Hello masters of Arduino, 
I have the following thermal actuator that is controlling the underfloor heating circuit: Plumbing, heating and cooling solutions | Uponor
The product has the following characteristics:
I searched the forum for 220V actuators controlled by Arduino but probably I missed the right article. I kindly ask your help on what I have to do in order to open/close this actuator via Arduino.
Thank you,
Catalin
How is this device actuated? - Scotty
The device is actuated by an Uponor controller. Actually this is my issue: the controller has no interface to be managed so I need to manage the actuators separately.
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Here are some Uponor information on how the actuator is wired:
http://www.uponorpro.com/~/media/Extranet/Files/manuals/MVA_ActuatorConv_IS_H469_10132.aspx?sc_lang=en&version=100420131127
On the specifications is written that "Closes when idle" and "3min to open" and "2W" ... so I believe that needs power to stay open. Now, the maximum "opening" I believe is done by Imax = 250mA...
I directly plug in the actuator in the 220v socket but I didn't notice anything.
These are my presumptions... I have no experience with this and that's why I need your help.
I found this information. The valve is operated by 24vac. Simplest would be to purchase a relay driver board such as this (wait from China most likely significant). You'll need to find a 220vac to 24vac transformer or a 110vac to 24vac transformer. The 220 vac transformer primary leads are connected to 220vac to get 24vac on the secondary leads. In the case of the 110vac transformer, the primary leads would get connected one lead to one of the 220vac legs and the other lead to the neutral lead to attain the 24vac on the secondary leads. Get some help with handling these higher voltages if you are not experienced in handling them. They can be killers and causes of injury if not handled properly. The 1120vac to 24vac transformer can probably be found at a local home center. I believe many household HVAC system thermostats run on 24vac and replacement transformers may be available there.
You could use an output of the arduino to the input of the relay driver board and the relay would switch the 24vac to the actuator.
Instead of a relay, I would use a small triac to control the valve. Connect the cathode to ground, anode to one side of the valve, other side of the valve to one side of the 24VAC from the transformer, and other side of the 24V from the transformer to ground. The triac can be driven direct from an Arduino output via a series resistor. You don't need isolation because the transformer already provides that (although you can also get opto triacs capable of switching 0.9A, more than enough for your 0.23A valve).
colateral:
I directly plug in the actuator in the 220v socket but I didn't notice anything.
Not even smoke?
The unit is for 230 V ac operation.
From the website:
Uponor Actuator 230V St.Steel Manifold
230 V, with open/closed indicator, suitable for use with Uponor stainless steel manifolds. Closes when idle.
With all-round shower protection (IP 54).
Suitable for operation at ambient temperature of up to 60°C.
Threaded connector M 30 x 1.5 mm FT.
Height: 56 mm
I agree with dc42 in that a triac is the way to go, however since it's mains you will need to use an opto as well.
The MOC3041 also has a zero crossing detector built in which is very advantageous.
I have attached a possible circuit below but keep in mind that if the load is very inductive, first consult the following articles:
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/an/AN/AN-3003.pdf
UnoDueTre:
I agree with dc42 in that a triac is the way to go, however since it's mains you will need to use an opto as well.
The MOC3041 also has a zero crossing detector built in which is very advantageous.
I have attached a possible circuit below but keep in mind that if the load is very inductive, first consult the following articles:
If it requires 240VAC to operate, then yes of course, it requires isolation. However, a zero-crossing opto triac will not work well with an inductive load, which I suspect this valve is. I suggest a VO2223 or VO2223A, which is a power opto triac capable of switching up to 0.9A directly (as opposed to just driving another triac).
dc42:
However, a zero-crossing opto triac will not work well with an inductive load, which I suspect this valve is. I suggest a VO2223 or VO2223A, which is a power opto triac capable of switching up to 0.9A directly (as opposed to just driving another triac).
Agree 100%, hence my posting links to those two articles.
Thank you very much for your time and answers .... I apology also for my late answer.
I confirm you that the valve is for 230V (not 24VAC) and after I plugged in into the electrical socket was no smoke :))) ...
I will build the above schema with VO2223A (instead of MOC3041.) + BTA-06400 triac.... and see how is working.
I need to multiply this schema for 19 f (19 valves).... all controlled by an Arduino Mega board. So in the final I will have one big board with 19 packages (VO2223 + triacks, rezistors etc..) + arduino.
My concern is that I will deal with 19 (220V) connections and this is quite scarring.
How should I reinforce these 220V connections + links on this big board in order to resists on this higher voltage? I mean to avoid burning these links/connections in time.
colateral:
I will build the above schema with VO2223A (instead of MOC3041.) + BTA-06400 triac.... and see how is working.
If you are using the VO2223A then you don't need the BTA-06400, because the 200mA current draw of the actuator is below the 0.9A rating of the VO2223A (that's why I suggested VO2223A).
colateral:
My concern is that I will deal with 19 (220V) connections and this is quite scarring.
How should I reinforce these 220V connections + links on this big board in order to resists on this higher voltage? I mean to avoid burning these links/connections in time.
You are right to be scared. Here are some suggestions:
Use a fuse on the mains input to the board to guard against shorts. Your total current draw with all valves actuated is 3.8A, so a 5A fuse would be OK. Consider adding a 250mA or 500mA fuse in series with each VO2223A mains input as well (this is mainly to guard against shorts in the wiring to the actuators). You can get fuses that solder directly to the PCB and so don't take up much space.
Keep the mains wiring at one end of the board, and the low voltage stuff at the other end. Your ground plane should be under the low voltage stuff only. The VO2223As will be in the middle.
Read about creepage standards for PCBs to determine the minimum distance you need between the mains and non-mains circuitry, and whether you need any slots.
You could use stripboard to prototype one channel, but you should completely remove all of the copper strip between the two sides of the VO2223A instead of just cutting one hole in the copper. Also remove the copper strips adjacent to each strip that carries mains voltage.
EDIT: updated suggestions.
Thank you dc42 for your suggestions.
I will proceed....