Yes that is what I said. However I also said that they are only second order filters so their is a bit more overlap. Get the data sheet of the device and look at the graph of the filters.
I used two chips but used one for the left hand and the other for the right hand stereo channel. I used a raspberry Pi for this project, with an Arduino you just need to use 5V and you don't need the A/D converter. It is built into the Arduino. And you have the neopixel strips for a display.
Then I also made this with the same hardware
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Grumpy_Mike:
Yes that is what I said. However I also said that they are only second order filters so their is a bit more overlap. Get the data sheet of the device and look at the graph of the filters.
I used two chips but used one for the left hand and the other for the right hand stereo channel. I used a raspberry Pi for this project, with an Arduino you just need to use 5V and you don't need the A/D converter. It is built into the Arduino. And you have the neopixel strips for a display.
So let's see if I'm making the right assumption. I am going to need a cable similar to the picture that's in the attachment. I need a wire for the MSSGEQ7 left Hand at Pin 5 and another wire for the MSGEQ7 right hand Pin 5. Is this correct? BTW, I'm still trying to figure out my capacitor and resistors values for the equalizer chips. Still doing research.
No.
You can drive the Arduino with the 5V power supply used to drive the LEDs or have a separate power supply. However the ground of the power supply must be connected to the ground of the Arduino.
The MSGEQ7 has an analogue output that must be connected to an analogue input of the Arduino. Each chip to a different analogue input. There are other digital inputs to this chip and these must be connected to the Arduino however these can be common on the two chips.
After digging into the internet more and doing some more reading, I actually found a similar project. See link below:
The author/designer, Max's cool beans, created a Audio Spectrum analyzer using two MSGEQ7 chips. Using this project, I have finished my wiring schematic. (See attachment). The following items are shown in my schematic:
14 strips of LEDs. (7 for the left channel and 7 for the right channel with each strip having 20 LEDs)
Arduino Mega
MSGEQ7 - Qty 2
5VDC 10A AC/DC Power Converter (To Power the LEDs)
9 Capacitors (Different Values)
5 Resistors (Different Values)
3.5mm PCB Audio Jack
If you take a look at the project that Max's cool beans created, he only had 14 regular LEDs while I have 280 programmable LEDs. I have the following questions I'm still trying to answer:
How do I figure out my resistor & capacitor values that are interfacing with the MSGEQ7 chips? Of course they can't be the same as the similar project I mentioned. I am still reading up on how to do this.
The similar project uses multiple Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) pins to interface with the LEDs. 1 pin per LED, but since I have these programmable LED strips, do I only need to use one pin (PWM Pin 0) for my project?
Any help is greatly appreciated. The ball is rolling now
Grumpy_Mike:
You don't need any PWM outputs to drive a NeoPixel strip.
What R & C values are you looking to change?
So should I be using a Digital Pin to talk to the LED strips?
I was looking at the R & C values at Pins 1,5,6, & 8 on the MSGEQ7 chips, but I think the values that are called out int he spreadsheet should be fine. I assumed I had to play with these values....
So should I be using a Digital Pin to talk to the LED strips?
Yes, and a libiary to drive it. It is not the sort of thing you can program yourself.
It is only the R between Pin 1 and 8 you need to consider if you want to make the bands interleave. All other components should be left as they are for a 14 band system. You are best using a 180K fixed resistor in series with a 47K pot wired as a variable resistor, for one chip and leave the other at 200K. Adjust the pot until you get the correct overlap between any two bands. All the others will fall into place.
Grumpy_Mike:
Yes, and a libiary to drive it. It is not the sort of thing you can program yourself.
It is only the R between Pin 1 and 8 you need to consider if you want to make the bands interleave. All other components should be left as they are for a 14 band system. You are best using a 180K fixed resistor in series with a 47K pot wired as a variable resistor, for one chip and leave the other at 200K. Adjust the pot until you get the correct overlap between any two bands. All the others will fall into place.
