I bought the MPJA 9616PS power supply about six months ago, and have been very happy with it. The other day, though, I was using it to charge a lead acid battery... and I plugged the battery in backwards. Feeding all that current through the power supply didn't do it any good. It looks like R6 took most of the punishment.
So... if you happen to own the same model, would you mind opening up yours and telling me what R6 was? Based on the lack of debris, I'm tempted to think it's just a jumper rather than a resistor with a nonzero value. But I'm hesitant to just stick a wire in there and power it up.
Some day I'm going to learn about using fuses...
I don't own one so I can't help, but why not call the company… they might know/check for you!
Sadly, they haven't provided the info. I suspect they just stock the power supply and re-badge it. Maybe someone knows an equivalent model number from a different manufacturer? It's a 0-30V, 0-3A power supply but it's not the Mastech / Kaito HY 3003D or the Sako SK1730SL1-5A.
Showing some more pictures would probably help identifying the PSU.
If there are any markings on the PCB besides component designations, that could also be helpful.
Good thinking! Here's a picture of the power supply:
Additional pictures are here:
As for markings - there aren't a lot. The main board has "SH52683R", and the controls board (where the knobs are) has "QJE7820.1010V1.1", but no names or other info that might point to the manufacturer.
Thanks for all the good suggestions!
oh I have the 5 amp version from http://www.circuitspecialists.com/
I cant right this second but I can pop it open sometime this week
I actually paid 2 dollars less for the 5 amp version on the site above, and got a free set of needle nose pliers, if anyone is looking
Thanks, Osgeld! I'll modify the title of this post for posterity, and look forward to hearing what your value for R6 is. Hopefully it's the same for the CSI3003SM as the CSI3005SM - at the very least, now I know a place to pick up a replacement supply cheaper!
well bad news
mine has a slightly different looking board, and R6 is a big beefy shunt curled up ... so even if your R6 is a shunt its going to be very hard to find the material and exact resistance that it was
and if it wasnt a shunt (which it looks pretty thin for a 3 amp shunt) then I dunno
Hmm... measuring the resistance of the wire I've got left doesn't yield much info either. I guess I'll just have to grab some wire, stuff it in there and see what happens.
Today I replaced the existing lead in there (which was 20 gauge wire) with some 22 gauge hookup wire I had on hand. So far so good - the voltage seems close.
I don't think I quite trust the current anymore... at rest the meter's reading about 0.2 A rather than 0. I'm not sure if that has to do with my choice of R6 or with something else I stressed when I pushed 13.8 V through there backwards.
At any rate, I have a power supply again, even if it's a little degraded. Thanks to everyone for your thoughts/ideas!
If the burnt part was a shunt to measure the current, then you will be off with those measurements.
Maybe you could connect some different parts of which you know what current they take and see what is indicated.
Then you know how far off the indicated current is.
and then you might be able to offset it using the trimpots on the control ocb
Thanks, I'll give those ideas a try. I've also noticed a suspiciously bulging capacitor pretty close to R6 - that might also have suffered in the event. Once I get a replacement, I'll see if that helps things.
I know this is an old thread but R6 "is" just a jumper but apparently does have a purpose for it's shape.
I'm surprised that it didn't blow a diode or two...............or something else in the process.
I was able to get some info from the company on another issue concerning the indicated current output, it was indicating 40mA too high and I needed to know how to adjust the displayed current. They give me the info I needed.
I saw the odd shaped jumper and wondered if it was something different, they did say that it was just a jumper but apparently the shape was to gain the length of wire they had in their design and also had something to do with it being close to the inductor next to it. Not sure really but that's what they said.
Hope this helps someone who has had the same issue.