stable power supply for ESP-01 module

I want to create a PCB using ( https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/qmUAAOSwiwVWT6y0/s-l64.jpg ) for flashing a ESP-01 module and other purposes.

I plan on using the circuit http://arduino-esp8266.readthedocs.io/en/latest/_images/ESP_improved_stability.png
That is the same circuit I have on a breadboard and using to flash the ESP-01 module.

The unknown for me is the 3.3 V power supply.

I currently have a 3.3V wall wart that I purchased on eBay. It is supposedly rated 3.3V/1A.
I have 200 uF capacitors across VCC and GND on a breadboard.
I am able to flash the ESP-01 on the breadboard.

However, monitoring the ESP-01 module TX pin it appears the watchdog timer seems to be resetting the module and in general the module seems to be "unstable" at power up.
The module is flashed with v2.0.0 of Espressif's AT firmware.

I am guessing that the power supply may be the culprit.

What should I do to provide a well-regulated power source for the ESP-01 ?

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I have succesfully used an Uno, powered from USB, to program ESP-12 modules.
I power the ESP-12 (~80mA) from the Uno’s 3.3volt pin (150mA max),
with a 470uF smoothing/buffer capacitor on the 3.3volt line to handle the short transmit peak currents (~400mA).
I first loaded a blank sketch (nothing in setup or loop) in the Uno, to stop the MCU talking to the USB<>serial chip,
and used the connection diagram in this guide.
Leo…

What do you use to power your ESP-12 modules once you have flashed them?

What would you recommend?

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I have had no issues with a plain old 1117-series reg (caps per datasheet - different companies' take on the 1117 need different caps) running from a 5v USB phone charger.

DrAzzy:
I have had no issues with a plain old 1117-series reg (caps per datasheet - different companies' take on the 1117 need different caps) running from a 5v USB phone charger.

Do you use a USB breakout board?
Or do you chop off the micro USB connector and solder directly to the PCB?

If I want to keep on using the 3.3V wall wart what would you recommend to stabilize its output?
470 uF capacitor as mentioned above?
Anything else?

I have successfully used an HT7333 on a LiPo over month (waking up once every hour). But a beefy cap behind it to deal with transmission spikes and it is fine. The HT7333 has extremely low dropout and also extremely low quiescent current.
If you power from the grid, you don't care about that, of course. Then go with the suggested 1117.
With 1A current capacity, supply power is not your issue.

Your circuit do not shows where LEAD is connected,
Separate 3.3V from LED load by resistor 500 ohm ? (add it before 3.3V, left corner on the circuit) , add 10uF capacitor, parallel to C1.

ieee488:
Do you use a USB breakout board?
Or do you chop off the micro USB connector and solder directly to the PCB?

If I want to keep on using the 3.3V wall wart what would you recommend to stabilize its output?
470 uF capacitor as mentioned above?
Anything else?

I would recommend against using the 3.3V wall wart. Having a higher voltage prime power with the regulator close to the ESP01 connector is a far superior approach.

If you insist on using the wall wart you want a low ESR bulk capacitor at the ESP01 end (e.g. tantalum), which is what should be done in any case. While this might work, one can never tell if behavioral oddities are a problem with one's code or the flakey power layout, so, again, I think this is a bad idea.

MrMark:
I would recommend against using the 3.3V wall wart. Having a higher voltage prime power with the regulator close to the ESP01 connector is a far superior approach.

If you insist on using the wall wart you want a low ESR bulk capacitor at the ESP01 end (e.g. tantalum), which is what should be done in any case. While this might work, one can never tell if behavioral oddities are a problem with one's code or the flakey power layout, so, again, I think this is a bad idea.

What capacity tantalum would you recommend?

ted:
Your circuit do not shows where LEAD is connected,
Separate 3.3V from LED load by resistor 500 ohm ? (add it before 3.3V, left corner on the circuit) , add 10uF capacitor, parallel to C1.

This question is about the LEAD.
I am seeking suggestion on what to use.
I am currently using a 3.3 V AC adapter aka wall wart.

I didn't read your first line with attention, I thought about LED flashing.
This link may be will answer your question, I have a discussion somewhere on forum about similar product, there was problem with the programing.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=ESP-01+module&rlz=1C1AFAB_enCA475&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=AtpUGcQihzIU0M%3A%2CREcc6kBFLEI1qM%2C_&usg=__xC5YiBu2Q-Zes-Bqi5Agu7Lv_Ys%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj7lKLevu7ZAhVF9IMKHVCvBwYQ9QEIgQEwAw#imgrc=AtpUGcQihzIU0M:

ted:
I didn't read your first line with attention, I thought about LED flashing.
This link may be will answer your question, I have a discussion somewhere on forum about similar product, there was problem with the programing.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=ESP-01+module&rlz=1C1AFAB_enCA475&tbm=isch&source=iu&ictx=1&fir=AtpUGcQihzIU0M%3A%2CREcc6kBFLEI1qM%2C_&usg=__xC5YiBu2Q-Zes-Bqi5Agu7Lv_Ys%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj7lKLevu7ZAhVF9IMKHVCvBwYQ9QEIgQEwAw#imgrc=AtpUGcQihzIU0M:

It seems that you are suggesting the same thing as Wawa above e.g. using the Arduino Uno as a power source.

I read your first post again.

  1. check the output of your power supply on oscilloscope, you need straight line - usually is not for that kind of power supply.
  2. use 5V bank battery + 3.3V voltage regulator

Try add mentioned capacitor maybe you get straight line.

I would NOT connect an ESP-01 as shown in the link of post#10.

  1. the 3.3volt pin can't supply the ~400mA transmit pulses, so you have dips in the supply.
  2. they are shoving 5volt TTL from the TX/RX pins up it's ass.
    Leo..

Wawa:
I would NOT connect an ESP-01 as shown in the link of post#10.

  1. the 3.3volt pin can't supply the ~400mA transmit pulses, so you have dips in the supply.
  2. they are shoving 5volt TTL from the TX/RX pins up it's ass.
    Leo..

level shifter for the RX/TX pins
and
470uF capacitor on the 3.3 V ?

ieee488:
I currently have a 3.3V wall wart that I purchased on eBay. It is supposedly rated 3.3V/1A.
I have 200 uF capacitors across VCC and GND on a breadboard.

There is almost no limit for this capacitor, you can put up to 2000uF safely, after that probably you need 10- 20 ohm current limiting resistor. Without oscilloscope is hard to say that you have well filtered DC (when load is connected)

ted:
Without oscilloscope is hard to say that you have well filtered DC (when load is connected)

The cable resistance of the wall wart may be problem.