mask.

BTW, removing the drill press head, gives the full column length to adjust the height of the table work surface.

Foredom P-DP30 Drill Press:

Surgeons use snaring tools to capture and cut tissue from the body.
Taking a cue from this, make a snaring tool to hold screws while inserting or removing them.
The second image shows how to hold the tool. Separating the bead from the ball tightens the snare.
The split ring at the end of the snare prevents the snare wire from going in the tube.
The tube is filled with a ‘silicone rubber wire’ to add friction, so the pull wire is taut.

My older version used a spring to keep the pull wire taut.
It does have the advantage of not needing the split ring.

Tiger tail wire:

4.jpg

Takes ~10 minutes to make one of these.

For inserting steel bolts a magnetised screwdriver or little magnet is handy.

For non ferrous a little blob of stiff grease...

Allan

allanhurst:
For inserting steel bolts a magnetised screwdriver or little magnet is handy.

For non ferrous a little blob of stiff grease...

Allan

Magnet :o :art:

Yes.

It's those damn little M1, M2 and 2-56 screws that are a pain for me.
Arthr in hands doesn't help. :frowning:

larryd:
It's those damn little M1, M2 and 2-56 screws that are a pain for me.
Arthr in hands doesn't help. :frowning:

Same here , neuropathy in the hands.
Tom.... :neutral_face:

Old age = Golden years :confused:

Many project plastic boxes have integrated mounting standoffs.
These are great as they provide mounting for PCBs without the need to drill through to the exterior.
A little preparation is necessary to use this kind of enclosure.

If you don't have the exact enclosure measurement:
On transparency mylar material, mark centers for standoff holes and cut to the final size for a mounting panel, if one is used.
Transfer the centers and outline to 1.5mm acrylic material, cut out this outline.
Transparency mylar
Hammon 1599 plastic enclosure
Hammond 1599 PDF

larryd:
Old age = Golden years

My brother points to all the white hair in his beard.
He asks "You know what this means?" and answers "Good Credit"

And partially back on topic: WOW @larryd, you have documented more tips and tricks than I will ever be fortunate enough to use. Great job!

He asks "You know what this means?" and answers "Good Credit"

And I'd add "Lower car insurance...."

And I'd like to add my thanks and amazement at the number and quality of clever tips - well done Larry.

Allan

Oh, I love this thread! :slight_smile:
I've set alerts on, so I don't miss any new post.
Thank you Larry for so many inspirations!

Appreciate the comments.
It’s great to have the opportunity to share things that necessity breeds.
As so many here do, I have always tried to share in the learning process.