smd component using glue ???

so i have a 5*7mm surface mount oscillator .
the thing says that applying too much heat to it can ruin it fast .
it is a 4 pin oscillator .

can i make 4 drops of solder , then stick the part on the with super glue ? ??
like i would apply glue to the center of the chip , so the solder would be in contact with the copper pins without soldering them directly there .
would that be possible ?

You have to solder it.
use flux.
use 60/40 solder.
use hot clean iron
solder it fast, let cool between different connections.

ok thank you sir . i have an old soldering iron . i have no idea on the specifications of it . can i use it ? or should i buy an other ?

can it be done without flux ?

I dont follow...

What do the 4 drops of solder do ?

Do you mean you're just going to push the oscillator pins on to the drops then hold it there with glue ?

If so... please no

Connectivity today = great
Heat expansion/contraction tomorrow = not great

In lieu of hearing about some 'super-glue' process I've not heard of I'd suggest the glue will be a mess once you get any heat near it also.

SMD components have been made to accommodate some heat, otherwise how could they be soldered ... They usually have a heat profile in the data sheet that specifies how long your oven should be on for and at what heats (the 'profile'). As you're probably aware, you don't have a hope in hell of following that with a soldering iron on one pin at a time.

But you can at least try :slight_smile:

Do pre-tin the pads.

Heat one - place the (clean) part close to perfect - make connection (even if it's crappy you can rework it later)

now it's in mechanical connection align the rest of the pins 'perfectly' (yes, the original pin will bend a little)

Solder the rest

(revisit the original if you need to)

Suck it and see!

I've done plenty of complete boards this way (maybe 100's now), never had a xtal fail on me

can it be done without flux ?

Well yes, if you had to in a pinch - but assuming you're going to be doing more SMD, please get some flux :slight_smile:

Who knows, gluing it down hard It might actually work... for a while.

I had a part to solder, it was 2mm x 3mm, with pads underneath:

I tried to solder it, but it didn't make good connections. So kept trying and trying and then:

I had bought a second chip and a second board, so I tried again. But the pads still didn't all make connections. I kept at it, trying to push solder underneath them. Eventually, with care and luck, I got it to work:

After that, I bought a smaller tip for my iron, smaller diameter solder and a flux pen. When I made a second one of these boards it was easier. But still not easy.

thank you very much 1:1 :slight_smile: that was valuable help .
Jboyton yeah that's exactly the case , thank you very much .

do they pay you people to help others on the forum ? damn , in my county here you need to pay decent amounts of money for such support .

You need to use flux.
See some YouTube videos.


Well those style parts are really meant for at least solder paste through a mask and an oven. I'm not sure my advice is exactly relevant, still though if the pads are long enough like in the photo, jboyton has proved the method :slight_smile:

Now I've seen the pics I really do recommend flux.

do they pay you people to help others on the forum ? damn , in my county here you need to pay decent amounts of money for such support .

That's a good question. I can't speak for anyone but myself, but I enjoy it. Sometimes there's a puzzle to solve. Other times it's just something I know that I can give as a gift to someone stuck with a problem. There's an intrinsic reward there. And often I end up learning about something I wouldn't have otherwise.

Also, it's a two-way street. People here have helped me enormously.

Hot air works wonder for parts like that. Flux the pads. Tin the pads. Flux the pads again, flux the bottom of the part. Set the hot air to about 300 C. That’s “too hot” but the parts never get that hot really, only the air. Melt the solder, back off the air, and then use tweezers to place the part on the molten solder pads. Use tweezers to move the part back and forth. It should “grip” to the pads because of surface tension. You move it a bit to the side and it will come back, as long as the solder is molten. Once it looks good and centered, back off. I do this all the time, it works great.

Done a fair amount of work with solder paste then heat gun (with small nozzle attachment)...

There's so much flux in the paste that you can get away with smearing like in the image below... As has mentioned, surface tension is your friend - i.e. FLUX is your friend :wink:

That's way too much paste and risks bridging between the pads. You need very little solder
paste, something like 0.1mm thick layer on a pad is plenty.

The easy way to surface mount is via a laser-cut stencil, so you can squeegee the solder
paste onto all the pads, then place components and stick in a modified $30 toaster oven...

Hot air is great for repair, but don't move the components as the solder solidifies, that's
the way to create dry-joints.... Examine with a lens afterwards to check there's a miniscus
of solder between each pad and pin...

I don't understand the hot air approach. Wouldn't a tiny part just blow away? And wouldn't the hot air loosen up nearby components on a densely populated board?

There are conductive epoxies, but they are not in your average hobbyists tool kit, some some form of soldering will work best.

Those little 4-pin oscillators can be soldered by hand - they're significantly less unpleasant to solder than that 8-pin package someone else posted. The oscillators have a bit of metal on the outer edge, instead of it all being only on the bottom. This makes life much easier. I'd put a bit of solder onto one of the corners, position the part with tweezers in one hand, then solder that corner with the other. It shouldn't be hard to get that corner soldered. Then, put some no clean gel flux (just a bit) in each corner where you'll be soldering it, and then solder them, putting the tip of the iron on the pad on the PCB, so the heat won't really start getting to the part until the solder melts and contacts the part, at which point you'll stop applying heat anyway cause it's done.

As for soldering iron, is it temperature controlled? It doesn't need to be really tightly controlled, but it's gotta have some sort of temp control. Either electronic, or old-school magnetic control like old wellers used is fine.
If you don't have such an iron, I recommend getting a used teal blue weller soldering iron on ebay (this encompasses a wide range of quality soldering irons, from magnetic ones to digital electronic controlled.). They last forever and work great - the gold teal standard for soldering irons. And the low tech ones aren't that expensive on ebay. It's a crying shame they're not made anymore.

Conductive epoxy, glue, and paint all suck. The internal resistance is high and inconsistent, and they're lousy as glues as well. Some (particularly the more expensive ones) suck less than others, but I would never use them unless absolutely necessary.

That is not the case here - everything is damaged by excessive heat, the key word being "excessive"; heat required to solder it down so that it can be used is not excessive (ffs, it's designed to go through a reflow oven with lead-free solder!), otherwise the part would be pretty useless.