I'm having trouble with the circuit I'm building here. It works on solderless breadboard. Not so much on the finalized protoboard I am trying to make.
picture of actual circuit
picture of back. Forgive the sloppiness.
Operation: pinx is set to high and that flows to the LL transistor allowing for current to flow through and power the voltage booster which in turn powers the device. Unfortunately it doesn't seem to work on this board.
I tested the voltage booster itself by touching leads from the power supply directly to the inputs. Its led lit up properly which it did not do in normal operation of the protoboard but not enough to power the device. In the breadboard the led of the booster lit up and the booster powered the device.
THe power supply properly lights up an led and I've used it to power the arduino.
I measured the resistance between all teh connections save the ones through the transistor itself. All were near 0 or the value of the resistor in between.
I measured voltage via plugging in the multimeter into the positive input and touching the other lead to various points and I found a voltage of 8.75 throughout. Input source is actually 7.5 volts approx not 9V in the figure.
I tried measuring current. for the pinx to transistor wire there was a definite signal from the arduino but it seemed extremely low. The led I put in lit up very dimly. When I tried to measure it I only got brief pulses of .001 on the 2m and 0.1 on the 200u current settings. When I measured the current across the negative input wire there was no current I could detect.
Is there any problem you can figure from this information? Is there any further tests I can do if its still not clear what the problem is?
I am very confused by your schematic, it is better if you draw it with the ground at the bottom, and the voltage booster as a 'load'.
Are the wires soldered to the voltage booster ? or only to the pcb that is under it ?
After following the wires in the schematic and the photo, I can not see any other problem.
Caltoa:
Are the wires soldered to the voltage booster ? or only to the pcb that is under it ?
After following the wires in the schematic and the photo, I can not see any other problem.
That's what I came up with too. Here's a pic for the OP. OP, you need to solder these four connections (see the attached file).
And at the risk of sounding critical, you need to do some practice soldering before you try to solder on your board.
I tried measuring current. for the pinx to transistor wire there was a definite signal from the arduino but it seemed extremely low. The led I put in lit up very dimly.
Sounds like you misconfigured digital pin on arduino, it has to be OUTPUT.
I am very confused by your schematic, it is better if you draw it with the ground at the bottom, and the voltage booster as a 'load'.
Are the wires soldered to the voltage booster ? or only to the pcb that is under it ?
After following the wires in the schematic and the photo, I can not see any other problem.
Hi, I have used those type of boards before and your soldering is showing a major problem with them, the copper has oxidized so most of the resin core in the solder is wasted in breaking it down.
A tip is with all copper strip board is to clean the copper first before soldering, I have used a steelwool pad, or an abrasive cleaning powder/cream. Cream cleaners for kitchen surfaces is probably the best, just dry the board out after rinsing.
I have used hair dryers, or just kitchen paper wipes.
You will then find with sparkling copper, when you apply the tip to heat the joint, the heat flows better,
When you then apply the solder, with the more even heat and clean surface it will flow really easy.
This means less tip contact time.
I find most beginners are afraid of too much heat, which these days is not easy to do with temp control irons.
I have found many beginners becoming frustrated over their soldering skill, only to have their attitude reversed by taking the time to clean the copper surface.
In my field, the product does not sit around out of its packaging for to long to cause oxide problems, but in the home enthusiast environment it can be different.
TomGeorge:
In my field, the product does not sit around out of its packaging for to long to cause oxide problems, but in the home enthusiast environment it can be different.
Tom......
I built a battery powered 24VDC power supply last weekend for a guy here at work so he could take flow measurements on the robots without having to drag a cord behind him. The Rat Shack breadboard that I used didn't want to take solder even though I cleaned it up with steel wool first.
