soldering to perfboard

Forum 2005-2010 (read only) Hardware Development
1

hello

is it just me or does anyone else find soldering to perfboard a pain in the inputs?

compared to say soldering to a nice pro or good DIY PCB, which is what i'm used to as most my projects are kit stuff

the solder invariably runs along the track further than i want blocking the adjacent hole or worse it runs over into the next track

i'd consider myself pretty good with an iron (for components not shirts) ... perhaps not!

any tips?

jim

2

I have had really crappy results using copper-faced perf-board such as the stuff from radio shack and I've had great results using better quality boards - these are usually pre-tinned with a solder-mask screened on.

The copper boards are not hopeless if you're careful soldering but the others are so much better that it's not worth bothering.

3

Oh ok thanks, good to know!

Yup the ones I've used are copper-faced from "Maplins" - more or less the equivalent of Radio Shack here in the UK.

Do you have a link to what you mean by better quality ones so I know what to look for over here?

Thanks
Jim

4

I use these lot.
I like how it has a plane surrounding the pads on one side, useful when you need to connect a lot of things to something else.
I also like how it is a similar size to an arduino.

5

I have never had an issue with protoboard/perfboard/stripboard.

The trick with stripboard so it only goes over the component in that spot is to do it quickly. If you do hold it on for two long then the solder can run to other holes as you have experienced.

Mowcius

6

I use the radio shack boards all the time, works fine, just like any other bare copper board you need to clean them with a little abrasive or pencil eraser before going at it, or add some extra flux

but really 3 swipes with a green scrubby and its just like soldering to brand new copper

7

I also have never had an issue with protoboard / perfboard / stripboard. Make sure the tip of the iron is in the hole making contact with the component lead and the copper. Melt the solder on the junction of these three points. Don't use too much solder.

If you are having trouble with this then bend and trim the component leg so it lies flat against the copper. Apply the iron to the top of the component leg and melt the solder on the leg / copper strip junction.

8

Hi

Thanks all

For some reason, perhaps my soldering has improved since the last time I tried, I've had much better results with perfboard this time around!

I kept the board clean, was meticulous with keeping my iron tinned etc, had all my components and jumper wires prepared in advance and the board was well planned out on paper first.

I also found desolder braid more effective than a desolder pump for correcting mistakes. The easiest arrangement I found for soldering legs was to have the leg pointing straight up and to pull the iron up away from the board rather than to the side (which would typically run the solder further than I wanted). I also ran the blade of a modelling knife between the copper tracks to eliminate any possible shorts where adjacent tracks had solder points on the same column.

I'm learning about using the combination of a 74164/74165/MAX7219 to control a 8x8 button and LED matrix (as in Monome/Arduinome architecture). I had everything working on breadboard but realised it wouldn't be very robust so decided to move it on to perfboard.

Finished the 74164/74165 circuit last night and it worked first time. Hurrah!

Jim

9

Keep your soldering iron's tip nice and pointy also helps. Of course, keep some soldering wick around also makes it easy when soldering on perf boards.

10

My first experience was also a pain.
I got better the second time (UM, I mean...day)
But still crappy looking with lots of wires and potentional shorts. (still trying to learn how to make jumper wire)