I'm trying to get a handle on the circuit design featured on this site about the spark igniter. They've got some broad strokes info, but I'm hitting a wall with the specifics, like where the 16 chord output is heading and how that ties into the system they're talking about.
They're working with a Rcexl CDI electronic ignition box that's built for a 1/4-32 plug, but that box isn't set up with 16 outputs. Also, the part about relays went over my head. Do I even need to bother with those if all I want is to flip the spark igniter on and off?
I know this is an Arduino form and many may not be able to help with this question, but help with the designations of the pinouts and why those specific pinouts were chosen would be super helpful.
I want to do exactly what the website is doing - create a spark igniter that I can use multiple times to ignite a rocket. I just can follow what the website is doing well.
Also please see the website for more info that I linked in the original post. it has this image which is the only thing that helps in identifying along with this small passage: A 12V battery provides power to the solenoids and Rcexl ignition box, although this is stepped down to 9V, as Rcexl recommend 12V max I decided to be on the safe side. The sensors and relay shield are powered from the 5V port on the arduino. This goes out to a 16 port plug and into the wiring loom to the respective parts. At the moment the Arduino requires the USB for power and communication, in the future I’ll convert this to RF to make it wireless.
Wait, so I am still confused about the relays - what exactly is the person using them for.
And say that I do want to modulate the pulses and use an Arduino - would this mean that I connect it to the tachometer and send my pwm pulses there?
I am also getting the jist now after reading the website over a couple more times, it seems like the person is using all the other things in that "16-port plug" for the sensors that they have as oppose to it having anything to do with the spark igniter - does that mean that the relays also just have to do with the valves and not the igniter -> am I correct in saying this?
I believe so. The tachometer seems to need a ground and a red power cable which I would be sending a PWM voltage fluctuation to at the desired frequency. Is this the correct interpretation or do you believe that it might have a different operating setup?
I don't thing it needs a logic level converter as the original website only downshifted the voltage to a safe operating regime for the device.
No, the white wire need to be switched to black wire (ground)
Do not apply a voltage to any of the wires.
Do not connect anything to the red wire.
The safest way to do it is to use an optoisolator like a FOD817D
When talking about the tachometer's red and black wires are those just outputting a signal to indicate frequency?
when you say white white wire, I do not see one in the diagram?
What exactly is the Opto-isolator doing? I searched online and it said - "Opto-isolators prevent high voltages from affecting the system receiving the signal." Do you mean that I should replace the LM2596 Power Module that I would use to downshift the 12V to 9V with the Opto-Isolator (the one I am using operates from 6V-12V which is why it contradicts the 4.8V to battery in the diagram)
also I realized I did not communicate this well, but I need it to have an operating spark frequency of, at minimum, 3/second. I thought I would be able to receive this via the tachometer, but I think you mention that my interpretation is incorrect? - if so, how would I achieve this - would I fluctuate the voltage where the diagram says "4.8V" (the one I am using operates from 6V-12V)
When talking about the tachometer's red and black wires are those just outputting a signal to indicate frequency?
I would think so but there is no explanation in the manual about voltage or polarity.
when you say white wire, I do not see one in the diagram?
It is shown in figure VI.) Timing: (User manual 2.0)
Do you mean that I should replace the LM2596 Power Module that I would use to downshift the 12V to 9V with the Opto-Isolator (the one I am using operates from 6V-12V which is why it contradicts the 4.8V to battery in the diagram)
No, you still need the LM2596. See the diagram below for the opto connections.
Also I realized I did not communicate this well, but I need it to have an operating spark frequency of, at minimum, 3/second. I thought I would be able to receive this via the tachometer, but I think you mention that my interpretation is incorrect? - if so, how would I achieve this - would I fluctuate the voltage where the diagram says "4.8V" (the one I am using operates from 6V-12V)
If you use an Arduino Uno you would control the frequency with the code you write. It would output a signal (PinX) to the opto that you connect to the engine sensor cable white and black wire.
