Share tips you have come across

Keep your often used breadboard parts organized use stacking screw jars.
Go vertical :wink:

I think they also sell these at fishing stores for hook storage.

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=64690&cat=1,43325,43326,64690

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LarryD: I have put 4 dabs of clear silicone glue at the bottom corners of a box. Place four 1/4" nuts on top of wax paper used as spacers (not where the silicone will touch). Invert the box on top of the nut spacers and waxed paper. The weight of the box compresses the glue evenly to the height of the nut spacers. Let dry.

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Talking about something like this?: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Liquid-Nails-2-5-oz-Clear-Small-Projects-Silicone-Adhesive-LN-207/202203979

I have a laptop that's missing a footpad or two, sounds like a better way to replace them than hot melt.

Jiggy-Ninja: Talking about something like this?: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Liquid-Nails-2-5-oz-Clear-Small-Projects-Silicone-Adhesive-LN-207/202203979

I have a laptop that's missing a footpad or two, sounds like a better way to replace them than hot melt.

Similar product. |500x500

When you need a USB ‘A’ connector added to a panel/bezel, you can use inexpensive PC connectors.
These usually are sold two on a metal frame slot for about $3.00
http://www.avadirect.com/Dual-USB-Ports-PC-Case-Slot-Bracket-10-pin-Connector-7-Inch-White/Product/6650215

Cut off the plastic housing equal to the thickness of the panel.

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I am now using a homemade version of the above.
It uses a USB ‘A’ female cable connector which is glued/stabilized to the panel.

USB female ~18 cents each:
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/10Pcs-USB2-0-Type-A-Plug-4-pin-female-Adapter-Connector-jack-Black-Plastic-Cover-/400804253915?hash=item5d51cb90db:g:j98AAOSwcF9UYHmb

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Sooner or later you will need to make a rectangular hole for an LCD or other component in one of your projects.
A CNC machine takes about 8 seconds to do this.

If you don’t have access to a CNC machine, you can make reasonable rectangular holes by hand.
Tools you will need:

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Auger bit file:
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,320,43072,43089&p=70693

The key to doing a good job is to use four jointed hardwood guides.

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Chain Drilling.
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After drilling holes in the material, work from the back of the material.
You may want to apply masking tape to the exposed front surface to protect it from scratching.

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Edit:
Also see post 199

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1 Like

Note: if you have a flush cut bit and router, you can avoid all but the corner filing at the last image in post 185.

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This is my favorite thread here Larry!

A white pencil from any colored pencil set marks programmable chips so you can tell which one is which. Skip the letters that look too much like numbers (I, L, S, U, etc.):

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Thanks Chris. Got to get more GrayHairedOldPixxers to contribute.

At first glace these are a bit clunky, but if your hands shake . . .

I like these because they give you somewhere to brace your hand for those difficult to get to parts.

http://www.eevblog.com/forum/beginners/better-than-%28un%29helpful-hands/

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LarryD: If you don’t have access to a CNC machine, you can make reasonable rectangular holes by hand. Tools you will need:

Let me introduce you to Nibbler...

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Wait. Not that Nibbler. This nibbler... https://www.google.com/search?q=nibbler+hand+tool

ChrisTenone:
A white pencil from any colored pencil set marks programmable chips so you can tell which one is which.

Some cheap finger nail polish also works for marking chips. (Some does not adhere.)

LarryD: Note: if you have a flush cut bit and router, you can avoid all but the corner filing at the last image in post 185.

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If you have one of these https://www.transtools.co.uk/accessories/router-cutters/base-plates-and-guide-bushes/silverline-guide-bush-set-10-piece

and use the smallest one it makes the corner radius much smaller and easier to file.

Yes, the nibbler is great for this kind of stuff too.
I use mine mainly for holes in aluminum and FR4 material.
It’s getting old but still works well.
I took off the top screw and spring for more accessibility.

For plastics, I stick with the above method CNC :wink:

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You can also label your I.C.s with ‘Post-it 658’ tape, cut to size.
It is: self adhesive, writable and easily removable (same glue as on Posit-Notes).

Here

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Boardburner2:
If you have one of these
https://www.transtools.co.uk/accessories/router-cutters/base-plates-and-guide-bushes/silverline-guide-bush-set-10-piece

and use the smallest one it makes the corner radius much smaller and easier to file.

I have one of those sets, but I have never used it :confused:

I was thinking of something like this, no filing except in the corners:

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These were shown on other threads, posted here for reference.
Print the attached PDFs on gum labels and stick to surface.

UNO:
2017-02-21_9-14-51.jpg

Bobuino:

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1 to 1.pdf (515 KB)

Atmega 1284 Label.pdf (174 KB)

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Using a template with different collars allows the same template to be multipurpose.

That particular one can do 2 sizes of LED display and ventillation holes

What is the material you are using Larry.

It appears to be laminate mounted on some type of wood.

It is laminate flooring. (I wouldn’t use it on the floor though)

The core is hardboard.
They are 4 feet by 8 inches @ 1/4" thick, tongue & groove.
I think there are 12 pieces in a box.
Both the top and bottom have a hard coating that double stick (double sided) tape adheres to as if it were put on glass.

I bought a box just to make templates.
After they are put through a jointer, cut them into one inch 4 foot long strips (mark the jointed edge).
Use the strips as outlines for openings or to make templates like you showed.
It takes and keeps a great edge.

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Further to post 186.

If the edges need to be fine tuned use a less aggressive glass finger nail file to do so.

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