Stuck on an Efficient Way to Create an Arduino Checkerboard

I want to make a checkerboard(board game)that is hooked up to a display screen with live updates of the checkers location. This is my first project and first experience with an Arduino so I apologize in advance if I say something that's ignorant or plain stupid.

I was thinking of having an Arduino connected to a strain gauge load cell that weighs the checkers piece, and having the display screen work based on the output of the weight. But, I realized this idea was stupid, because

  1. I would need a load cell for every square on the checkerboard to account for every piece. That's 64 load cells.

  2. It would be too large for a checkers board.

I've been all over Google searching for a better option and have found nothing. So, is there something better for what I want to create?

Edit: New idea, what about pushbuttons that triggers an electric signal coded to outputs something to a display screen? Would this work?

What about reed switches operated by a magnet in the base of each game piece?

If I recall correctly, you have only 4 different pieces in checker. Black, white, pawns and queens. Have the pieces interact with the board in 4 different ways (resistance or capacitance).

(I will again mention that I have not had much experience in electricity and arduino things, so sorry in advance if I understood you wrong)

I think I get what you're saying! So, each board piece type is custom-made to resist/capacitate a certain value, right?

If so, will any method of interaction with the board work, like Reed switches as mentioned by dannable?

Restok:
So, each board piece type is custom-made to resist/capacitate a certain value, right?

Why do you think that is necessary?

dannable:
Why do you think that is necessary?

I thought it would be required to differentiate the pawn pieces from the two sides and the king pieces.

dannable:
Why do you think that is necessary?

Wait, different magnetic fields can trigger reactions to a Reed switch right? If so, I guess there is no need for resistors.

Clearly, a few wikipedia article isn't enough for me to understand this thing.

If you know where all the pieces are to start with, if one square becomes vacant and another occupied then it would seem logical that the piece has moved?

The only time you would even need to know the absolute positions of every piece is if somebody kicks the board in the air?

In the pieces, 'North' magnets for one side, 'South' for the other. One each north and south-sensing Hall switch under each of the 32 available spaces. It remains to be seen whether a King could determined by sensing the field strength.

dannable:
If you know where all the pieces are to start with, if one square becomes vacant and another occupied then it would seem logical that the piece has moved?

The only time you would even need to know the absolute positions of every piece is if somebody kicks the board in the air?

Good point.

Another question, wouldn't the magnetic fields interfere with other Reed switches if it's close enough? Or can one single switch do the job?

Restok:
Another question, wouldn't the magnetic fields interfere with other Reed switches if it's close enough? Or can one single switch do the job?

Some experimentation may be involved! Depends on board thickness, strength of magnets...

Holy moly.

64 Reed switches, averaging $1.50 for every one + magnets, checkerboard, arduino, freelancer for the code, this project might go over $200.

Erm... Affordable, but something I'd rather not do for a slightly cooler board game setup.
...Any cheaper ways to go about it?

Ok I have an idea. It's a lot more work but a lot cheaper. If you put a small circle Of something conductive like tin foil on the underside of the black pieces in the middle, and you put a conductive ring around the red pieces. On the actual board you can have pins near the edge of each square, and pins near the middle of each square. Program the pins together, when they connect they will show a 1 in the code. If the pins in the middle show a 1 it's a black piece, if the pins near the outside show a 1 it's a red piece and each piece that moves will show a 0 where it was and a 1 where it is now. Therefore you can track all the pieces and know whether their red or black

NeilSawhney:
Ok I have an idea. It's a lot more work but a lot cheaper. If you put a small circle Of something conductive like tin foil on the underside of the black pieces in the middle, and you put a conductive ring around the red pieces. On the actual board you can have pins near the edge of each square, and pins near the middle of each square. Program the pins together, when they connect they will show a 1 in the code. If the pins in the middle show a 1 it's a black piece, if the pins near the outside show a 1 it's a red piece and each piece that moves will show a 0 where it was and a 1 where it is now. Therefore you can track all the pieces and know whether their red or black

Uh, did I mention I was very technologically incapable?

So the checkers piece will be placed on the pin that is corresponding to the color, I think I get that. The set up of the pins though...

That sounds does like a ton of trouble.

I had a quick scan of everyone's favourite auction site and, for instance, you can get 100 7mm reed switches for $17.90, delivered. Enough to throw any failures. Or if you want a slightly more complex, solid state job, look at hall effect switches.

Your are going to have to read the state of the switches, probably using 74HC165. I'll let you decide of you can cope with the level of technology!

Woah. I can certainly deal with that price.

I'll look into more sources. Thanks!

Just a thought. What about a photo diode setup? White pieces will reflect the IR light but black wouldn't.

Restok:
Uh, did I mention I was very technologically incapable?

So the checkers piece will be placed on the pin that is corresponding to the color, I think I get that. The set up of the pins though...

That sounds does like a ton of trouble.

sorry i took so long but its very simple. 1 wire of each set of pins connects to form one huge cable and they all connect to ground. for the other pin in the pair, each one goes to a different pin. thats all. it will use a lot of pins but so will any other option and all you need is wire which is cheap, and maybe a shield to give u more pins

but so will any other option

No. A raspberry Pi at $35, a USB camera say $10 and openCV software ( free ).

Grumpy_Mike:
No. A raspberry Pi at $35, a USB camera say $10 and openCV software ( free ).

true but he said he's not very technologically capable, not saying he can't figure it out but its definitely a lot less simple. And still more expensive. Although it would definitely be neater