Understanding a Tubular Solenoid 12V 10W

Hi there,
I am using this tubular Soleoid which works at 12V 10W. It is supposed to have 22.5N which I am using to push a small plastic spray bottle.

For the testing I am using a Bench Power Supply and I am probably doing something wrong as the solenoid works well (controlled by a relay), but it's not very strong, considering 1Kg force = 9.80665 Newtons, 22.5 should be enough to squeeze the bottle. It does, but just about.

Can I crank up the voltage? So far I am stuck at 12V-14V, I see that the amps don't go beyond 0.5.
Is there any way I can boost it a bit without damaging it?
From the Datasheet (see pages 98-99)

I forgot to add.... from the Datasheet, it looks like it can be powered beyond the 12V...

The data is on pages 110-111, not 98-99, the part number is 195227-228, which means AWG28 winding
is the correct one (19.2 ohm), and that has the following voltage ratings for various duty cycles:

``````duty    voltage   current  power
100%   13.8     0.72    9.9
50%    19.6     1.02    20.0
25%    28       1.45    40.8
10%    44       2.29    100
``````

All solenoids have a range of ratings for different duty cycles. Note that there is also a time
constant involved, so 10% duty cycle might be OK for 1 second on, 9 seconds off, but
not for 1 minute on, 9 minutes off. Note the max on time values in that table...

Great!
Thank you so much!
I was indeed looking at the wrong page :o and thence for explaining the duty cycle, it makes perfect sense!

It's all about how hot the solenoid gets. Too high a voltage (and current -- it's an Ohm's Law kind of thing) then it starts to melt the insulation on the wire inside it, so they rate it at 12V since they know the resistance of the wire coil inside will limit it to the appropriate ~.72A.

In summary, while you're testing make sure you use your fingers and feel the solenoid to ensure it's not getting so hot that you can't hold your fingers on it (~130F).

Thank you Chagrin, the application I am building will require to solenoid to fire for a second every ten minutes or so, this should give it plenty of time to recover. I did some testing yesterday and the solenoid wasn't getting hot. It feels good to learn about the whole mechanism, thanks so much for your help!

One second every ten minutes, try 24V rather than 12

Thanks! At the moment I am trying 28V, will lower it to 24V

If you're only doing one second evry 10 minutes then you will be quite safe going to around 50 volts.
Bear in mind the problems of inductive spike when you de-energise and the need for a reverse biased diode that must be rated to carry at least the same current as the solenoid and several times the voltage that you do actually power it with.

What is the rating of your power supply???

1/ Haven't we been here before? - thought you'd solved the problem.....

2/ You can get in many supermarkets or home stores air freshener gadgets which do exactly this - why not just buy one?

regards

Allqn

Hi Mohit-Singh, I am using a Bench Power Supply, 30V 5A, currently powering the solenoid with 28V in order to get a good push. Your is an interesting question as I am in the process of having to purchase a DC Power Adapter in order to power the installation. I was looking at 24 to 28V max 2A.

Thanks Jack for your help, I thought that by using external relay blocks I was protected against inductive spikes.
Do you think I should still add something between the solenoids and the relays to help against this?

Hi Allan, I think I have found the solution, I changed solenoids and had some problem understanding the data sheet, with regards to air fresheners, I did some testing and prototypes; the ones I built aren't too reliable and don't work with custom essences (albeit they say they do). And those that actually do, are either too bulky or expensive as I need a few, not just one.

The solenoids are quite effective in this respect and produce quite a dramatic effect when they push the bottle to make it spray.