Watcher:
How about hot glue, from glue sticks ?
I would like to know that too. I have certainly seen a lot of hot glue in commercial products. On the other hand, it is often very hard to find a datasheet for hot glue (not even for brand stuff like Steinl) and you never know what is in the batch at hand. Might work with one and fail with another. I like to use black one lately, because it looks better, but color adds another factor of uncertainty.
I have also used hot glues.
There are several consistencies available.
If the areas are perfectly flat, tape works well and is reversible.
Silicone glue is my favourite, but is difficult to remove.
Hot glue is more easily removed when needed, but does not adhere as well as silicone.
Glues are good for non flat areas such as soldered pads, terminals, switch leads etc.
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If you're looking for a self-adjusting wire stripper, avoid one where the cutting head has inset blades in the "mandibles" (can't think of anything else to call them).
The blade destroys several strands of stranded wire no matter what I do, and on solid-core wire it's just as likely to pull the wire through the insulation as it is to pull the insulation off. The tension adjust knob is worthless, and needs to be almost completely unscrewed to make any real difference. The knob is also not captive, so you can take it completely off and let the spring fall out if you want (three cheers for removable and easily losable parts!). On any tension setting except "bare minimum before the knob falls out", there's at least a 50% chance of cutting straight through 22-gauge solid-core instead of stripping it. Squeezing it has a raspy quality that feels like nails on a chalkboard.
If you couldn't tell by now, I hate this tool. It is literally useless at performing what should be its primary function. Free would still not be cheap enough for this tool to be worth it.
No, if you're going to get one, get the style where the "mandibles" are solid molded chucks of metal. Literally everything bad about the previous style is good in this one. The tension adjust actually makes a difference, the adjustment screw is captive, the mandible edge doesn't nick or damage the wire, and the squeezing feels much smoother and doesn't give make shivers crawl up my spine.
I'm also not a fan of the "muncher" style. The blades are similar to the first style and damage the wire, and I can't figure out what difference any setting on the alleged "tension adjust" knob makes. The wire cutter is good though.
"can't think of anything else to call them"
Friday the 13th killing weapon.
For smallish wire mentioned above, I love these.
Available in many wire sizes:
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I'm also not a fan of the "muncher" style. The blades are similar to the first style and damage the wire, and I can't figure out what difference any setting on the alleged "tension adjust" knob makes. The wire cutter is good though.
I have the good kind and they also have a small adjustment for the tension / wire gauge. (12 years and still not quite worked it out either LOL)
Best thing I have ever had and they also allow me to tap into a wire anywhere along the length too as most insulation squeezes apart without damaging the copper.
Made some pretty nice "tap ins" using them.
German made and the quality shines and yes the cutter works well as does the crimper section.
larryd:
I don't think I've seen these in this thread before. Are the Dupont-to-breadboard just tinned stranded wire on the "breadboard" end?
You can use Dupont to Dupont but the 'rule for me' says not to use Dupont in the holes at the center of the breadboard.
I always use Duponts in female headers.
I am referring to them as 'Dupont to breadboard': Dupont on one side and #24 wire twisted and tinned on the other.
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Keep your small parts in check with double stick/sided tape or with new 'Gel Cell Anti Slip Pad' technology.
Gel cell sticky pads can be used over and over again, just wash them under water.
https://www.amazon.ca/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=gel+cell+sticky+pad
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I always use Duponts in female headers.
Any tips on easy stripping/crimping / installing of Duponts on multiple wires?
Watcher:
Any tips on easy stripping/crimping / installing of Duponts on multiple wires?
These ones are #26 AWG and are quite easy to make.
Just make sure you have equal lengths stripped in the pin that has the two wires.
You may have caught this PDF already in post #28.
http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=376971.msg2599211#msg2599211
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I would pay a lot for some of Larry's Spare Time 
Also his persistence and willingness to share!
What's great about this community is that volunteers do share their skill sets.
Further to post #336.
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32173&cat=1,43326
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Made this thread sticky as I found it really usefull !
The use of a 'Solder Pot' was mentioned in post #336, someone asked what this was.
After the solder liquefies (~ 10 minutes), do not move the pot.
Unplug the pot when you finish your work.
Takes about 2 hours before it is safe to move.
Once the water is gone the Solder Pot is dangerous!
Should be 390'C
Skim ‘dross’ with a dry, wide bladed screw driver.
With a rag, wipe off solidified solder from the end of the screw driver.
Skim surface as needed.
Unplug the pot when you finish your work.
Takes about 2 hours before it is safe to move.
FYI
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Mentioned this in the 'Bar Sport forum'
This makes a great addition to your work bench.
There are several versions available on eBay.
This version is made up of 2 silicone mats.
There are storage cells for items, I added some magnetic bottoms on a few of the larger cells.
The smaller cells are good for SMD devices.
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