TonyWilk:
Perf board can often be difficult to solder (especially if it's been sat on the shelf a while) - consider investing in some liquid reworking flux, just a tiny amount wiped on can make it so much easier.
Thanks! I'll look into this one too.
artisticforge:
I use very thin solder. The solder I use is perhaps the width of 2 human hairs.
The one I use is 0,8mm. I now browsed our local component store, and they stock 0,38mm. The thinnest I found online was 0,3mm. What is the size of the one you are using? Are you ordering it online?
When soldering perf board I use a fine point soldering tip.
I have this solder,
http://www.mpja.com/Mini-Solder-Station-ZD-99/productinfo/15860+TL/
it was recommended by somebody for this kind of work when I started few years ago. (Had a break after initial bad experiences of soldering.) It seems to have a 1/32" tip, which is 0,8mm. It seems this model does not have finer replacement tips available.
What would be fine point tip? It seems Weller has 0,25mm tips.
My soldering station has temperature control I can dial in the temperature.
Mine has temperature control too, but I find it difficult to find what would be the exact temperature I should use. Now it is set to approx 325'C. This seems high for me, but with lower it seems that the tin is not liquidifying.
Use the least amount of solder that you possibly can.
Here I guess some practice will help...
use solder flux when un soldering parts.
a good vacuum solder sucker is necessary
use solder wick if you do not have a solder sucker.
Flux I have not used, will have to look into that. I have both wick and a sucker. I don't know if my sucker is good or not. Here practice will probably also help. It seems that using the solder to liquidify and then using the sucker at the same time is not very easy to do. It seems I am missing hands. (Sure, I have helping hands. Maybe my real problem is working lights). Applies for wicking too.
mikko:
The one I use is 0,8mm. I now browsed our local component store, and they stock 0,38mm. The thinnest I found online was 0,3mm. What is the size of the one you are using? Are you ordering it online?I have this solder,
http://www.mpja.com/Mini-Solder-Station-ZD-99/productinfo/15860+TL/
it was recommended by somebody for this kind of work when I started few years ago. (Had a break after initial bad experiences of soldering.) It seems to have a 1/32" tip, which is 0,8mm. It seems this model does not have finer replacement tips available.
What would be fine point tip? It seems Weller has 0,25mm tips.
Mine has temperature control too, but I find it difficult to find what would be the exact temperature I should use. Now it is set to approx 325'C. This seems high for me, but with lower it seems that the tin is not liquidifying.
Here I guess some practice will help...
Flux I have not used, will have to look into that. I have both wick and a sucker. I don't know if my sucker is good or not. Here practice will probably also help. It seems that using the solder to liquidify and then using the sucker at the same time is not very easy to do. It seems I am missing hands. (Sure, I have helping hands. Maybe my real problem is working lights). Applies for wicking too.
I use this solder.
Mudder 0.3 mm Lead Free Solder Wire Sn99 Ag0.3 Cu0.7 with Rosin Core for Electrical Soldering
I have a spool of thinner Lead Free Solder but the label has fallen off. it is the same alloy.
Sn99 Ag0.3 Cu0.7
I had a friend who was jeweler and he would give me his remnants of jeweler solder and silver solder.
He died last year.
this is one of my soldering stations
Aoyue 866 SMD Digital Hot Air Rework Station
This is the other one
Aoyue 968A+ SMD Digital Hot Air Rework Station
I like the flexible arm magnifying glass with the ring of LED around it.
I use 0.8mm solder for quite a lot of things (I do repair older electronics) and 0.46mm for newer projects - that's only for thru-hole. For surface-mount it's always paste from a syringe.
Personally, I don't think I could work with anything thinner than 0.46mm - but it really is a preference and 'preferred technique' sort of thing.
I've seen guys using really thin solder and they seem to do a 'heat it up and feeeeed it in', whereas I think I'm a 'heat it up and dab some on' kinda guy. Has sort-of-parallels to MIG vs. TIG if you've done some welding.
Yours,
TonyWilk
TonyWilk:
I use 0.8mm solder for quite a lot of things (I do repair older electronics) and 0.46mm for newer projects - that's only for thru-hole. For surface-mount it's always paste from a syringe.Personally, I don't think I could work with anything thinner than 0.46mm - but it really is a preference and 'preferred technique' sort of thing.
I've seen guys using really thin solder and they seem to do a 'heat it up and feeeeed it in', whereas I think I'm a 'heat it up and dab some on' kinda guy. Has sort-of-parallels to MIG vs. TIG if you've done some welding.
Yours,
TonyWilk
The thinner stuff is the way to go, feeeding in solder gives you great control.
I use 0.7 or 0.5, usually 0.7 for general PCB, 0.5 for SMD.
With thinner stuff you don't need a large soldering iron, as the thin solder does not sink way heat as it melts.
If you are using vero / strip board, straight out of its bag I clean it in Isopropyl.
If it doesn't look nice and shiny, a Brillo pad or steel wool quickly removes the tarnish.
Tom... 