Don't worry, everything (the two breakout flex board and the display) and all is looking well. Now I have ordered the Arduino due and the protoshield just waiting on instructions to order the caps and resistors. Have a nice day,
Thomas
david_prentice:
@zinragina,I hope you are good at 0.3mm pitch connectors. The RPi does not have enough GPIO for 8080-8 parallel interface. The display in #0 has no access to IM# pins. So you will not be able to use SPI.
David.
I don't plan on using SPI. From my understanding of page 8,9, and 15 of the display's datasheet. You need 8 pins for data and a pin each for chip select, read, write, data/command, reset, and an optional tearing effect for a total of 16 pins (specifically in the RPi case 32 pins because each color of RGB has it's own pin source: Raspberry Pi Documentation - Raspberry Pi hardware)
I'm not opposed to buying a 3.3v arduino in the final product, but I want to prototype as quickly as possible when these parts eventually come in.
zinragina:
I don't plan on using SPI. From my understanding of page 8,9, and 15 of the display's datasheet. You need 8 pins for data and a pin each for chip select, read, write, data/command, reset, and an optional tearing effect for a total of 16 pins (specifically in the RPi case 32 pins because each color of RGB has it's own pin source: Raspberry Pi Documentation - Raspberry Pi hardware)I'm not opposed to buying a 3.3v arduino in the final product, but I want to prototype as quickly as possible when these parts eventually come in.
I was originaly planning to use a Raspberry Pi like you say and still think it is the better option for an end product but the threads that I looked at suggested you needed to write a driver for it and my limited experiences of python told me not to do that. I think you could use an existing driver but would need heavy tinkering.
For David,
I have on my desk all the required parts and 'think' I need the capacitors and resistors on page 8. Shall I go ahead and order those from RS and attempt to wire them up on proto? Many Thanks,
Thoms
Okay, everything has now arrived. Now I need a wiring diagram. I assume I will first wire the diagram on page 8 but then will need some more advice. Thanks,
Thomas
I presume that you have got an adapter from #21, a protoshield from #27, and a Due, M0 or Zero Arduino.
- Drill two holes to fix the adapter onto the protoshield via the two mounting holes on the Adapter.
- Fix with bolts and spacers.
- solder the components from 7. Application Circuit on page 8 of the TP241MC01G document.
- solder connecting wires from the numbered pins on the Adapter to the appropriate Arduino pins. e.g. pin #19 (DB0) to #9 (LCD_D0) on the Protoshield. pin #21 (CSB) to #A3 on Protoshield.
- fine wire like 28G wire-wrap is easier to use than solid 22G single core. Do not use stranded.
- Wire neatly so you can see it clearly. Different colours are useful.
- Inspect all your soldered joints. Test continuity with a DMM.
- When the wiring is done, solder the headers. Either male strip or the extended female headers that came with the protoshield.
I would be much happier if you posted a photo of your components. Or PM me with your email / phone.
When this is all done, you can insert the tiny ribbon. Place some Black Card above the Adapter. Fold the OLED onto the Black "background". I suggest that you have some adhesive tape to keep everything secure.
Your "Custom Shield" will plug into your Due / Zero.
And I will post you some software.
I would find this a very fiddly project to assemble.
And any software that I write will be "blind".
You must be meticulous at every stage.
Did you get two Adapters?
David.
Hello, thank you for the detailed explanation. I got two adapters and would be happy to ship one to someone who was doing a similar project. I will post a picture here of the components laid out. I am using an arduino Due.
In stage 4, how do I know which connections on the output of the page 8 diagram I wire to the arduino pins? Unfortunately, one of the capacitors on page 8 was only available in SMD but i bought the largest and will continue as if it is TH. I will send a photo of the components and my current thoughts.
Again, thanks for all the information, I couldn't have done this project without the help.
Thomas
IMAGES:
I suggested Protoshields. They mate with your Due. They come with suitable header strip.
It is possible to bend pins from your protoboard but it is a bit fiddly. And the most important strategy in an "unknown" project is to be meticulous. You do not want to have mechanical difficulties when you have delicate components.
You appear to have some 5-ampere rectifier diodes and some high-wattage resistors.
I don't see Protoshield, header strip, single-core wire, ..., Schottky diode.
They are all available from UK mail order shops.
David.
I have a shot key diode but it is kinda enormous and assume its wrong. Could you recommend one? I have some single core wire and will order the proto shield. Also, are the resistors alright?
Many Thanks,
Thomas
EDIT;
as a side note, I cant seem to find any arduino Due protoshields in the UK. Will one for the mega be okay? Many Thanks,
Thomas
Either Uno or Mega Protoshield is fine.
125mW or 250mW resistors are suitable. Big ones are ok but take up more space and probably have heavier leads.
Diode type is important. I would expect something rated for 100mA or so. Types designed for 1A and higher have different characteristics.
Header strips both male and female are always useful. You have probably realised that I am trying to get you to make something that looks like an Arduino shield sandwich. Hold in one hand. One USB lead and no trailing wires.
David.
Okay, there on their way
Everything has arrived, ill start work on the proto board today.
Hello,
I'm really interested about this topic i'd also like to create my own HUD.
I'm really loking forward to this project and I hope it will work !
Yes. I'm currently working on the protoboard. If you live in the UK I can send you over a flex shield adapter.
VosemGov:
Yes. I'm currently working on the protoboard. If you live in the UK I can send you over a flex shield adapter.
Unfortunately I'm living in France but I can pay the shipping cost if you have a spare that you won't use !
So, I had run into a few problems with the wrong capacitors but its all sorted now with ceramic ones. I have done about 1/2 the soldering joins that don't go directly to the arduino. Ill keep you posted,
Thomas
Its all going well though currently on the schematic, I have been assuming r3 10, r2 10 are 10k. Is this correct? Thanks,
Thomas