Solvent for header pins

I have been trying to glue/attach header pins to either ABS or Acrylic plastic cases.

So far I have used: Epoxy, DCM, MEK, SuperGlue, E6000, Hot glue and Acetone.
Nothing so far works well as the header just comes off with slight pressure.

I tried using heat welding but it makes a real mess.

If you leave the header plastic in any of the solvents, they do not attack the header plastic in any way.

It is almost as if the header plastic is impervious to gluing.
Almost as if it was Bakelite.

Does anyone have a suggestion what to try to attach 'header plastic' to ABS or Acrylic?

From looking at a couple datasheets for common headers, it seems the plastic might be nylon. That fits with the solvent resistance you discovered.

Scratch both surfaces with sandpaper, start with crazy glue, than others. Don't forget plumber abs glue.

https://www.google.ca/search?rlz=1C1NCHB_en&biw=1440&bih=744&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=aGn6WpUvhLuPBKPGloAH&q=plumber+abs+glue&oq=plumber+abs+glue&gs_l=img.3...116777.121732.0.122967.8.8.0.0.0.0.108.586.7j1.8.0....0...1c.1.64.img..0.2.186...0i8i7i30k1.0.c4xWNVsyy2E

For joining dupont pin housings together to make double rows (I guess it is a similar material) I take the gloss off the mating surfaces with sand paper and use a contact adhesive. Put a thin layer on both surfaces, wait for the solvent to evaporate and bring the surfaces together.

The problem with those headers is that the contact area is relatively small and there is considerable potential leverage from the length of the pins which could put a lot of pressure on the joint.

You've ruled out soldering the pins to a fragment of prototype board or similar and gluing that ?

Thanks guys.

You’ve ruled out soldering the pins to a fragment of prototype board or similar and gluing that ?

Yes that is a good option!
I was trying to see if the header plastic could be bonded directly.

I am trying to create a mounting system for SMD LEDs to the inside surface of a plastic case.
There would be a small 1/16" hole in the case to let the SMD LED light go through.
This would replace bulkier T1 3/4 LED mounting hardware.

DuPont header cables were going to bring the signal to the LED and series resistor pair.
Similar to these but using right angle headers instead of machine pins.

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Sandpaper and Super Glue.
After sanding don’t touch the surface with anything - dont wipe.
If its not working I will ask some questions.

Many electronics plastics are glass-filled, ie a mix of polymer and powdered glass, which improves thermal
conductivity, increases the softening/melting point, and is stronger. Roughing the surface should allow
any glue that works with glass to get a key.

Cheaper stuff doesn't use glass filled plastic and melts really readily on soldering, and may not be gluable.

The clear plastic looks like Styrene.
Thanks @Ted.
Super glue does give one of the best results.

I have not tried to use an accelerator yet with SG. (IPA or backing-powder solution or chlorine).

I ordered some Loctite super glue with accelerator, which is supposed to be good for hard to glue plastics.
Will report back with the results after I try it.

Surface preparation is very important when trying this.

@MarkT
Yes, I coming to this conclusion.

Don't adjust the parts after applying the glue, Super/Crazy .... glue dont like that.

ted:
Don't adjust the parts after applying the glue, Super/Crazy .... glue dont like that.

Yes I agree.