That's right. I have to have a library. I'll use the NeoPixel library. I got my board today so I'll play with it.
Just to be sure, are you talking about the Resistor that's in parallel with the 33pF capacitor? I see why you are referencing Pin 8 and 1 because they both interfacing with VDD (5 V). I can do what you're mentioning . I'm guessing in order to see the correct overlap between any two bands, I have to see that in the output of my code, correct? Or what would be the way to verify this when I start playing with the pot?
are you talking about the Resistor that's in parallel with the 33pF capacitor?
No. I am talking about the resistor in series with the 33pF capacitor.
I have to see that in the output of my code,
Well that is what the LED strip does for you. You set your frequency generator to one of the the peaks of the none tuneable filter. Then move it half way to the next peak, and adjust the other EQU chip so the same output peaks.
Grumpy_Mike:
No. I am talking about the resistor in series with the 33pF capacitor.
Well that is what the LED strip does for you. You set your frequency generator to one of the the peaks of the none tuneable filter. Then move it half way to the next peak, and adjust the other EQU chip so the same output peaks.
Gotcha. Thanks Mike. You've been extremely helpful.
Circuit & Code are working correctly. Now it's time to constructing the housing for these LEDs. I recently bought a good size picture frame where I can tape down the LEDs strips into 14 bands using foam double side tape, run all the wiring in the back and then have the arduino board close by.
Had a question if anyone wants to put their two cents in:
These LEDs strips come with weatherproofing on them. Is it better to remove this or leave it on there when I start constructing my layout? I'm trying to decide what's best. Thoughts?
FYI:
If someone is interested in creating something similar, please direct message me. I can provide steps on what I did
Grumpy_Mike:
Well I would have got the type without the waterproofing as they are cheaper.
But if you are using them in a picture frame indoors, then I would take them out to get better cooling of the LEDs.
I was looking at Adafruit's website and they don't sell it without the weatherproofing. I'll see how difficult it is to take them out. If its too much hassle, I'll probably leave the weatherproofing on. The frame I have is not super enclosed so i'm not supper worried about cooling.
Welp...was doing some testing of my code tonight and noticed that the first LED wasn't lighting up on my strip. Ran into my first problem (bittersweet). Seems like I may have burned the first LED but I have a 1000 uF cap in parallel with the power rails on my 5VDC 10amp pwr supply and put a 470 ohm resistor in series on my data-in wire between the arduino and LED strip.
I have to look at the strip again to make sure I'm not seeing things but what could have cause my first LED to burn out? I followed the instruction from adafruit so I'm confused. I did do a continuity check between 5VAC and ground and of course I hear a small quick beep due to the caps charging but not an actual short.
The first LED is mainly working, because if it were not then none of the other LEDs would light up. This is because the LEDs regenerate the data signal and if the first one were not working then the signal would never reach the others.
That said the first led is vulnerable to the signal you put into it. That is part of the reasons you put a seriese resistor in the signal line. If the Arduino is powered and feeding into a strip that is not powered then that input looks like a diode connected to ground. Without a resistor that can cause the Arduino's output to burn it out. Even with a resistor it could damage it. What value did you use? Always power up the LED strip first.
Grumpy_Mike:
The first LED is mainly working, because if it were not then none of the other LEDs would light up. This is because the LEDs regenerate the data signal and if the first one were not working then the signal would never reach the others.
That said the first led is vulnerable to the signal you put into it. That is part of the reasons you put a seriese resistor in the signal line. If the Arduino is powered and feeding into a strip that is not powered then that input looks like a diode connected to ground. Without a resistor that can cause the Arduino's output to burn it out. Even with a resistor it could damage it. What value did you use? Always power up the LED strip first.
The morning after I posted my latest post, it came into mind that the LED wasn't dead since the others worked. So your response is dead on.
I used a 470ohm resistor for the data_in signal. I need to check my code (haven't got the chance). Glad I didn't burn it out. Learning as I go here. This is turning out into a great project
