Shorted Wemos D1 mini pin to 10V, is it dead?

Hi,

accidentally shorted out D1 mini pin, I'm not sure, but I guess it shorted D5 or D6 to 10V rail on my stepper driver. :cry:

No USB recognition in device manager (as if nothing plugged in), is it dead? :o

Did you see smoke?
That'd be a guaranteed death.
Otherwise it's just highly likely.
Good thing they're so cheap you have to buy them a few at a time to not pay more in shipping than in boards :slight_smile:

wvmarle:
Did you see smoke?
That'd be a guaranteed death.
Otherwise it's just highly likely.
Good thing they're so cheap you have to buy them a few at a time to not pay more in shipping than in boards :slight_smile:

No, no smoke at all, but USB unplug sound played in my laptop when I shorted and now no response from it, no on board light as well, If you know any tip how to make it work again (if it's even possible) - please share.
US $2.75 isn't so bad, but shipping from China takes ages. Yes, I knew I should buy more than one last time...

What is best ESP8226 module version? I need all usable pins (I read somewhere that D1 mini does not provide all available pins, ESP32 is overkill for what I need)

There are in total 11 digital pins including the two Serial (TX/RX) plus one analog. A few more are in use by the internal flash; there exist ways to free one or two of those as well. Never tried it myself. The NodeMCU boards do break out those pins at the cost of a roughly double size board.

I'm still curious (from learning standpoint) what happened to my D1 mini, is it possible that only esp8226 module died, but rest board is fine? Tho nothing happens when I plug it in. I'm almost up to adventure to purchase only 8226 module and try to replace it, just for learning purpose, I know its waste of time...

As your USB doesn't react I guess that means the USB to TTL chip is broken.

Very likely though that the ESP8266 chip is broken, too. Or at the very least the pin(s) that got to endure 10V, but not much hope for the rest of that chip.

It may be possible to get check whether the ESP8266 is working by connecting 3.3V directly to its Vcc and GND pins. Upon startup the built-in blue LED flashes briefly. Just hold two wires against those pins and see what happens. If no blue flash, not likely it's still working at all.

wvmarle:
As your USB doesn’t react I guess that means the USB to TTL chip is broken.

Very likely though that the ESP8266 chip is broken, too. Or at the very least the pin(s) that got to endure 10V, but not much hope for the rest of that chip.

It may be possible to get check whether the ESP8266 is working by connecting 3.3V directly to its Vcc and GND pins. Upon startup the built-in blue LED flashes briefly. Just hold two wires against those pins and see what happens. If no blue flash, not likely it’s still working at all.

THANK YOU!!!

3.3V trick worked - resurrected it from the dead, yey :smiley:

I tried plugging it to 5V before, but nothing. I didn’t had any hope at this point, but tried it anyway, I plugged it to my laptop – nothing as before (no USB sound, no device was seen in device manager), but I took my UNO and pined its 3.3V output to ESP8266 ans It flashes, USB sound appeared and now its seems it works as before, even when I pulled 3.3v away…
Made my day :smiley:

UPDATE:
D5 pin is dead and ESP8266 chip becomes very hot soon after plugging it in, but code works on other pins. Tried making Pin D5 as INPUT, INTPUT_PULLUP, OUTPUT (low/high), still getting almost unbearably hot to the touch, any ideas? :smiley:

Wow, more than I ever expected! I thought your USB-TTL chip would be dead, so bypass that and power it directly. Then maybe you could rescue the ESP8266 chip.

Your D5 pin is dead, very dead. If that's all, you're really lucky. I'd say disable it (on the physical level: cut off the pin from the PCB so you can't accidentally connect something to it and fry the rest), and just use the other pins.

wvmarle:
Wow, more than I ever expected! I thought your USB-TTL chip would be dead, so bypass that and power it directly. Then maybe you could rescue the ESP8266 chip.

Your D5 pin is dead, very dead. If that's all, you're really lucky. I'd say disable it (on the physical level: cut off the pin from the PCB so you can't accidentally connect something to it and fry the rest), and just use the other pins.

I guess it is still usable, at least until I get another one, but it gets way too hot to use it in final project (my guess is that D5 internally shorted out), I never noticed, is it normal it to get hot? Plus I didn't check wireless part. Anyway, was fun to dig in to it, thanks for participating.

Last question: will ESP8266 ESP-07 (I need external antenna) chip work if I solder it on D1 mini board?

It should not get hot - at all.
If it gets hot even if you don't use pin D5 (didn't read that part too well before) it's pretty seriously fried and likely to overheat sooner or later. You may also get all kinds of other unexpected side effects.

Last question: will ESP8266 ESP-07 (I need external antenna) chip work if I solder it on D1 mini board?

No idea. I think it's an ESP12 module that's on the D1 board. There may be more wrong with it, of course.