Hello there,
I have just recently started a project which uses a remote control and Arduino Pro Mini's and i have made a PCB based off of some online source and i do not know what Pro Mini i should use in these PCB's if someone can reply with a amazon link to a Arduino Pro Mini Version 1, 2, or 3.
Here is the 3 versions of the PCB's I have attached them. Please respond fast so that i can continue with the project.
Just do a search for "Pro Mini" and keep looking until you find one with that pin layout. The four (V1) or two (V2, V3) pins on the left edge of the images are not on the original Pro Mini by SparkFun. So if you need those two or four pins, you'll need to find the Chinese derivative board that has this specific pin layout. It's extremely difficult to read the pin labels on that picture, but I do have a derivative board with what appears to be the same pin layout like your board designs V2/V3, so they are out there.
If you don't need those 2 or 4 pins, then you can use the official Pro Mini (but double check the pins just to be sure):
Go with the original for sure.
[u]https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11113[/u]
Don't forget an FTDI Basic to program it
There is not very much on the pro mini board.
One other option is to simply find a schematic and add the components directly to your PCB design. If you don’t need pins A6 and A7, you could even use a pdip version of the ATmega328p for ease of soldering.
The pro mini also has a 3.3volt variant.
I am unable (with that minuscule image) to pick the difference between your "V2" and "V3" designs, and none of the three match the original Pro Mini as cited. Can you explain?
You really do need to explain just what functions you require.
I always advise that it is simpler and cheaper to use the Pro Mini rather than attempting to inventory the parts for your own board. But you most likely do not need the indicator LEDs and certainly will not want the regulator.
Paul__B:
. . .
I always advise that it is simpler and cheaper to use the Pro Mini rather than attempting to inventory the parts for your own board. But you most likely do not need the indicator LEDs and certainly will not want the regulator.
Well, the OP has already hit the first problem of incorporating a Pro Mini into his board design. That is that there is a confusing variety of different pinouts, especially if he starts looking at near clones. Plus the risk of getting one with rough clone of the ATmega328p chip. I don't like the Pro Mini anyway because of the badly designed I2C header..
Further, depending on what he is doing, he may get away with the raw ATmega328P-XXX chip and a couple of decoupling capacitors (if he is prepared to live with the internal oscillator 8MHz and internal reset pull up resistor).
But I do agree that it would be useful to know what he is doing. It does look at least like he is using I2C because I see tracks running to those strangely offset pins.
Ok thanks for the information i will use the sparkfun one and which version of PCB would it go onto the V1?
And also would something like this work for the Arduino Pro Mini:
marktheprogrammer:
Ok thanks for the information i will use the sparkfun one and which version of PCB would it go onto the V1?
It all depends on your circuit. The original Pro Mini is physically capable of making the connections to all but the 4 pins on the left side of the V1 image. So the question is whether your circuit requires those pins.
If you made the PCB, then I'm certain you know the answer to that.
marktheprogrammer:
And also would something like this work for the Arduino Pro Mini:
https://www.amazon.com/TongluraAtmega328-ATMEGA328-16MHz-Arduino-5V-18V/dp/B07L7LBJGN/ref=sr_1_20?dchild=1&keywords=Arduino+Pro+Mini+328+5V+16M&qid=1604504328&sr=8-20
That looks like the correct board for V1. But make sure to carefully check the pin numbers match just to be sure.
Oh the 4 pins are actually the NRF24LO1 transmitter that is a separate component but thanks
I don't think you're understanding what I mean by "the 4 pins on the left side of the V1 image". These:
The NRF24LO1 surely is connecting to the 2x4 header at the top left of the image.
Oh i thought you meant the pins at the very top right
Very top left