Ok, so i was building simple LED decoration for a product with 5v RGB LED strip connected to digital pin 7 and 12v static LED connected directly to adapter (in parallel with arduino power). I'm using 12v 2A adapter connected to 12v static LED and arduino barrel jack. The 5v RGB LED strip power is connected to 5v pin in Arduino Uno. I'm using 16 lamp in my 5v RGB strip and i'm using arduino uno CH340.
When i try it for the first time the project was work fine, the 12v static LED strip is turned on and the 5v RGB strip is animated like the program uploaded. But when i integrate it to the product and i solder everything, smoke coming from arduino IC below the crystal oscillator. The text on the IC says CH340. Here's the image of the arduino and the smoking IC : arduino-uno hosted at ImgBB — ImgBB
I'm making 20 of the product and only 2 of them smoked and the 18 others work fine. Anyone has any idea what is wrong with it ? Is it my fault ? (maybe i shorted something) or is it manufacturing defect ? I would appreciate all the adivce you gave me.
I'm new to this forum, and sorry for my bad english
edit : the smoke is last for a couple of seconds, but the arduino still didnt work (the LEDs arent lit) and i cant upload program to the arduino
A knockoff Uno getting powered by 12V through a "static LED strip" to the barrel jack (and regulator) as well as USB also runs a 5V led strip with 16 leds, what could go wrong?
The static LED strip (you only mentioned STRIP halfway through the post) will drop 12V to something less, but what? We don't know, have no clue at all, like it's not important at all.
So what V goes into the barrel jack? At least 7V? Maybe, maybe not!
A 5V led strip with 16 leds... are they RGB leds that have 3 junctions each and may draw a lot of current each?
It's a bad idea to pull much power through a good Uno, and you make 20 of these.
Gee no, I see nothing wrong. Perhaps that is due to lack of information. I hope that more thought went into the build.
Thank you for quick response. Sorry, i'm a programmer and i have basic understanding in electronics. I just program the micro and plug everything in appropriate pin hehehehe.
Here's the image of LED i used : led hosted at ImgBB — ImgBB
The white one is 12v LED ( i use 6 segmen of 3 LEDs in my project ) and the other is 5v RGB LED ( i use 16 LEDs ).
Here's the schematic : schem hosted at ImgBB — ImgBB (it's my first time making breadboard schematic hehe)
The product is visual display for advertisement and it suppose to be turned on for 8 - 12 hours a day. I already tested it for 2 days (48 hours) and it work fine, the electronic get a bit warm. So, if there's something wrong with the electronics will the electronic fail in a short period of time ?
I already tried subcontracting the electronics but it cost 5 times more.
Do not power the Arduino via the "barrel jack" or "Vin" or "Raw"connections. Just don't!
The clear blunder is not comprehending what the "Vin" or "RAW" terminal is. The regulator on the Arduino UNO/ Nano/ Pro Mini/ Mega2560/ Leonardo/ Pro Micro has very little heatsink, so will not pass very much current (depending on the input voltage and thus, how much voltage it has to drop) before it overheats and (hopefully reversibly) shuts down. It is essentially a novelty provided in the very beginning of the Arduino project when "9V" power packs were common and this was a practical way to power a lone Arduino board for initial demonstration purposes. And even then it was limited because an unloaded 9 V transformer-rectifier-capacitor supply would generally provide over 12 V which the regulator could barely handle.
Nowadays, 5 V regulated switchmode packs are arguably the most readily available in the form of "Phone chargers" and switchmode "buck" regulators are cheap on eBay so these can be fed into the USB connector or 5 V pin to provide adequate power for most applications. Unfortunately, many tutorials or "instructables" are seriously outdated or misleading and have not been updated to reflect the contemporary situation.
As per post #5, it is likely that the voltage regulator on the clone Uno board failed and allowed greater than 5 volts to be applied to circuitry on the Uno including the CH340 (USB to serial chip) and the Atmega328 (the microcontroller itself) thus destroying both.
There are at least three reasons this might have happened.
Some generic clone boards have substandard regulators and they do not tolerate the input voltage range for which they are specified.
Your 12 volt power supply isn't well regulated and puts out higher than the specified voltage.
The power handling capability of the voltage regulator was exceeded. The power will be (Vin-5V)*input current and the regulator chip's power rating may be derated well below the top datasheet value due to poor heat sinking.
A more robust design would use an external switch mode down converter to take the 12V power and convert it to 5 V to supply the Uno.
fateseeker:
I'm using 16 lamp in my 5v RGB strip and i'm using arduino uno CH340.
So that's 16 * 50 = 800 mA total draw when all fully on.
I'm making 20 of the product and only 2 of them smoked and the 18 others work fine.
First of all: the Uno is for prototyping. The Nano and Pro Mini form factors are for "product".
The other 18 may work as expected, they almost certainly don't work fine - drawing up to 800 mA plus the 100 mA or so for the Uno itself is up to 900 mA through your little regulator. No way that can "work fine". Even at 1/4 that current your regulator WILL overheat.
Indeed a buck converter is a good solution in this case. Or a second, 5V power supply (just about any mobile phone charger will be able to supply the minimum required 1A) keeping the 12V supply for your static LED strip and the 5V to power the LEDs and the Arduino (with separate connections to the power supply, and 5V to the 5V pin of the Arduino).
wvmarle:
First of all: the UNO is for prototyping. The Nano and Pro Mini form factors are for "product".
I didn't get around to mentioning that - figured I would wait until the OP came back, but I like that way of explaining it and will be using that in future.
I have blown a couple diodes on NANO's.
Since the smoke can come out sideways, and the USB chip is in the vicinity of the power supply on the board, some testing would be in order to see what is working and what is not. If there was no USB plugged in, the USB chip would have less places to short out.
Regardless of what actually happened, sadly, Sparkfun discontinued sales of the Magic Smoke Refil Kit
I did some research to see if I could replicate it. The crystalline structure of the silicon that makes up the chips seem to crystallize in a tetrahedron form. The Angular lattice of the silicone vaporizes, but the structure remains partially intact.
By a rather complicated osmosis process, it might be able to be replenished. The best I could figure is that it would be a process of
